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Posted: 5/29/2013 7:16:25 AM EDT
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I have to say, the SEARCH function on this site sucks.. I rarely can find what I'm looking for and often i get "no results".
I have swapped out the trigger components of my Ruger 10/22 and it runs like a dream. volquartzen trigger/hammer/sear components only - not the entire trigger assembly. I know that the trigger groups in each are completely different, but what can I expect? I am not familiar with all the terminology so be gentle..(or at least explain the terms you're using). I know overtravel (and have a set screw on my 10/22 that eliminates it... (I like that feature) I'm not sure what slack or pretravel are (my 10/22 trigger moves about 3/32 including release of the hammer and reset) will a geissele trigger give me what I want? (I know they're expensive, and I know everyone loves them that has one, but that really doesnt tell me what I should expect). this will be for a 20" flattop upper with 3-9X50 scope. I use also use the lower with one of my 16" carbine A2 style uppers, (if that matters) |
| Check out Geissele's web sight. There are many options that are all explained there. Their fully adjustable triggers come in three versions with differing trigger weights and are more expensive than the non-adjustable ones. If you want the ultimate in crisp, creep free triggers go with an adjustable version. If a trigger that breaks more like a fresh carrot than an icicle is acceptable then save some money and go with a non-adjustable version. The non-adjustable versions have fewer moving parts and, in my opinion, are better for defensive type rifles. The adjustable ones seem better suited for benchrest and prairie dog rigs. The included instructions are very easy to follow and very thorough. If you can run a hammer you can install one of these triggers. |
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I've been to the website and been through the selection guides, etc.
I'm not really looking for someone to tell me which one to get. I guess I'm looking for advice and an explanation as to why a 2 stage trigger is better than a single stage (which I assume is what I have on my ruger) on an AR. I'm also trying to determine if I'm interested in spending $220 or more on a trigger that will not give me exactly what I want. I dont have a trigger adjustment block so I would have to insert and remove the trigger each time I want to make an adjustment (I assume)... which im not really interested in doing either. |
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You really haven't said what you want. What is the rifle going to be used for? Home defense, three gun, prairie dogs, plinking? What do you want out of a trigger? Two stage triggers are used on national match rifles because the final pull weight must be 4.5 lbs. The first stage is set up with a pull weight of around 2.5 to 3 lbs. and the second stage is set with the remainder of the four pounds. This is easier to shoot accurately than just a straight 4 lb. pull. Other than that specific use I believe it is just personal preference as to wether you want a two stage or single stage trigger. As far as adjustment goes, as I said, it is hammer simple. Having done several, I don't recall ever having to install and remove one more than a couple of times. The adjustment set screws can be adjusted while the trigger is in the lower receiver. |
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I answered some of those questions in my original post.
I wont be using it for any official competitions, but I want to be able to put an "SPR type" upper on this lower so I can squeeze the accuracy out when I want it. otherwise, it will just be another multipurpose carbine use lower. I have an SBR that I'm waiting on the stamp for.. It sounds like I need to choose between single and two stage before i move forward. is my modified 10/22 considered a single stage? (if you can't answer, how can I give more information to help make the determination?) |
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I have the complete Volquartzen trigger assembly on my 10/22 and it is a two stage trigger so I believe your 10/22 probably is also. A two stage trigger obviously has two stages. The first stage is a light pull with some travel until the trigger comes to a stop. From this stopping point a gradual application of pressure will cause the trigger to break and the hammer to fall, this is the second stage. As compared to my 10/22 Volquartzen trigger the Giessele has a much longer first stage but then the same kind of trigger break. |
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Now we're talkin my language...
The travel in an AR trigger, can it be reduced? I think what I like most about that trigger in my 10/22 is that the travel before second stage is so short. The break on my stock AR is definitely different than my 10/22, but I can tolerate either. I like that my 10/22 releases the sear and resets in such a short distance. |
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Without some welding and re-machining of engagement surfaces on a Giessele there would be no way to change the first stage travel distance. I think that this would be an incredibly complicated operation for anyone to safely undertake. Any single stage AR trigger will have no pre travel, (1st stage), but almost all of them are less than satisfactory for precision use. They have a lot of creep and grittiness. A trigger job can be preformed to remedy some of the problems but then they tend to become unsafe and they can double or go full auto. A less than desirable situation. My only experience is with stock AR triggers and Giessele triggers. It is possible that some of the other drop in trigger groups, Timney and Wilson come to mind, may possess the characteristics you are looking for.
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| Watch the 4 part video series that Geissele has on YouTube about the Match Series triggers. They will explain anything you want to know about that series of triggers, how they effect accuracy, and all the adjustments that can be made to one to determine the overall performance of his triggers. It's an amazingly helpful det of videos. |
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S3G may be what you want.
http://www.laruetactical.com/geissele-super-3-gun-small-pin-trigger |
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Unless your building a gun specifically for three gun I would avoid this trigger. It just travels until the hammer falls. There is no perceptable stop before the hammer falls. It is wicked fast for follow up shots but would be difficult to be very accurate with and would be downright dangerous on a fighting gun. |
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After better understanding the terminology, I see what makes a solid 3gun rifle will put a bullet in the foot of a buddy in a fight.
I'll put the s3g on a dedicated long range platform. Ill look at my two stage options on the carbine. Thank you for the suggestions and the clarity. |
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