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Posted: 2/13/2013 2:24:39 PM EDT
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Anyone know of ones on the market? Research indicates there is Adams Arms Manimal in the A2 style.
Is it possible to take an existing one (eg. YHM Phantom) and get the same result by some how turning it down? I'd assume a lathe would be involved... |
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Quoted:
Anyone know of ones on the market? Research indicates there is Adams Arms Manimal in the A2 style. Is it possible to take an existing one (eg. YHM Phantom) and get the same result by some how turning it down? I'd assume a lathe would be involved... I don't understand. What are you looking to accomplished either esthetically or functionally by whatever it is you're trying to ask for? |
| Trying to make it so that when the flash hider is permanently attached the gas block and barrel nut are removable still in order to change forends...I had a LaRue rail on my gun which I wanted to remove to replace. I had to grind off the flash suppressor. If its possible, I'd like to avoid having to do that in the future if I want to change my rail. |
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Trying to make it so that when the flash hider is permanently attached the gas block and barrel nut are removable still in order to change forends...I had a LaRue rail on my gun which I wanted to remove to replace. I had to grind off the flash suppressor. If its possible, I'd like to avoid having to do that in the future if I want to change my rail. If the rail will slide in over a low profile gas block, why wouldn't it be able to slide over a standard A2 flash hider? |
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I don't think you understand?
I couldn't remove the FSB without removing the flash hider. Even if I had a low profile gas block on the gun I couldn't have gotten off the barrel nut without removing the gas block, which in turn would require the flash hider to be removed. So if the OD of a flash hider is .749 for arguments sake, one could remove the FSB or low profile gas block and the barrel nut without having to remove the flash hider...which is what I'm trying to accomplish. |
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I don't know any manufacter who makes one the same diameter As the barrel, maybe have one made? I know the Adams Arms Manimal is the same diameter...Someone posted a thread of custom ones his buddy did. I IMed him but haven't heard a reply. What I'm asking is, if its possible to shave down the outside of a YHM Phantom or if I have to just find one of the above ones...Would shaving down the outside hurt the integrity of the flash suppressor? Would it not matter? Where could I have this done? Etc. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I don't know any manufacter who makes one the same diameter As the barrel, maybe have one made? I know the Adams Arms Manimal is the same diameter...Someone posted a thread of custom ones his buddy did. I IMed him but haven't heard a reply. What I'm asking is, if its possible to shave down the outside of a YHM Phantom or if I have to just find one of the above ones...Would shaving down the outside hurt the integrity of the flash suppressor? Would it not matter? Where could I have this done? Etc. I have a "Levang Linear Compensator" attached to a WMD NiB-X Barrel. @brownells It's only slightly larger than the barrel itself. Gimme a second and I'll put it on the calipers and get you exact measurements and see if it could be turned down. OD 0.919 inches OD Gas block diameter on my barrel 0.750 inches ID of threaded opening on compensator 0.460 inches OD measured from left side vent hole to right side vent hole 0.769 inches Looks like if you turned it, you would end up cutting into the vent holes by 0.019 inches. ( total, only like 0.001 or 0.002 into each vent hole, but still enough to open it ) This would leave you with a very spikey looking compensator, and probably not direct sound / gases forward as originally designed, but it would certainly "work" as in, you could still fire the rifle. If you trusted your skills, you could turn it down just a hair more, put new threads on it, then fit a sleeve over it, because you really aren't removing that much of the drilled vent holes. You could always enlarge them a hair before you sleeve to maintain the same vent hole surface area. Each vent hole is 0.018 inches ID and the distance from compensator OD to vent hole is 0.075, so you're just barely nicking into the vent holes. Also, the other option, is to turn it down even more, so that only half the vent holes are left, at which point, it would look very much like a regular slimline compensator. So yeah, this will work if you turn it, when "work" is defined as "allowing gas block to slip over it" It's internal construction is very similar to something you could call a "flash hider blank" in that, the rear end with the threads is thick walled, and it opens up inside torwards the front where the vent holes are about half way. Pro Tip: Turn the threaded end down first, so you can still chuck it into the lathe to turn down the vent hole half. |
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