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Posted: 2/10/2013 3:44:06 AM EDT
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I watched the horror story unfold of the torch to the tube. Am I beyond gone? I had some help at build party and either it got over tighted or I just have the wrong tool. Any help would be appreciated. I'm in for a new castle nut if anyone has one for sale. Not trying to sell or buy anything in this forum. Just wanted some good strong advice. Yep I know it's a bad move when it's stripping. Thought it would just slide off. No loct tite was involved and it was not staked. Wanted to put on a ASAP.
If it is the tool I would like to avoid anyone else using it. 
********* UPDATE ********** Came right off with the right wrench. Thanks guys for your help. 
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Your problem is that the castle nut is staked. See the little square notches? Those are crimps/staked. Just take it to a LGS and they can help you out for 20 bucks I bet.
Also when you put it back together you don't need it staked or the lock-tite in my opinion. Mine has never come loose and if your shooting a few hundred rounds at a time and not in excess of thousands of rounds in a life or death situation, or competition, you will be fine. Then you can change stocks, buffer tube set ups with no problem. |
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Quoted:
Your problem is that the castle nut is staked. See the little square notches? Those are crimps/staked. Just take it to a LGS and they can help you out for 20 bucks I bet. Also when you put it back together you don't need it staked or the lock-tite in my opinion. Mine has never come loose and if your shooting a few hundred rounds at a time and not in excess of thousands of rounds in a life or death situation, or competition, you will be fine. Then you can change stocks, buffer tube set ups with no problem. I'm positive it wasn't staked unless I just can't see it? I don't mind running over and seeing my lgs. But I just don't think it is. Am I incorrectly lookin at it? I was there the entire build. |
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Quoted:
Your problem is that the castle nut is staked. See the little square notches? Those are crimps/staked. Just take it to a LGS and they can help you out for 20 bucks I bet. Also when you put it back together you don't need it staked or the lock-tite in my opinion. Mine has never come loose and if your shooting a few hundred rounds at a time and not in excess of thousands of rounds in a life or death situation, or competition, you will be fine. Then you can change stocks, buffer tube set ups with no problem. It doesn't looked staked to me. I am using this tool for removal of the castle nut. : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002E6X44C/ref=oh_details_o03_s02_i00 |
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Quoted:
Your problem is that the castle nut is staked. See the little square notches? Those are crimps/staked. Just take it to a LGS and they can help you out for 20 bucks I bet. Also when you put it back together you don't need it staked or the lock-tite in my opinion. Mine has never come loose and if your shooting a few hundred rounds at a time and not in excess of thousands of rounds in a life or death situation, or competition, you will be fine. Then you can change stocks, buffer tube set ups with no problem. Doesn't looked staked to me. The notches on the nut are there when you buy it. Here is a pic of a staked nut. The metal from the plate it pushed into the notch you are talking about, 
Get a better wrench that hit 3 of the notches. 
Question: Why do you want it off right now? I'd just leave it alone til all this shit passes over unless there is a need right now. |
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http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/ar-15-m4-stock-wrench-prod16882.aspx
Pick up one of these to have around. Can't beat it for $6. edit: Fat_Boy beat me to it. I guess that's what I get for opening multiple pages and then reading them. |
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Be advised when you get the castle nut off and put the asap on the tool mentioned above will hit the sides of the asap ring. You will be able to get it tight enough that it will stay but you will need to stake it. Trust me.  I use this tool for all my ASAP installations and it works fine, even on the castle nuts with the hole/slot. 
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Quoted:
Your problem is that the castle nut is staked. See the little square notches? Those are crimps/staked. Just take it to a LGS and they can help you out for 20 bucks I bet. Also when you put it back together you don't need it staked or the lock-tite in my opinion. Mine has never come loose and if your shooting a few hundred rounds at a time and not in excess of thousands of rounds in a life or death situation, or competition, you will be fine. Then you can change stocks, buffer tube set ups with no problem. Those "little square nothces" aren't staking, they're contact points for a castle nut wrench, which OP has. His nut might effectively be staked after all the pounding on it, but it's not technicaly staked. |
I recently installed an ASAP on my buddies rifle(CMMG) and went through the exact same problem as the OP. The DPMS wrench simply wouldn't loosen the castle nut in 3-4 attempts. I purchased one of the wrenches with the three teeth made from Tapco along with an extra castle nut off of EBay in case I screwed it up. I tried the Tapco wrench for about 10 seconds and SUPRISE the nut spun right off. I installed the ASAP plate and used the DPMS wrench and a small hammer to tighten up the nut again since the Tapco wrench wouldn't fit with the ASAP plate being installed. The DPMS does a better job of tightening than loosening I guess .
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Be advised when you get the castle nut off and put the asap on the tool mentioned above will hit the sides of the asap ring. You will be able to get it tight enough that it will stay but you will need to stake it. Trust me. I use this tool for all my ASAP installations and it works fine, even on the castle nuts with the hole/slot. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/114rK1gVNrL._SL500_AA300_.jpg I had one of those, the tooth lasted about one good grunt and broke off. |
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Magwell vise block + pipe wrench = done. A magwell block cannot protect the lower from torque damage during heavy wrenching. You can get away with it more during install....it's during un-install where the breakage will occur most. Same goes for Panther Claw. Book it. A magwell block is really only meant for light tinkering with sights, optics and such. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Be advised when you get the castle nut off and put the asap on the tool mentioned above will hit the sides of the asap ring. You will be able to get it tight enough that it will stay but you will need to stake it. Trust me. I use this tool for all my ASAP installations and it works fine, even on the castle nuts with the hole/slot. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/114rK1gVNrL._SL500_AA300_.jpg I had one of those, the tooth lasted about one good grunt and broke off. +1...wasted roughly $10 on that tool just because it was the only thing I could find locally. I ended up using a heavy flathead screw drivers and a hammer to loosen it. Mine was NOT staked. I would however suggest the same thing as others have said. Get a better castlenut wrench and a block to put it in a vise. |
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