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Posted: 7/16/2012 10:42:18 AM EDT
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thanks in advance for all the advice given on here-big help you guys have been
I'm building an ultralightweight AR and counting fractions of ounces. My question is what buffer kit/assembly would be best for my build? and I see some buffer tubes and springs that are recoil reducing-are these effective and would they add weight to my build? |
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I don't think buffer tubes vary much in weight if you're using any 7075 T6 Milspec carbine tube. Also, I doubt a buffer tube alone would do anything for recoil. The spring, and buffer itself has more of an influence on the recoil, and the gas system.
I'd worry about things like handguards, barrel length/diameter, and optics. |
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Also, I doubt a buffer tube alone would do anything for recoil. The spring, and buffer itself has more of an influence on the recoil, and the gas system. my bad-I meant to discuss whole assemblies, including the buffer itself. arent there different types/styles of buffers? |
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I hate to talk you out of the MOE but I feel like I have to. I have a mil spec MOE on my ar and it always wobbled. The commercial spec MOE's arent any better. Dont get me wrong though, for the price they are good stocks, but I had to get rid of mine. If it is down to these two stocks, I would go with the ACE ARFX.
I would stay with the regular H2 carbine buffer system. If it aint broke, dont fix it. |
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The milspec magpul CTR is lighter than the ACE ARFX stock. If I had lightweight in mind, I'd probably go buy a lightweight 16 or 14.5 (pinned and welded muzzle) midlength upper, no frills, slap some moe handguards or something like a hogue free float tube on it, then stick it on a carbine lower with whatever stock/grip you like.
There's always the polymer/carbon 15 lowers, but I'm really skeptical of how they'd hold up to abuse, even though all I do is shoot paper targets at a bench. 
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The milspec magpul CTR is lighter than the ACE ARFX stock. If I had lightweight in mind, I'd probably go buy a lightweight 16 or 14.5 (pinned and welded muzzle) midlength upper, no frills, slap some moe handguards or something like a hogue free float tube on it, then stick it on a carbine lower with whatever stock/grip you like. There's always the polymer/carbon 15 lowers, but I'm really skeptical of how they'd hold up to abuse, even though all I do is shoot paper targets at a bench. ok we're getting off topic here but my understanding is that the CTR has a friction lock and qd swivel mounts whereas the MOe does not-is this correct? I also hear plenty of people find the MOE more than acceptable with no wobble problems-anyone else have info on this? and back to my original topic-love to hear what other buffers are out there. Carry on! |
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Yes, CTR has friction lock and qd, while the MOE doesn't. If you want QD, look into getting a Noveske end plate. They weigh just as much as the regular end plate.
Anyway, when it comes to buffers just get what functions. H2 is fine. The regular spring is also fine. |
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Why not use a carbine stock?
That way you can forget about trying to figure out who offers the lightest buffertube. Nobody weighs and compares buffertubes... You would be better off dropping weight with the extraneous parts (stock, hg, grip, sights, etc) rather than parts that are going to affect the functionality and reliability. Carbine Stock: 
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| I'm running a PWS buffer tube on my LWRC. I've run about 1000 rounds with it, and I really like it. The way it attaches is solid. It's never come loose. There is an elastomer bumper at the end of the tube which supposedly helps absorb some of the energy of the buffer going back, and as a result reduced some of the felt recoil. I really can't say I've noticed much of a difference, but my next build will have a PWS buffer tube on it as well. As for weight, I'm not sure what the weight difference is compared to a standard buffer tube, if any. You can check PWS's website. I'm sure they have weights on it. |
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I'm running a PWS buffer tube on my LWRC. I've run about 1000 rounds with it, and I really like it. The way it attaches is solid. It's never come loose. There is an elastomer bumper at the end of the tube which supposedly helps absorb some of the energy of the buffer going back, and as a result reduced some of the felt recoil. I really can't say I've noticed much of a difference, but my next build will have a PWS buffer tube on it as well. As for weight, I'm not sure what the weight difference is compared to a standard buffer tube, if any. You can check PWS's website. I'm sure they have weights on it. good info-thanks for the posting. I edited my original post too to more specifically address my question |
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could you drill holes in the tube to lighten on up. if you took your time and spaced them right, i think it would look kinda cool and would lighten it up. just a thought.  DO NOT do this!!! Besides weakening the tube, any weight reduction would be negligible and you would be opening your receiver extension up to all kinds of grit and grime that could get in there and work it's way into your lower.....Bad Idea... 
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could you drill holes in the tube to lighten on up. if you took your time and spaced them right, i think it would look kinda cool and would lighten it up. just a thought. DO NOT do this!!! Besides weakening the tube, any weight reduction would be negligible and you would be opening your receiver extension up to all kinds of grit and grime that could get in there and work it's way into your lower.....Bad Idea...
LOL. If you're gonna go nuts drilling things, at least do it right. 
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could you drill holes in the tube to lighten on up. if you took your time and spaced them right, i think it would look kinda cool and would lighten it up. just a thought. DO NOT do this!!! Besides weakening the tube, any weight reduction would be negligible and you would be opening your receiver extension up to all kinds of grit and grime that could get in there and work it's way into your lower.....Bad Idea...
haha that was just an idea.. i don't think if you spaced them out right you would have to worry about strength. now if it was a .308 yes. but the dirt is the big thing that would be the deal breaker. |
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could you drill holes in the tube to lighten on up. if you took your time and spaced them right, i think it would look kinda cool and would lighten it up. just a thought. DO NOT do this!!! Besides weakening the tube, any weight reduction would be negligible and you would be opening your receiver extension up to all kinds of grit and grime that could get in there and work it's way into your lower.....Bad Idea...
LOL. If you're gonna go nuts drilling things, at least do it right.
http://www.quarterbore.com/images/Oa98-2.jpg awesome. I have my A2 grip all sanded down and swiss cheesed too-although yours looks better than mine in its current state. |
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If you're counting ounces, you're using a polymer lower––right? Polymer eh? http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_118/579680_Polymer_AR_Lowers.html&page=1#i5591688 Note: There is nothing wrong with the Cav Arms "polymer" lowers as they incorporate the stock into the strengthened overbuilt design. Get them here for $99 |
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Why not use a carbine stock? That way you can forget about trying to figure out who offers the lightest buffertube. Nobody weighs and compares buffertubes... You would be better off dropping weight with the extraneous parts (stock, hg, grip, sights, etc) rather than parts that are going to affect the functionality and reliability. +1 It appears that the Magpul Moe weighs 8oz where a mil spec carbine stock is only 4.4oz. I'd use a regular carbine buffer as well unless I encountered issues, then I'd consider going to an H1. The barrel and handguard are the other two major components that significantly contribute to weight. |
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