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Posted: 6/17/2012 7:56:35 PM EDT
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Well, I think I have a problem. I don't think this spring and retainer are seated correctly. I can't push the retainer down, and the buffer tube isn't so much as sitting on it as it is sitting against it. I think it needs to go in slightly more. Correct me if I'm wrong...
Now the worst part. Accidentally used red lock tight. I should be able to get it off with some heat, but what a shitty situation. 
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Step away from the Loctite... Nothing on your AR needs Loctite and certainly not the red formula.
The buffer retainer is not seated correctly and the receiver extension should screw in over it and retain it. Take it apart and do it right. And stake the castle nut next time. You learned your lesson. |
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Quoted: Heat gun. You could just loosen the buffer tube enough to release the retainer, then push the retainer down, screw the tube back over it. Personally I'd take it all apart, clean the loc-tite off and do it right.Quoted: That I did. Hard lesson to learn. Heatgun here I come. Or would I be better off buying a new tube and nut? Cutting this one off? |
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Heat gun. You could just loosen the buffer tube enough to release the retainer, then push the retainer down, screw the tube back over it. Personally I'd take it all apart, clean the loc-tite off and do it right.
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That I did. Hard lesson to learn. Heatgun here I come. Or would I be better off buying a new tube and nut? Cutting this one off? Thank you, Can someone please post a close of pic of this so I make sure I get it right the next go around... Thanks! |
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Quoted: Adding to what the esteemed ColonelHurtz and othes have said:Quoted: Quoted: Heat gun. You could just loosen the buffer tube enough to release the retainer, then push the retainer down, screw the tube back over it. Personally I'd take it all apart, clean the loc-tite off and do it right.Quoted: That I did. Hard lesson to learn. Heatgun here I come. Or would I be better off buying a new tube and nut? Cutting this one off? Thank you, Can someone please post a close of pic of this so I make sure I get it right the next go around... Thanks! In the rare instances that the buffer tube is either too far from the pin to make good contact when in the correct position, or so close that it impinges on the pin, you can file just a lil'bit off the lower leading edge of the tube so that it clears the buffer-trapping top part of the pin while still capturing the lower shoulder of the pin. Think in terms of 'fractions of a millimeter'. |
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Your receiver extension looks like it only has to screw in one, maybe two more turns to capture the buffer retainer pin.
If it's all the way in there, then it or your lower are out of spec (and that's unusual but not impossible). Usually there are threads left over behind the castle nut so you could trim the receiver end of the tube to make it fit. The retainer pin hole can be machined too shallow. Check that you have the right spring in there and that the RP will depress all the way down into it. Acetone and Methylene Chloride will both attack Loctite. The red formula is the high-temp "permanent" stuff. You can try both solvent and heat to work it free. Don't set yourself on fire or get either solvent on any plastic parts including your buffer. Why is your takedown pin sticking out so far? |
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From an Archive discussion, posted by Aggie Phil:
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Heat gun. You could just loosen the buffer tube enough to release the retainer, then push the retainer down, screw the tube back over it. Personally I'd take it all apart, clean the loc-tite off and do it right.
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That I did. Hard lesson to learn. Heatgun here I come. Or would I be better off buying a new tube and nut? Cutting this one off? Thank you, Can someone please post a close of pic of this so I make sure I get it right the next go around... Thanks! 
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Quoted:
Your receiver extension looks like it only has to screw in one, maybe two more turns to capture the buffer retainer pin. If it's all the way in there, then it or your lower are out of spec (and that's unusual but not impossible). Usually there are threads left over behind the castle nut so you could trim the receiver end of the tube to make it fit. The retainer pin hole can be machined too shallow. Check that you have the right spring in there and that the RP will depress all the way down into it. Acetone and Methylene Chloride will both attack Loctite. The red formula is the high-temp "permanent" stuff. You can try both solvent and heat to work it free. Don't set yourself on fire or get either solvent on any plastic parts including your buffer. Why is your takedown pin sticking out so far? Thank you again. I'm not sure on the rear take down pin. That is fully locked into place. I'll have to look at that too. There are about 3/8" of threads behind my castle nut, so there are plenty of threads to keep going. I'll hopefully give everything a try today. |
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Don't sweat the takedown pin, I think that the flash and angle are just exaggerating it.
Receiver extension/retaining pin alignments look like this: 
Some of them have a little notch. 
Staking is not hard but a lot of people over think it. The staking doesn't hold anything together, it just keeps the castle nut from backing off from vibration. Make sure everything is assembled correctly, the tube is dead straight, the retainer pin is adequately captured and the stock fits. Use a center punch, a big one like a 3/8. $5 at Sears. Prop the gun up some wood or telephone books right under the nut. 
Put the point on the retainer plate right at the notch in the castle nut. Hold the punch completely vertical and give it one firm whack with a ball peen hammer to set it. Inspect. Is it where you want it? Put the punch back in the center mark you just made but this time angle the punch just a little bit so you'll be driving the metal towards the nut. Give it one hard whack to spread the metal. You don't need to fill the notch, just flow some metal into it. It should look something like this: 
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personally, i like using a spring-loaded center punch to stake castle nuts. i'm a little leary of smashing things on my AR's with a hammer  Don't trust yourself with tools? Learning to control force is a good life lesson in many ways. Mechanically speaking, it will keep you from going through life stripping threads, shearing bolts and boogering up screw heads. I've whaled away with sledges, mauls and cranked on cheater bars with my entire body weight to get something on, off, in or out and it's always satisfying to smash something into little pieces with your own strength but I wouldn't do any of that to a spark plug or an eyeglass hinge screw. Use the right tool and only the necessary amount of force. |
| Thanks for all the great info. Unfortuantely the castle nut didn't come off as planned. Stripped one of the threads right off of the buffer tube. Used a heat gun for about 10 minutes...as well as some acrysol. It moved but took some threads with it. I'm out a buffer tube and nut. Things could be worse. |
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Thanks for all the great info. Unfortuantely the castle nut didn't come off as planned. Stripped one of the threads right off of the buffer tube. Used a heat gun for about 10 minutes...as well as some acrysol. It moved but took some threads with it. I'm out a buffer tube and nut. Things could be worse. Send a nice letter to Loctite describing how well their product works.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks for all the great info. Unfortuantely the castle nut didn't come off as planned. Stripped one of the threads right off of the buffer tube. Used a heat gun for about 10 minutes...as well as some acrysol. It moved but took some threads with it. I'm out a buffer tube and nut. Things could be worse. Send a nice letter to Loctite describing how well their product works. Thank you for ruining $45 worth of fine crafted metal. If only your customers were as smart as you are
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