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Posted: 6/6/2012 5:34:33 PM EDT
| Ok, my yhm crush washer arrived for my flash suppressor and it's the final piece of the puzzle before I hit the range. Looks like this is supposed to be torqued to around 20 ft lbs and I don't know if a crows foot is supposed to be used in addition to a torque wrench but I don't have one on hand. How crucial is it for this to be torqued, and can I just do it with a non marring crescent wrench with some medium strength threadlocker? Also one side of the washer has a smooth bevel I'm assuiming this is installed with the bevel towards the barrell? |
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Quoted:
No need for a T wrench when using a crush washer, just time the flashider. I use grease (molly fort) or antiseize on the threads of most FH installs. On crush washer the cupped/large side toward the flash hider +1^ Your muzzle device should have come with a little slip of paper stating min/max timing allowed. On one of mine, it timed on a crush washer within 15-20 degrees and probably (didn't measure) no more than 20 foot pounds of torque while another had to be man-handled on and almost a 300 degree spin to time correctly. |
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Ok I'm a bit confused as to what you guys are referring to as time, here is a link to the flash suppressor I'm installing, there are 0 directions with it.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/457766/ar-stoner-talon-flash-hider-5-8-24-ar-10-lr-308-thread-ar-15-parkerized |
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Quoted:
Ok I'm a bit confused as to what you guys are referring to as time, here is a link to the flash suppressor I'm installing, there are 0 directions with it. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/457766/ar-stoner-talon-flash-hider-5-8-24-ar-10-lr-308-thread-ar-15-parkerized It doesn't look to have a critical timing requirement like some muzzle devices. Still, a pro would probably "time" that device with the wrench flats vertical. |
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Quoted:
Ok I'm a bit confused as to what you guys are referring to as time, here is a link to the flash suppressor I'm installing, there are 0 directions with it. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/457766/ar-stoner-talon-flash-hider-5-8-24-ar-10-lr-308-thread-ar-15-parkerized Some devices require they be 'timed' to the barrel for optimal function. As an example, the standard A2 flash suppressor has cuts that are designed to be from the 7:30 to 12:00 to 4:30 positions around the barrel (like a clock with 12:00 being straight up) and the non-ported/cut area facing straight down at the 6:00 position. This would be called 'timed' at 12:00. Other devices require a 3:00 & 9:00 time (think of a Barret brake), while even others are non-standard and require a 2:00 or 10:00 o'clock timing. As Direct-Drive mentions, that particular device does not appear to require a specific timing other than the torque min/max and the use of a crush washer. |
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BigQ: Several things to remember:
- Its only necessary to tighten the FH enough so that it doesn't come loose. Finger tight is not enough, 20 ft-lbs is probably too much, IMO - When tightening, clamp the forward end of the barrel in a padded vise before applying torque to the FH. You don't want any torque to be translated to the upper receiver - Timing is simply a matter of getting the slots on the FH oriented the way you want them. For a right handed shooter, you want the slots pushing those little sparks in directions other than about 11 oclock, which is where your offhand eye is looking. My method is to carefully remove small amounts of metal from the underside of the crush washer, with sandpaper, until the FH lines up the way I want it. It only takes a little bit of removal to move the slots 10 degrees. - Don't use threadlocker, instead apply some kind of anti seize grease, e.g., wheel bearing or disk brake grease. You need to remove the FH occasionally to clean fouling off the crown. Good luck - CW |
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Quoted:
BigQ: Several things to remember: - Its only necessary to tighten the FH enough so that it doesn't come loose. Finger tight is not enough, 20 ft-lbs is probably too much, IMO - When tightening, clamp the forward end of the barrel in a padded vise before applying torque to the FH. You don't want any torque to be translated to the upper receiver - Timing is simply a matter of getting the slots on the FH oriented the way you want them. For a right handed shooter, you want the slots pushing those little sparks in directions other than about 11 oclock, which is where your offhand eye is looking. My method is to carefully remove small amounts of metal from the underside of the crush washer, with sandpaper, until the FH lines up the way I want it. It only takes a little bit of removal to move the slots 10 degrees. - Don't use threadlocker, instead apply some kind of anti seize grease, e.g., wheel bearing or disk brake grease. You need to remove the FH occasionally to clean fouling off the crown. Good luck - CW Torque for the flash hider from the Tech Manual is 15-20 ft lbs As soon as you say "anti-seize" they are off the grease trail and onto a Permatex, Never-Seez, Versa-Chem hunt. Many of these use aluminum or copper particles in the compound intended for steel-to-steel applications. Not the best choice for AR15 applications. Anti-seize compound is anti-seize compound. There is no "anti-seize grease". |
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Quoted:
in this application antiseize is a perfect fit. it is steel on steel, some c5-a would work perfect. If they're disciplined enough to keep it off the barrel nut and other places where it doesn't belong. Better to have one product that will handle muzzle device, barrel nut, receiver extension, trigger, etc, etc. I like anti-seize compound (Permatex) for engine work but no so much for the AR. |
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