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Posted: 6/6/2012 4:32:30 AM EDT
| Have read through the Lower build thread many time and would like to know when installing the roll pins which method works better and has the least likelyhood of braking something. Using vise grips or punch? |
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Quoted:
Using the correct type of punch with the work properly supported I have never broken anything in more than 30 years of AR building. +1 (minus the whole 30 years thing) If you can properly support the part, use the proper punches. If you can't support the parts, use either a punch or plier-type tool carefully. |
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Been swinging a hammer since 1971 so it's the hammer and punch method here.
Using roll pin starter punches and roll pin punches. Some n00bs are not comfortable with hammer and punch and developed the plier method. Use a plier with parallel jaws like a Channellock. You still should use a roll pin punch to finish. |
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Roll pin holders
Roll pin punches these will be useful tool sets. |
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Quoted:
Will just a block of wood do it for support with proper punch (what I've seen on YouTube)? And is a castle nut wrench a necessity when installing stock kit? If we're talking just the lower assembly.... Trigger Guard Roll Pin_____If you support the opposite ear with a small block of wood you can safely drive that pin. I squeeze the RP a bit prior and then lube the pin/hole____keep the lube off the driving face of the pin. Some will chuck up the pin in a drill and lightly spin it against a file to create a taper on the leading face. Some pins already have this taper. Most RP's are of the split variety, but there are spiral pins available too. Those that use the spirals say that they drive easier. The fatal mistake here is not properly supporting the opposite ear and breaking it off. Bolt Catch Roll Pin_____Some will stand the receiver on end to control movement of the receiver while driving this pin. I like the receiver to be horizontal and use the special Brownells punch for this pin. I might screw a piece of 1x to the bench to create a stop that controls movement of the receiver. Common mistakes with this one are wrong spring, detent in the wrong position, out of spec catch. Dry-fit (use a slave pin) the assembly prior to pinning to check for proper function and any out of spec parts will be discovered. A slave pin holds the assembly in alignment as you drive from the other side. A slave pin can be the shank of a drill bit, nail etc. Get the slave's diameter as close as possible. Use a castle nut wrench______they're very cheap and you're not whacking on a finished part with hammer and chisel. The RRA and MI castle nut wrenches are only about $6.00 |
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Quoted:
What about the ear you are driving through, shouldn't that need support. Think it through. The ear that you're driving through is "stacking" onto the trigger guard, which is in turn "stacking" against the opposite ear which should be properly supported. All three elements are stacked and bearing on the support block. In other words, you do not drive that pin, even a little, without the trigger guard in place. It's true that these pins are man-boy separators....your age doesn't matter. Be crystal clear on the mission, use proper technique and complete the mission. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
What about the ear you are driving through, shouldn't that need support. Think it through. The ear that you're driving through is "stacking" onto the trigger guard, which is in turn "stacking" against the opposite ear which should be properly supported. All three elements are stacked and bearing on the support block. In other words, you do not drive that pin, even a little, without the trigger guard in place. It's true that these pins are man-boy separators....your age doesn't matter. Be crystal clear on the mission, use proper technique and complete the mission.  don't know how I didn't see that! Thanks
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