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Posted: 9/18/2011 7:30:56 PM EDT
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Need advice on a buy vs build decision. I'm new to AR and looking to acquire my first.
While I'd like to gain the experience of building my first AR - I'm open to a single purchase or pushing 2 pins together. My budget is $900 - to be used for SHTF and target. If I understand correctly, I can avoid 10-11% tax simply by building myself. I'd like the best quality AR for my budget (mil-spec), and am willing to shop around for bargains (but don't want to wait more than 3 weeks). I'm on NW side of Atlanta, if that opens-up any options. 16" 1:7 Chrome lined with flash suppressor (mil-spec) NATO 5.56/223 5+ position stock (milspec) Mil-spec bolt & carrier Flat top rail - for optics (future) My biggest challenge has been matching correct parts for the sights and front hand guard/rail I want. I've seen a lot of pictures I like, but can't determine the part components or complete upper to purchase. I want folding sights on both front and rear - tight/low maintenance and accurate. Most uppers seem to have the normal "F" stamped front sight. I'd like either a rail-mounted folding front sight or a folding front sight (which looks like a normal "F" sight when extended). I'd also like either Magpul MOE Hand Guard or a nice-looking 4-rail which won't snag much. I've been reading extensively, and it seems the only difference in these two setups is personal taste - and how many toys will be hanging-off them. With the rail mounted front sight, does that imply a free floating setup? How does a free floating hand guard attach to the barrel? Any pros/cons would be appreciated. I'd appreciate any advice for mfg and part#/links... |
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Here is what I would do:
Palmetto State Upper Which you can add MBUS for 70 dollars Palmetto State Stripped Lower and then either: Magpul MOE Build Kit or Standard Build Kit Which would put you right around 900 dollars for a very nice rifle. |
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I like the TRX rail, but am leaning towards the Troy 11" TRX Alpha Rail . I contacted PSA and this rail isn't available on that build (or at all). I hate to invest 25% of my $$ on a rail - though, sure is sexy.
If I bite the bullet and go with the Alpha, I assume I'm better-off piecing together an upper, instead of purchasing a complete one to mod. I've searched, and can't seem to find one of the same quality as the PSA with TRX. Any recommendations? Would I be able to easily sale the TRX on the PSA build? Would the 11" rail fit correctly with a midy vs carbine, if I piece together? A local gun shop said they'd help me if I run into any issues with my build due to my lack of tools. A quick after-hour review or showing me anything I needed help with... The sales person also said they could build a rifle for me. Based on a quick conversation, the sales person said I could bring my parts list in and they could usually order the exact parts for cheaper than I could. Does this sound right - do Spikes, PSA and such sell to dealers for prices below the ones I find on the internet? Also, the guy recommended Yankee barrels and C3 lower receivers - any thoughts? Why isn't it cheaper to order a stripped lower through a gun shop and pay the markup versus the $25-30 transfer fee? Just curious... Any advice would be appreciated. |
| To decide if to buy or build is very simple. First decide exactly what you want out of your rifle as far as looks and requirements. Then Look and see what is factory made that you like and what you would do to make it yours. Then build your own parts list(looks like you have a good idea) and see which is cheaper. Its almost always cheaper to build for me. |
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Build it! I wish I was determined to build before I bought my 1st AR. I ended up buying 2 complete ARs then I assembled a lower & slapped on a fully assembled upper before I got the bug to build one from scratch. I could have saved a shit load and had exactly what I wanted instead of settling for what was locally available.
Since you want front and rear folding sights then I'd go with a free float hand guard. Free float hand guards do not touch the barrel at all and are therefore encourages accuracy. If you go with a rail mounted front flip sight then I'd definitely go with a low profile gas block. The length and style of free float hand guard is your choice. Some like a full length quad rail. Some like a smooth hand guard, but with rails on the end ... they make customizable free float tubes so you can install different length rails that can be attached wherever you want them. Some like to use a smooth round free float tube with no rails at all. If you want good heavy duty flip sights, I'd go with Troy. Troy's sights are very high quality and are not priced all that much over most others. The MOE hand guards are a no go if you want 'free floating' hand guards. The MOE hand guards are more like drop in replacements for the older style plastic hand guards and are not 'free float'. There are a lot of different brands of hand guards. I'd start by checking out Yankee Hill Machine. They have all the different styles. IF you do end up going with a YHM hand guard you should check out Joe Bob Outfitters. They have free shipping and they are typically the least expensive place to get a lot of components. As far as the actual building of the weapon, I'd watch Brownells How To Build An AR-15 video if you haven't already. That video pretty much covers everything. If you know how to download music, movies, software and stuff like that then you should have no problem downloading the DVD. I preferred watching the DVD instead of a tiny little video. |
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I'm new to the building scene and just did my first one last week. I bought my first two and assembled my third.
I found that building it is a spiritual experience. The gun really becomes part of you and you become part of the gun when you're the one who assembled and created it. You learn so much about how the gun is designed and operates, it's like Eugene Stoner is communicating to you from the beyond. As far as free float handguard, they attach to the barrel nut, either the factory barrel nut or one that comes with the handguard. If you get a Troy TRX rail, it will come with a specially designed aluminum barrel nut to replace the stock barrel nut. Just make sure you use the wrench supplied with the rail so you don't break any of the teeth on the nut. After you tightened the barrel nut and aligned it for for the gas tube, the handguard just slips over it and then twists into position. Then you tighten two screws that clamp it to the barrel nut. If you want to cover the gas block with the handguard, or want the ability to take the handguard on and off easily, then you'll need to have a low profile gas block or shave the front sight off your pinned gas block. If you want a flip-up front sight on your handguard, then you need a pair of "same rail plane" sights (the Troy Flip-Up Battle Sights are same plane, for example). Just note that since it is a free-float handguard, pressure on the handguard can cause flex which moves your front sight some and thus move your point of impact. So to shoot consistently, you have to hold it consistently. The biggest accuracy advantage of a free-float is when you put an optic on your receiver. Then any uneven pressure you might exert on the handguard when shooting, causing it to flex, is not transmitted to your barrel. A traditional handguard attached to the front of the barrel might cause the barrel to flex when putting pressure on the handguard during shooting, moving it out of line with your optic mounted on the receiver. So If you're planning on using an optic, with flip-ups for back up iron sights, a front sight on the handguard works well enough since they are only the back up sights and your optic is the primary. Should something happen to your optic and you have to use your back-up sights, can still hit a pie plate at 100 yards with a front sight on the handguard if you hold it consistently. But if you want ultimate accuracy with iron sights, you should install the front sight onto the barrel (via standard or F height front sight gas block, or "gas block height" front sight on a railed gas block). That way your front sight is married to the barrel, instead of the handguard, and thus moves with the barrel, instead of the handguard.. You can also put a free-float handguard on with a barrel mounted sight, the handguard just has to be shorter so it fits behind the sight. |
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Quoted:
excellent write ups guys. For us AR build newbies this is really helpful. If I can side track on the same road let me ask if using an optic and something like the Troy Vtac hadguard, what gas block and flip up front sight should be looked at? Thanks! It's kind of hard to pick out of my post above, but if you want the flip-up front sight to be mounted on the handguard rail, then you need a "same plane" height front sight. If you want the handguard to also cover the gas block, you will need a low profile gas block and get a handguard that is long enough to cover whatever length gas system you will be using (carbine, midlength or rifle.) If you want the front sight mounted to the barrel, you will need a fixed sight gas block or a railed gas block with a gas block height front sight (either fixed or flip). You will not be able to cover the gas block with a handguard due to the front sight on the barrel, so get a shorter handguard that will fit behind the sight/gasblock. You will also have to remove your gas block if you want to remove your handguard with this arrangement. |
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My options are now overwhelming!
I am leaning towards a 14.5 barrel with perm attach flash suppressor. Though, I'm not sure if 13" or 11" (will only work with carbine) Alpha rail will look better - I am continuing to search for pictures. Seems the 14.5 with welded flash suppressor will limit my future options. Should I have any trouble getting the Alpha rail over it? I now need to call YMH and determine if the YHM 14.5 Fluted barrel is a mid or carbine, and what's different about the two options listed on the site for each twist ratio. Also, not sure if it includes gas block. Should my handguard decision drive my barrel lengh decision or visa versa - considering I'm not looking for sub MOA? Thoughts? If I go with the 14.5 or 16" YMH - is any upper from a reputable company a good option? Found a PSA for $99.... Also, does either the stripped upper or barrel include the barrel nut, gas block - or do I need to purchase separately? I appreciate everyone's input, as I'm still learning. Getting really excited about this build. 
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yeah too many options! What a bad thing right? lol. Im going a little different route building the lower myself but buying complete upper (spikes 5.45) and then wanting to change the handguard out. Guess I'll have to have the upper in hand to measure and figure out what handguard will work with whatever the gas block setup is with the spikes.
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