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Posted: 7/12/2011 6:12:30 PM EDT
| Does anyone have any good tricks to keep from bending the spring that goes under the end plate? I am frustrated as hell right now. |
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I am confused...What are you doing to it to bend it?
I don't install it until I put the buffer tube on...The end plate usually does not time to center with where it needs to go. I then back off the castle nut and move the plate full back. Rotate the end plate back to almost in place. I insert the spring and push in with thumb. I then rotate the end plate to position and let the spring back out. I slowly push the end plate into position without bending it. Then hold this while spinning the castle nut down. Torque and complete...Easy. Removal is about the same process in reverse. What am I missing? |
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Quoted:
I am confused...What are you doing to it to bend it? I don't install it until I put the buffer tube on...The end plate usually does not time to center with where it needs to go. I then back off the castle nut and move the plate full back. Rotate the end plate back to almost in place. I insert the spring and push in with thumb. I then rotate the end plate to position and let the spring back out. I slowly push the end plate into position without bending it. Then hold this while spinning the castle nut down. Torque and complete...Easy. Removal is about the same process in reverse. What am I missing? Perhaps he's not using a carbine stock |
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Quoted:
I am confused...What are you doing to it to bend it? I don't install it until I put the buffer tube on...The end plate usually does not time to center with where it needs to go. I then back off the castle nut and move the plate full back. Rotate the end plate back to almost in place. I insert the spring and push in with thumb. I then rotate the end plate to position and let the spring back out. I slowly push the end plate into position without bending it. Then hold this while spinning the castle nut down. Torque and complete...Easy. Removal is about the same process in reverse. What am I missing? For some reason, it's not that simple for me. I am bending it when I gently push the end plate back in place. Now, my question is...can a bent spring be "unbent"? Please don't reply other than to say "yes" or "no" with an explanation to how it can be done. Thanks in advance! |
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It probably can be used temporary without any issues...I would replace anyway since they aren't but a $1 or $2. Just don't stake your castle nut and it's a quick replacement later. Straighten a spring...You can try, but I would replace.
Also, I'm not big into the drill and tap part described above. Yes, that makes a solid build with less chance of loss, but if you are now pushing in on the spring versus just a plate ending flush with the lower. If the spring was cut down...I might have less pause. Anyway, I don't take my stock on and off enough to warrant drill and tap to fix the wierd AR-15 setup - Just me. Also, it's just not that tough to remember that removing the plate can have a projectile come at you...Just like the grip...It's not a big deal...I'm not going to drill and tap everything to avoid a spring shooting out. I don't drill and roll pin the spring on the M-9 slide...It's just something to remember, and it separates the men from the boys. |
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Perhaps he's not using a carbine stock Golden...He stated end plate...I assumed collapsable stock from that. I don't remember the full polymer stock having an end plate, but I could be wrong since I have not built one. ETA: OP, you could push the spring in with a flat object like a razor blade. Push the end plate up and slip the blade out....Less chance of the bending incident. I dulled a razor blade on a grinder, and also used it to hold in the pivot pin detent and spring. That one is fun sometimes too. |
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Perhaps he's not using a carbine stock Golden...He stated end plate...I assumed collapsable stock from that. I don't remember the full polymer stock having an end plate, but I could be wrong since I have not built one. ETA: OP, you could push the spring in with a flat object like a razor blade. Push the end plate up and slip the blade out....Less chance of the bending incident. I dulled a razor blade on a grinder, and also used it to hold in the pivot pin detent and spring. That one is fun sometimes too. D'OH! rif 
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Perhaps he's not using a carbine stock Golden...He stated end plate...I assumed collapsable stock from that. I don't remember the full polymer stock having an end plate, but I could be wrong since I have not built one. ETA: OP, you could push the spring in with a flat object like a razor blade. Push the end plate up and slip the blade out....Less chance of the bending incident. I dulled a razor blade on a grinder, and also used it to hold in the pivot pin detent and spring. That one is fun sometimes too. Thank you! I don't have a razor blade but I do have a small pocket knife I will try to use. I honestly don't want to have to drive back to the store to buy another spring (or two) but it's looking like I may have to go that route. |
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Simply install it correctly. This was extremely helpful!!! Thank you!!! 
So, sarcasm aside, I was able to get the spring straightened out and used my flat head screwdriver to keep it in place while I pushed the end plate into place. Now everything is nice and tight. My guess is that the previous owner of this rifle did not know what the hell he was doing when he put on the CAA stock he installed. I will eventually replace the extension tube and castle nut because it seems he almost stripped it and I will definitely be more prepared next time for how to do it better. The one thing I love about this hobby/habit is that f*cking something up helps you to understand how that part really works and how to build from scratch. |
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It probably can be used temporary without any issues...I would replace anyway since they aren't but a $1 or $2. Just don't stake your castle nut and it's a quick replacement later. Straighten a spring...You can try, but I would replace. Also, I'm not big into the drill and tap part described above. Yes, that makes a solid build with less chance of loss, but if you are now pushing in on the spring versus just a plate ending flush with the lower. If the spring was cut down...I might have less pause. Anyway, I don't take my stock on and off enough to warrant drill and tap to fix the wierd AR-15 setup - Just me. Also, it's just not that tough to remember that removing the plate can have a projectile come at you...Just like the grip...It's not a big deal...I'm not going to drill and tap everything to avoid a spring shooting out. I don't drill and roll pin the spring on the M-9 slide...It's just something to remember, and it separates the men from the boys. I tap and set screw all my lowers. I cut the spring, i remove the same length of the set screw I use. When I found out about the mod and how easy it was I spent the less than $10 and bought the tools and a 100 set screws. I dont plan on changing stock all the time but it is wstill worth it to me. MAHA |
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It probably can be used temporary without any issues...I would replace anyway since they aren't but a $1 or $2. Just don't stake your castle nut and it's a quick replacement later. Straighten a spring...You can try, but I would replace. Also, I'm not big into the drill and tap part described above. Yes, that makes a solid build with less chance of loss, but if you are now pushing in on the spring versus just a plate ending flush with the lower. If the spring was cut down...I might have less pause. Anyway, I don't take my stock on and off enough to warrant drill and tap to fix the wierd AR-15 setup - Just me. Also, it's just not that tough to remember that removing the plate can have a projectile come at you...Just like the grip...It's not a big deal...I'm not going to drill and tap everything to avoid a spring shooting out. I don't drill and roll pin the spring on the M-9 slide...It's just something to remember, and it separates the men from the boys. I tap and set screw all my lowers. I cut the spring, i remove the same length of the set screw I use. When I found out about the mod and how easy it was I spent the less than $10 and bought the tools and a 100 set screws. I dont plan on changing stock all the time but it is wstill worth it to me. MAHA Plus 1 My brother tapped all of his and I had him tap my lowers as well. So much damn nicer now. |
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It probably can be used temporary without any issues...I would replace anyway since they aren't but a $1 or $2. Just don't stake your castle nut and it's a quick replacement later. Straighten a spring...You can try, but I would replace. Also, I'm not big into the drill and tap part described above. Yes, that makes a solid build with less chance of loss, but if you are now pushing in on the spring versus just a plate ending flush with the lower. If the spring was cut down...I might have less pause. Anyway, I don't take my stock on and off enough to warrant drill and tap to fix the wierd AR-15 setup - Just me. Also, it's just not that tough to remember that removing the plate can have a projectile come at you...Just like the grip...It's not a big deal...I'm not going to drill and tap everything to avoid a spring shooting out. I don't drill and roll pin the spring on the M-9 slide...It's just something to remember, and it separates the men from the boys. I tap and set screw all my lowers. I cut the spring, i remove the same length of the set screw I use. When I found out about the mod and how easy it was I spent the less than $10 and bought the tools and a 100 set screws. I dont plan on changing stock all the time but it is wstill worth it to me. MAHA Plus 1 My brother tapped all of his and I had him tap my lowers as well. So much damn nicer now. Plus 2 All of my builds get this treatment. |
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It probably can be used temporary without any issues...I would replace anyway since they aren't but a $1 or $2. Just don't stake your castle nut and it's a quick replacement later. Straighten a spring...You can try, but I would replace. Also, I'm not big into the drill and tap part described above. Yes, that makes a solid build with less chance of loss, but if you are now pushing in on the spring versus just a plate ending flush with the lower. If the spring was cut down...I might have less pause. Anyway, I don't take my stock on and off enough to warrant drill and tap to fix the wierd AR-15 setup - Just me. Also, it's just not that tough to remember that removing the plate can have a projectile come at you...Just like the grip...It's not a big deal...I'm not going to drill and tap everything to avoid a spring shooting out. I don't drill and roll pin the spring on the M-9 slide...It's just something to remember, and it separates the men from the boys. I tap and set screw all my lowers. I cut the spring, i remove the same length of the set screw I use. When I found out about the mod and how easy it was I spent the less than $10 and bought the tools and a 100 set screws. I dont plan on changing stock all the time but it is wstill worth it to me. MAHA Plus 1 My brother tapped all of his and I had him tap my lowers as well. So much damn nicer now. Plus 2 All of my builds get this treatment. I've tapped all of mine.......the Aero precision was already tapped.........the only one I have not tapped is the Colt.......don't want to hurt the value............. |
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Quoted: Quoted: It probably can be used temporary without any issues...I would replace anyway since they aren't but a $1 or $2. Just don't stake your castle nut and it's a quick replacement later. Straighten a spring...You can try, but I would replace. Also, I'm not big into the drill and tap part described above. Yes, that makes a solid build with less chance of loss, but if you are now pushing in on the spring versus just a plate ending flush with the lower. If the spring was cut down...I might have less pause. Anyway, I don't take my stock on and off enough to warrant drill and tap to fix the wierd AR-15 setup - Just me. Also, it's just not that tough to remember that removing the plate can have a projectile come at you...Just like the grip...It's not a big deal...I'm not going to drill and tap everything to avoid a spring shooting out. I don't drill and roll pin the spring on the M-9 slide...It's just something to remember, and it separates the men from the boys. I tap and set screw all my lowers. I cut the spring, i remove the same length of the set screw I use. When I found out about the mod and how easy it was I spent the less than $10 and bought the tools and a 100 set screws. I dont plan on changing stock all the time but it is wstill worth it to me. MAHA Same here with the screws. Just assembled a ARFCOM billet lower today. |
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http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=41474/Product/AR_15_M16_TAKEDOWN_PIN_SPRING
Theres 5 in the pack and will ship probably for their light weight fee. |
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Simply install it correctly. Funny! That is one thing I love about this forum...There is always someone that is comical. For all the MOD guys out there. Don't take me wrong. I worked in a machine shop for 8 years, and I like the fix. It makes complete sense. Do you really disassemble so much that this is an issue? I just know there is a certain amount of pressure that the spring exerts on the pin detent. Cutting the spring the length may or may not be ther same - springs are progrssive as you push them...Maybe that is correct. Anyway, I'm glad people are thinking and cutting them. If not, I need to open a machine shop and make detents. All that rubbing from the added pressure is sure to grind down the detent quicker. Wait - Selling them for $1-2...Might take a lot of sales to make any money. OP - I hope this helped. If I can figure out any other tricks, I will let you know. I can't take credit for the razor trick. I say that on someone's post on U-tube. Link Link2 |
For less than $10 it's a great mod to do to your AR's.
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Since I couldn't find the link.
items required for proceedure: one 4/40 thread tap a small tap handle a small can of tapping oil and a 4/40 set screw and appropriate allen wrench. You merely tap the rear take down detent hole about 3/8 of an inch deep, clean out debris from the hole, mount take down pin and load detent and detent spring. Be sure to trim 1/8 inch from the detent spring. Then secure the assembly with the addition of the 4/40 set screw and your rear take down pin is self contained just like the front take down pin. Now to can change butt stocks without ever worrying about a lost or bent rear take down detent spring. 11 of my 12 lowers have set screws. |
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For less than $10 it's a great mod to do to your AR's. And $10 is for the first time. You don't have to re buy the tap on subsequent builds. What does a 4-40 set screw cost these days? Got my screws for 20 cents each at Ace hardware store. going to do this on my new build im starting and my two other rifles as well |
| Wow! I guess I have just been lucky assembling my rifles. I have put together 4 and taken about 10 apart without one bent/lost. To me, it's just attention to detail in assembling/disassembling the rifle. Again, I don't take my rifles apart enough to warrant the drill, tap, and set screw. Also, I normally can remember that there is a spring underneath the plate...Just like there is one underneath the buffer tube and the grip. |
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