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Posted: 6/23/2011 6:14:02 PM EDT
I am going to be perm attaching my BC 1.5 on my middy using silver solder. The Battle Comp came with a crush washer, when I put it together the battle comp is not correctly timed on the barrel when snug against the crush washer. My question is since I am silver soldering it can I back it off a bit so that the battle comp is properly timed in relation to the barrel? It looks like there is roughly about .005 of a gap between the crush washer and barrel or muzzle device when it is correctly timed. Will the silver solder fill in that small amount of void? Thanks SD79 
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Is it a 14.5 barrel? I would recommend a blind pin weld over silver solder. I do my own but if you don't have the equipment or the experience check with ADCO they are reasonable. Yes, its a 14.5 barrel. What is the reason for blind pin over silver solder if I may ask? From what I see, whoever pins and welds it is going to run into the same issue I am having. |
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Is it a 14.5 barrel? I would recommend a blind pin weld over silver solder. I do my own but if you don't have the equipment or the experience check with ADCO they are reasonable. Yes, its a 14.5 barrel. What is the reason for blind pin over silver solder if I may ask? From what I see, whoever pins and welds it is going to run into the same issue I am having. Sorry, just had to ask. Blind pin welds tend to be more durable if subjected to LEO scrutiny. It should index with a crush washer but if not you may want to consider a peel washer instead. |
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Is it a 14.5 barrel? I would recommend a blind pin weld over silver solder. I do my own but if you don't have the equipment or the experience check with ADCO they are reasonable. Yes, its a 14.5 barrel. What is the reason for blind pin over silver solder if I may ask? From what I see, whoever pins and welds it is going to run into the same issue I am having. Sorry, just had to ask. Blind pin welds tend to be more durable if subjected to LEO scrutiny. It should index with a crush washer but if not you may want to consider a peel washer instead. This may sound stupid but I figured I would ask anyways... If im soldering it could I possibly use just a regular washer to get it to index properly or does it have to be a peel washer? I ask because after I solder it all they are all going to be one solid unit. Another questions. The crush washers tapered end point down the barrel toward you, right? Thanks SD79 |
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Is it a 14.5 barrel? I would recommend a blind pin weld over silver solder. I do my own but if you don't have the equipment or the experience check with ADCO they are reasonable. Yes, its a 14.5 barrel. What is the reason for blind pin over silver solder if I may ask? From what I see, whoever pins and welds it is going to run into the same issue I am having. Sorry, just had to ask. Blind pin welds tend to be more durable if subjected to LEO scrutiny. It should index with a crush washer but if not you may want to consider a peel washer instead. This may sound stupid but I figured I would ask anyways... If im soldering it could I possibly use just a regular washer to get it to index properly or does it have to be a peel washer? I ask because after I solder it all they are all going to be one solid unit. Another questions. The crush washers tapered end point down the barrel toward you, right? Thanks SD79 That is correct, the crush washer should be tapered with the small end toward the barrel. |
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They should crush about 1.3 turns or so, enough to index properly unless it was used and didn't retain its original shape. Most can be reused though. Crank harder and use a drop of oil on the threads.
I would go the pinned rt too. Just seems like less of a PITA to me. |
| Having silver soldered and pinned more than one comp/barrrel combination......I much prefer silver solder.............the distortion cause by welding on a supressor comp can and often does make it irreversable...with silver solder..it AIN"T coming of....but is easiliy reversible by turning the supressor down to the major diameter of the threads and peeling the remaining portion with the gentle application of a little heat....I have seen/removed pinned muzzle attachments that after removing the pin (cut the weld and tig a grip on top of the pin...yes it can be done) the ID of the comp was so distorted it destroyed the threads on the barrel when the attempt to uncrew it was made. Properly applied silver solder dosen,t induce the stress in the comp or the break/supressor that a weld does.......and can be removed sucessfully if the need arrises. |
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Quoted:
Having silver soldered and pinned more than one comp/barrrel combination......I much prefer silver solder.............the distortion cause by welding on a supressor comp can and often does make it irreversable...with silver solder..it AIN"T coming of....but is easiliy reversible by turning the supressor down to the major diameter of the threads and peeling the remaining portion with the gentle application of a little heat....I have seen/removed pinned muzzle attachments that after removing the pin (cut the weld and tig a grip on top of the pin...yes it can be done) the ID of the comp was so distorted it destroyed the threads on the barrel when the attempt to uncrew it was made. Properly applied silver solder dosen,t induce the stress in the comp or the break/supressor that a weld does.......and can be removed sucessfully if the need arrises. I've installed and welded muzzle devices with no distortion using a MIG welder. I've removed more of those d@$*$ mini-Y comps off M4 barrels (ban era BM) than I care to remember. (The things you do for friends) Locating the pin or pins and having patience doing some careful cuting yields an undamaged muzzle ready for the new device. It's similer to do you like Ford, Chevy or Dodge. However you attach it most important be sure it'll pass inspection from an interested LEO. |
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I've installed and welded muzzle devices with no distortion using a MIG welder. I've removed more of those d@$*$ mini-Y comps off M4 barrels (ban era BM) than I care to remember. (The things you do for friends) Locating the pin or pins and having patience doing some careful cuting yields an undamaged muzzle ready for the new device. It's similer to do you like Ford, Chevy or Dodge. However you attach it most important be sure it'll pass inspection from an interested LEO. Most people don't have the skill to do it with a MIG and not have it look like shit..... .....and it won't induce anywhere near the distortion that just spotting the top of a pin to a comp with a tig will...........but I still prefer silver solder.......removed one for a guy this morning.....heated the supressor and just screwed it of.......chased the threasd with a 1/2 x 28 die and all was well......and buy using a commercial heat dam compound....didn't discolor the finish at all....
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