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Posted: 4/10/2011 5:55:58 PM EDT
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Hello all
After a long while of researching, thinking, planning, I've decided to go ahead on my first 80% build. I've had a lot of great input from many kind folk both on this site and off it, and estimate this project to take a month or two to complete, since my work schedule is pretty tight as well. The project is a standard A2 style AR-15, nothing special except that it will be used for NM CPM competition, so it will have a few of the choice parts in it while still complying with competition service rifle rules. Also this will be a CA gun, and as such run a convertible bullet button, 10/20 mags, etc. I have a reasonably equipped shop in my garage, no mill but a very old very heavy 13" floor drill that I've had a YZ table on for a while now, plus side bearings, and have completed several successful milling operations up to around 6" depth thus far, so that plus my set of rotary files should prove sufficient unto the day. I might even install a DRO on the Z axis if I feel this project warrants it. Anyway, my first question is on receiver etching: I don't really want to spend a couple hundred on a vinyl cutter plotter with software to drive stencil cutting for engraving for just a handful of masks, and I'm not sure I want to pay the same amount to someone to engrave for me. So, is there someone/someplace that makes precision vinyl masks for etching based on files I send? Online or in the Los Angeles area? Secondly, I'm going to ask the same thing about the anodizing process. Is this the regular anodizing? Or the hardened MilSpec Type III anodizing that people prefer?0 I"m sure I'll have more questions as time goes by. Thanks in advance! Cheers Chris |
| the two I have done I purchased already plated so I didnt have to plate them myself also I had a trophy maker engrave it for me for under 20 bucks and then covered or filled the engraving with paint so its not bare metal..... just make sure when doing the FCG pocket to check and double check your work with the trigger and hammer as not to take to much off or youll have the trouble of the trigger moving side to side and also very important to get the trigger slot right and not to much over from left to right since this will also have an effect on your trigger resetting and your disconnector not operating correctly///// |
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As too the anodizing the home kits i have found from moonlights and caswell plating are both to my understanding type II not type III.
If using a drill press check and see if you have any vertical slop in the chuck, mine had a little that I could not eliminate so I bought a small mill to complete the rest that I bought. Also as VaderSpade warns keep an eye on the chuck, if it comes off it will do some damage. Some mistakes can be fixed with JB industro weld to replace material, but be careful better not to use any. I planned to make many of these so I bought the cutter for the etching masks. So I cant help you with options there. Even then It is a pain to find the right font/letter size for the masks. Post some photos of your progress as I did, it is nice to see others trying this option. |
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Doernuth
Thanks for your reply. My drill is ancient - all cast iron and bearings everywhere - no discernible slop in the chuck or spindle - so I think I'm good to go. Will go with the CNC jig setup when I'm ready to pull the trigger - which will be soon. I've milled several alu pieces for my cars, etc., with this setup before - nothing to this tolerance, but to hundredths, and it worked well enough. I'm researching the etch-o-matic durafilm UV mask making process (etch-o-matic.com) - several of my knife maker buds are using it on steel, so deep etching might work here. Any more comments much appreciated! Cheers Chris |
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Chris-
Your setup sounds better than what I used (Harbor Freight x-axis vise and a benchtop, rickety drillpress). I was pleased with how mine turned out, so like the others said, you just have to go slow and watch your drill for signs of excess wobble. I did follow VaderSpade's advise by applying some loctite to my taper spindle, which seemed to help with the side loading. As for etching, I have a vinyl cutter, and would be willing to work with you on some designs if you want. You can email/IM me if you're interested. I've been thinking of soliciting my services on vinyl stencils on ARFCOM for some time now. I did a little experimenting with the blue Press N Peel mask technique that PCB makers use, but it's vary hard to get right and get the stencil to fuse to the receiver. Vinyl's the only way I've found to get a DIY job to work. Finally, the previous posters are correct in saying that the DIY anodize job is Type II. However, many of us believe that Type II is sufficient for firearms, especially parts that aren't exposed to significant wear (i.e. like the upper wearing against the bolt carrier). Hope this helps a little! Have fun! |
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I use the jig from Tactical Machining and am happy with it. The fact that the base is flat makes life easier than the one that is not, dont recall if that is the colfax or CNC one.
I did my first one on a benchtop drill press with some slop and although it functions well it isn't the prettiest thing ive ever seen so I upgraded to a benchtot x2 mill for the next one. I just got the money to order the anodizing stuff so wish me luck. You can check out my thread here. |
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STATE OF PLAY - 411:
Here's the setup both on my order list and on my to-get list thus far, starting from around mid-March this year. Bits and pieces are starting to trickle in and I'll get the build going when we reach critical mass, and document it here. RESEARCH (started around January 2011) AGI Armorer's video/DVD ('cos I didn't know much about the gun back then. This is, IMHO, the best way to get to know a piece and I own several of them) Martin & Tillman DA Hank's book Glenn Zediker's books, of course various websites, reloading manuals, and the like. LOWER Kevin's lower TM jig on garage drill press with XY table DPMS LRK less trigger Trigger.... hmm. still working on that. JP Enterprises single or the new GC X-treme double action, most probably. Been running the CG triggers on my other pieces and like them a lot. A lot of the custom triggers out there are heavier than the DCM legal 4.5lbs and so even though the price is right and the specs sound great, I've had to pass on most of them. A2 butt off arfcom member, kit completion from Brownells SSS buffer system and spring Twang buster Accuwedge After milling and testing, the piece will be engraved, anodized and then probably Duracoated. UPPER YHM receiver off arfcom EE Bushmaster 20 Govt barrel, 1-9 off arfcom EE RRA float tube, Colt bolt, DPMS BC and CH, off arfcom EE (already headspaced with the barrel extension) WOA 1/4 minute windage, DPMS knob, WOA rear peep drilled and tapped for AR microsight, from another site member Will probably end up with a WOA front sight post but will decide that off the range results Golden State Tactical convertible button and 10/20 mags - note that in DCM matches the regular CA 10 round mag isn't competition spec for service rifles. It has to be the 10/20 or 10/30 ("as USGI profile") mags. AFTER THAT Turner Sling, from arfcom member, Cleaning rigs from Midway and Sinclair/Brownells Gun bag from Midway (only $19!!! sheesh!) Dry fire device from Creedmoor Sports Reloading kit and supplies from Powder Valley and my local ASR reloading shop For NRA HP X Course I already have the rest of the kit, since I've been shooting match rifle competition for awhile. But if you haven't done this go to somewhere like Creedmoor Sports and check out what you need empty chamber indicators good sling shooting jacket offhand ammo leather holder glove and prone mitt mat scope and stand portable shade and hydration and maybe the ubiquitous HP stool that's around $500 minimum for new, right there... which I accumulated and upgraded over the years so the sticker shock was kinda spread out over that time.. AND THEN about $300 in tools, drill bits, Alumina bits, misc parts, reloading dies, brass, bullets, headspace gauge, go/no go gauge, comparator, case gauge, upper and lower receiver jigs, armorer's tools, torque wrench, roll pin starters and punch kits, installation tools, more books, lubes, and the like. Whew! I had a HEAP of help from Eddie over at Nylund Tactical, John Hollinger of WOA, and as ever the people from Midway, Brownells and Creedmoor Sports. And you guys, of course. More news as it breaks. Thanks for reading! C |
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Chris-
I replied to your email about the vinyl stencils. As for some other good stuff, I love my TM jig. I did however, go a little overboard and made my own drill jig plate for spot drilling a ton of 1/8 pilot holes (similar to the CNC jig) to center up larger bits in hogging out the bulk of the FCG pocket. It worked okay, but many people just keep the full size FCG pocket template on their jig and just use that as a guide for drilling out the bulk of their material. I just knew my drill press setup was a little suspect, so I wanted to get as much aluminum out of their as possible for using the endmills. http://members.cox.net/lindt/Images/SAR15_03%20(Small).JPG http://members.cox.net/lindt/Images/SAR15_05%20(Small).JPG Also, another good thing to remember on the jig is to drill the trigger/hammer pin holes first before milling the pocket...it minimizes the chance of drill wobble/walk when going thru two sidewalls. Finally, another good tip for the $$ conscious for etching and anodizing is to look into converting an old PC power supply into a benchtop DC supply. It's pretty easy and there are a few good tutorials on the internet. I did one and it worked great for etching. I'm pretty sure it will work for anodizing, but I haven't tried it yet. But it sure is cheap!!! 
Have fun! 
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| Yep this is very true and a valid point always drill your safety and hammer and trigger pin hole frist and be careful when machining the area where the detent of the safety goes dont go to deep or you will expose your detent slot//// Make your mill is perfectly adjusted and at a true 90 degree from bottom of your FCG pocket so your slot or hole is straight and the same size from top to bottom.... |
Stencils - Just find a local craft/scrap book store. Tell any woman in there that I doubt they could make a vinyl stencil with a CRICUT machine, but you'll pay them if they can. You'll have about 200 volunteers with their little CRICUT machines going full strength. They can easily cut your vinyl stencils. My wife cut out the USAF roundels for an airbrush project of mine - It only cost me $7 because my wife wanted a new blade for the machine. Worked GREAT! Sometimes, I love my wife and her expensive hobbies too!
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Herknav, hello!
Yeah, a family member has one of those Cricut thingies as well - it's a minimum 1/4" letter cut, AFAIK and you have to use their cartridges(?) for various fonts, etc. I'll be using the stencils for small details like serial numbers, etc., so perhaps there's another way to go here... Thanks! Cheers Chris |
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