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AR15.COM
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9/7/2010 8:22:33 PM EDT
I'm new to AR's. I'm proficient at building AK's, so I decided to try my hand on a 6.8 AR build.

Hopefully, I won't hound you guys with a bunch of newbie questions. I try to research things before I ask about them. But I do have one question regarding the FCG holes.

See, I've built my lower from an "80%" forging, and I decided to use a slightly smaller drill bit for the FCG pin holes. So what I have are pins that measure 0.152  and holes that are also exactly 0.152

I can tap the pins in with gentle pressure,it's not a super tight fit, but I want to know if there is some reason that the pins need to be loose. I've seen the nonrotating pins for sale at brownells, so I figure I'm ok, but am I risking wearing out the lower at the pin holes by doing this?

Thanks,
Mike
9/8/2010 2:12:28 AM EDT
[#1]
A tight fit is fine.  Some of the better trigger units come with oversized pins.  It's a good thing!
9/8/2010 12:33:46 PM EDT
[#2]
Thanks. That's what I thought, but it's always best to ask when you go changing things
9/17/2010 6:28:12 PM EDT
[#3]
Well here's the result of my efforts: I'll bring her out to the range this weekend





Stag Arms upper, model 5HL 6.8 spec II 1/11 twist chrome lined (left hand) CRYOTREATED by 300 below!
Sampsom C-Star FFHG
ACLM Ambidextrous Charging Handle
Troy Industries DOA Rear Sight, Black  
Troy Industries HK-Style Front Sight, Black
PRI Gas Block With Top Picatinny Rail

Homefinished lower from 80% 7075 aluminum forging, hand stamped selector markings, heat treated to T6, abrasive blasted and finished in molyresin (built for a lefty )

Magpul Mil-Spec ACS Buttstock, Black
Magpul AR-15/M16 Enhanced Triggerguard
Hogue PG
JP Enterprises Adjustable/Reversible Selector
Norgon Ambi-Catch
Brownells Carbine Stock Completion Kit
Remaining lower parts from DPMS kit

I also have a Nordic 22lr upper on the way.

I welcome your comments, criticisms, etc.
9/17/2010 6:40:47 PM EDT
[#4]
nice work and it looks sweet. do you do the barrel breakin? I did it with my 14 and 18 rifles, kind of a pain but even my 14" guns shoot .5 inch groups
9/17/2010 6:44:12 PM EDT
[#5]


Thanks. I'm not sure, but I don't think it's necessary to break in a chrome lined barrel...
I'm open to opinions on this, as I'm totally new to AR's. With an AK, you just build it and shoot it
9/17/2010 6:57:29 PM EDT
[#6]
Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I plan on doing some 80% lowers in the near future and just want to clarify something. I thought I read somewhere that when you build an 80% that you need to mark it with name, city and state. Am I correct on this?
9/17/2010 7:02:17 PM EDT
[#7]
I hope not, I know it's not required to mark a home-bent AK flat, so I don't see why an AR lower would be any different.
9/17/2010 7:15:03 PM EDT
[#8]
I'm sorry, poked around the interwebs and I was mistaken. Only if you wish to transfer that built weapon to anyone else does the ATF require markings.  

"There are two cases where (according to ATF), privately and lawfully made receivers need to be marked.

1.  The receiver in question is for an NFA-controlled gun.  A standard semiauto AK style rifle would not be an NFA-controlled firearm.  One with a short barrel would be, or an AK "handgun" with a forward grip.  (Actually, there is no question about this requirement –– it's a black-and-white requirement from the 1934 National Firearms Act [as amended].)

2.  You ever transfer the gun to someone else.  Whether by sale, trade, or gift –– ATFE insists that once the gun leaves the possession of the maker, it MUST be properly marked.  They define "proper markings" as basically teh same things required for privately-built lawful NFA guns ––

  Maker's name

  City (or county) and state where build occured

  Model designation (if the maker has assigned one –– you don't have to, even if exactly copying a gun that commercially has a name like the AR15. . . )"
9/17/2010 7:21:01 PM EDT
[#9]
That's what I thought. You had me worried for a second
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