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Posted: 4/13/2010 9:50:35 PM EDT
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Do i need these to build my lower? or can I just use my regular punch set and ball ping hammer? Thank you guys in advance! |
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Yes, you absolutely need them. Regular pin punches will deform the spring pins. You'll also want to consider some roll pin holders/starters too, practically a necessity.
There is also a purpose suited bolt catch pin punch you may think about too. This will allow you to install or remove the bolt catch pin without scratching up the side of your receiver. It's basically a half cut away roll pin punch. It's not necessary, but it does make the job much easier. |
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I am no expert, but I have installed LPKs on 6 lowers with only the tools in my shop. Granted, I probably have more tools than most but I use a small punch, hammer, needle nose, side cutter for shorting a spring if needed, razor knife and a roll of electrical tape.
ETA: I have a set of center punches that are used to mirror existing holes which have a nipple centered and may be like a roll pin punch? I don't know? |
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you do not need them.
i have built thousands of lowers using nothing more than a hammer and a regular punch. the AF converted all of its A1s to A2s. we had 10K rifles on the base I was at so ive got a bit of experience with lower parts installation. it does not deform the pin if you dont wail on it. hold the pin with needle nose or forceps and barely tap it to get it started. you would think that statistically at least one of the pins would have gotten messed up but yet surprisingly. 3 weeks later and every rifle was converted and we had no problems period using standard punches and ball peens. |
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A regular punch set will be fine. You dont NEED roll pin punches. You can also use a pair of vise grips with electric tape over the ends to squeeze in the pins(what I did)Oil the pins 1st. Make sure you mask tape over the lower when you install the bolt catch pin so as you dont slip and scratch it. I also put tape over the end of my punch when driving in the trigger pin and hammer pin.
Also read THIS |
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Quoted: $20 and you'll have a set of important tools that you'll use for the rest of your life. Use the right tool for the job. This advice would save many headaches, if more people would just follow it. Don't be half-assed, use the right tool for the job. Brownell's carries a nice set of roll pin punches and starters. |
| With the relatively low price of roll pin punches, I don't see how you wouldn't want to ensure you had the right tools for the job. Before my next 2 builds, I'm going to add a bolt catch roll pin punch to hopefully make the job even easier than it was before. To me, it's a no-brainer. |
I have been looking for decent quality and affordable punch set fro assembling lowers. this is the link to Brownell's punch set. I'm going to order it today. I wish starter punch didn't cost so much $50 otherwise I would get those as well.
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Quoted:
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$20 and you'll have a set of important tools that you'll use for the rest of your life. Use the right tool for the job. This advice would save many headaches, if more people would just follow it. Don't be half-assed, use the right tool for the job. Brownell's carries a nice set of roll pin punches and starters. +100 |
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There is also a purpose suited bolt catch pin punch you may think about too. This will allow you to install or remove the bolt catch pin without scratching up the side of your receiver. It's basically a half cut away roll pin punch. It's not necessary, but it does make the job much easier. You can make the above with either a sander, grinder or end mill on a regular punch and save the coin. I have done it using regular punches but I love an excuse to buy some hand tools...... |
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You can make the above with either a sander, grinder or end mill on a regular punch and save the coin. I have done it using regular punches but I love an excuse to buy some hand tools...... Very true, but I assumed if the OP didn't already have roll pin punches, he likely didn't have the tools to make his own. EDIT: Don't read into that, not being pompous, sorry if that comes off that way. |
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Do i need these to build my lower? or can I just use my regular punch set and ball ping hammer? Thank you guys in advance! again. no you do not need them. If you allready have tools that will work I say save your money and use them. If you don't mind spending the cash get the special tools. MY lower went together smooth with no problems and no special tool set other than a stock wrench and a jig I made out of a 3/16 inch dowel with a 3/32 hole drilled in it, to get the takedown detents in (they make a tool for this. the only other "special" tool i think you actually might need to buy, those springs are a challenge to keep in without it). My LPK install kit Vise grips Small hammer electric tape 2 punches from a Lowes plain punch set(only used them to set the depth of the pins flush, Installed the pins with taped visegrips and some gun oil) masking tape to cover the reciver near the bolt catch oil needle nosed pliers and the dowel detent spring install tool thing I rigged Not a scratch on her took about 43 min. Besides detents there was never a point where I could see anything making it any easier . It was all pretty simple On the other hand if I had the money to go crazy I would spend a $1000 on a complete AR15/M16 armorers kit just to have one for future fun. |
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Would the set below do the job? or does it need to be a *roll* pin specific set? http://www.lowes.com/pd_142061-1431-22_0_?productId=1016517&Ntt=pin%20punch&Ntk=i_products&pl=1¤tURL=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=pin%20punch$y=0$x=0 For the purpose of this discussion, those are a no-go. The point of a ROLL pin punch set is that they have a nub/tit on the end which holds the punch in place on the pin and helps prevent mushrooming when you're tapping them in. |
I have been building ARs for quite some time and used to tap them in until I saw the "visegrip" method in the tacked tutorials on this forum. Since then I only use that with perfect results every single time. Granted I do have a small rasp to make sure the holes don't have any burrs left from the milling process and due lube all pins before installing them (not just when building ARs). I do have a regular punch I use to get the pins flush with the receiver, but that is nothing special nor complicated. Best thing about that method apart from the simplicity is virtually no marred finish. Again there is a wrong way to do it like everything, but take your time and you'll do fine (should not require excessive pressure to get the pins in). 
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Quoted: I have been building ARs for quite some time and used to tap them in until I saw the "visegrip" method in the tacked tutorials on this forum. Since then I only use that with perfect results every single time. Granted I do have a small rasp to make sure the holes don't have any burrs left from the milling process and due lube all pins before installing them (not just when building ARs). I do have a regular punch I use to get the pins flush with the receiver, but that is nothing special nor complicated. Best thing about that method apart from the simplicity is virtually no marred finish. Again there is a wrong way to do it like everything, but take your time and you'll do fine (should not require excessive pressure to get the pins in). I got bored one night, and decided to build my first AR lower. I had no special tools, but I decided to give it a shot anyway. I read sticky with the method above, wrapped some vice grips in electrical tape, and built 4 lowers lying at the foot of the bed while my girlfriend did school work on her laptop. Easy peazy. |
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I'm sure this is a stupid question, but what's the difference between a roll pin punch and a roll pin starter punch? One to remove, one to assemble? Not a stupid question. A roll pin punch looks just like a regular pin punch, only there is a round nub in the center of the striking surface to support spring pins from the inside, so they don't deform when you are driving them in or out. A roll pin holder is a punch with a short hole drilled in the center of one end. You put a spring pin in the hole and the holder holds it so you can easily get it started straight, without having to worry about slipping and marring expensive parts. Very handy. |
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i got a nice craftsmen set from sears. which was the only place that had them lowes/homedepot and 2 auto parts stores didn't even know what they were Hmmm... I've used electrical tape-wrapped needle nose Vice grips with great results. But there is a Sears nearby, and I will be assembling a lower in the near future. The Craftsman Tools website lists the set at $20 and in stock at my local store. Perhaps I'll check those out. Thanks for the tip Fincho. |
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I just got the roll pin punches and roll pin holders in the mail today from Brownells.
They are well worth the money. I removed a standard trigger gaurd and installed a Magpul enhanced trigger gaurd and it was so easy I almost cried thinking about how careful I have always been using the vice grip method on the ears of my receiver. I'm glad I made this purchase. Well worth the cash. |
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I just got the roll pin punches and roll pin holders in the mail today from Brownells. They are well worth the money. I removed a standard trigger gaurd and installed a Magpul enhanced trigger gaurd and it was so easy I almost cried thinking about how careful I have always been using the vice grip method on the ears of my receiver. I'm glad I made this purchase. Well worth the cash. hilarious [grabs box of tissue for BiteDog] 
which tool made it that much easier? i'm guessing the holders? |
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These are what I use they dont bend as easy as the roll pin pnuches and much smaller and largere sizes than a regular set of roll punches.Cheaper also
These are called transfer punches..I think they have a less chance of bending over regular punches becuase they dont have a large head that you over whack casuing them to bend..This set was $7 at harborfreight or a name brand at sears for around $20. 
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$20 and you'll have a set of important tools that you'll use for the rest of your life. Use the right tool for the job. It is possible to complete the job without them, but you are taking a risk. Especially if you are new to driving spring pins in and out. This is good advice. You don't need them, but why not have them anyways? It will make the job easier and then you have them in the future if you need them. |
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Transfer Punches
Pin Punch Small Set Pin Punch Large Set I'm going for the Transfer Punches for my builds...working on procuring the parts and tools for my first now. I just need to check my shop to see if I already have punches???
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Quoted:
I have been looking for decent quality and affordable punch set fro assembling lowers. this is the link to Brownell's punch set. I'm going to order it today. I wish starter punch didn't cost so much $50 otherwise I would get those as well.
I just bought this set to replace my crappy Lyman punches. They get 2 thumbs up. And I added a taper pin punch to the order. Worth the money if you do more than one FSB in your life (especially a tough one). |
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Quoted:
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I just got the roll pin punches and roll pin holders in the mail today from Brownells. They are well worth the money. I removed a standard trigger gaurd and installed a Magpul enhanced trigger gaurd and it was so easy I almost cried thinking about how careful I have always been using the vice grip method on the ears of my receiver. I'm glad I made this purchase. Well worth the cash. hilarious [grabs box of tissue for BiteDog]
which tool made it that much easier? i'm guessing the holders? Yea those holders are great. They cost $50 I think which I felt like was a lot but they are well worth it. I had some callout OT to spend anyway.
My grandpa told me a long time ago to "use the right tool for the job" and this certainly applies. |
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I bought this 3/32" roll pin punch to install a couple bolt catch roll pins. It works great! Why buy a whole set when all you need is a 1/8" and a 3/32" roll pin punch? And how can you beat $4.05 and $4.37 + free shipping?
3/32" roll pin punch 1/8" roll pin punch |
| Wish I bought roll pin punches on day one. Built 3 lowers with chinese hardware store punches; tips chipping, mushrooming, bending, impaled my anular finger with a punch driving in a forward assist roll pin..bought a set of Protos the next day. They don't bend or deform, real american tools made from good steel. |
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If I purchase this roll pin punch set, will it be a complete set for my AR?
What are the correct sizes for: Bolt catch= Gas tube= Trigger guard= Charging handle= ....not too sure if I'm missing anything that uses a roll pin. |
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If I purchase this roll pin punch set, will it be a complete set for my AR? What are the correct sizes for: Bolt catch= 3/32 Gas tube= 5/64 Trigger guard= 1/8 Charging handle= 1/16 ....not too sure if I'm missing anything that uses a roll pin. A1 sight drum = 1/16 Forward Assist = 3/32 Small pin in front of a trigger guard that holds the spring and detent = 1/16 That set will handle most everything. I would recommend adding the slab side roll pin punch for the bolt catch. It is the easiest way I have found to install and remove the bolt catch roll pin. I don't particularly care for taped vise grips for this pin because the teeth can eat through the tape and cut into the boss. Also, the slab side fits over the "hump" on the receiver when you remove the pin from front to rear. I use a 3/32 most often. It works for almost everything on the lower including acting as a slave pin to assist with the FCG pins and it goes through a clevis pin for the pivot pin installation. It will work for a trigger guard without getting stuck in the receiver like some 1/8" punches do. |
| It really depends on how many lowers you're going to build. If you're building a lot, sure get the right tools. But if you're careful you can get by with what you have. I used standard punches I already had and vice grips since I was building one lower. Now it's a year later and I *may* build another lower. I'll use my standard tools again with no worries. |
Just purchased my roll pin punches & starter punches from "B"...an advertiser here. Used them the first time to start my new upper....roll pin went in smooth-as-silk, no problems. Can't wait to get the rest of the build going. The correct tools make it a "snap".......good investment in the future....listen to advice given here.."G"
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If I purchase this roll pin punch set, will it be a complete set for my AR? What are the correct sizes for: Bolt catch= 3/32 Gas tube= 5/64 Trigger guard= 1/8 Charging handle= 1/16 ....not too sure if I'm missing anything that uses a roll pin. A1 sight drum = 1/16 Forward Assist = 3/32 Small pin in front of a trigger guard that holds the spring and detent = 1/16 That set will handle most everything. I would recommend adding the slab side roll pin punch for the bolt catch. It is the easiest way I have found to install and remove the bolt catch roll pin. I don't particularly care for taped vise grips for this pin because the teeth can eat through the tape and cut into the boss. Also, the slab side fits over the "hump" on the receiver when you remove the pin from front to rear. I use a 3/32 most often. It works for almost everything on the lower including acting as a slave pin to assist with the FCG pins and it goes through a clevis pin for the pivot pin installation. It will work for a trigger guard without getting stuck in the receiver like some 1/8" punches do. Thanks! I forgot about the foward assist. I built my first lower (Spike's) about a year ago with regular punches. Everything was fine but the roll pins got marred up. I have another lower coming in and I have a feeling I might purchase another one in the future. I don't mind investing in the right tools. |
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