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Posted: 3/28/2010 6:40:21 PM EDT
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I am building my first lower and I need a little help. I was doing a function check after installing the hammer and after firing I keep the trigger fully pulled back. When I pull the hammer back, I have to release the trigger just a bit in order for the disconnector to catch. Is this normal?
Thanks. |
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Quoted:
I am building my first lower and I need a little help. I was doing a function check after installing the hammer and after firing I keep the trigger fully pulled back. When I pull the hammer back, I have to release the trigger just a bit in order for the disconnector to catch. Is this normal? Thanks. no. with the trigger all the way back, the disconnector should always grab the hammer. when you let the trigger reset, the disconnector will let go and the hammer will engage the trigger ready for the next round to be fired... |
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that's hard to say
the most common mistake is putting the disconnector spring in upside down. it should go in large side down. also, are you trying this by hand or with the upper/lower assembled? it shouldn't make a difference unless you aren't pushing the hammer all the way back. |
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Quoted:
that's hard to say the most common mistake is putting the disconnector spring in upside down. it should go in large side down. also, are you trying this by hand or with the upper/lower assembled? it shouldn't make a difference unless you aren't pushing the hammer all the way back. The large side is down. I am doing this by hand. I didn't put the upper on. |
| As long as the trigger is held back the hammer is unable to reset. There's a notch in the hammer that catches on the leading edge of the trigger that sets the hammer. If the trigger is held back then the leading edge is lower than the hammer and the hammer has nothing to catch on. Pretty basic really. |
I guess I was a little worried b/c I was following the assembly guide from this site and it said to perform the function check before installing the selector switch.
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"there you go. without the selector,the trigger goes back too far .
install /set it in the reciever and recheck." Are you serious? The hammer and trigger work independent of the safty selector. The safety merely prevents the trigger from rotating down in the front and disingaging from the hammer to prevent discharge in "safe" position. |
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Quoted:
"there you go. without the selector,the trigger goes back too far . install /set it in the reciever and recheck." Are you serious? The hammer and trigger work independent of the safty selector. The safety merely prevents the trigger from rotating down in the front and disingaging from the hammer to prevent discharge in "safe" position. This the selector switch shouldn't prevent the disconnector from working |
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Sorry for the contradictory info, Hellbound is right. I stand corrected.
"Selective fire with a DIAS is obtained due to the M-16 disconnector and selector. When an AR-15 with a DIAS is fired as described above and the selector is placed in the semi-automatic position, the hammer is caught by the disconnector after it is released by the M-16 bolt carrier. The operation of the disconnect in this role is identical to the way an AR-15 operates. When the selector is switched to "AUTO", the selector presses down on the disconnector so that the disconnector hook is no longer able to catch the hammer when the hammer is released by the M-16 carrier. As a result, in the "AUTO" position, the hammer is retained in a cocked position until the carrier comes forward and slams the sear which releases the hammer. The hammer then travels forward until it hits the firing pin and the cycle repeats until the trigger is released." quarterbore.com "FUNCTION CHECK Verify that hammer locks to the rear when pushed back. Verify that hammer pivots forward when trigger is pressed. Without releasing the trigger, push the hammer back again and verify that it locks (caught by disconnector). Releasing the trigger should not cause the hammer to pivot fully forward (caught by trigger). Hammer will fall when trigger is pressed." ar15armory.com If your hammer doesn't catch then the spring isn't working. I would check to see that the disconnector isn't binding on the pin or in the trigger. It should pivot freely. When you did your check did you push your hammer back far enough for it to catch on the disconnector? |
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Quoted:
If you try to test it without the selector in place it allows the trigger to be pulled far enough that the disconnector can not be pushed back by the hammer. The poster that mentioned it earlier is correct. THIS! In order to reaffirm my comments and others who have said that the disconnector cannot be engaged if the selector is NOT in place, I took mine out to verify. The trigger can get pulled too far, and the hammer will not be able to be pushed down to latch onto the disconnector. The disconnector will be at a bad angle and the action will not be allowed to work. I have a DPMS LPK and Noveske lower if that makes any difference, which it should not unless you have different FCG than the standard mil-spec. |
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Mine works the same way as the OP is describing. With the trigger held back, pulling the hammer back requires a little bit of extra force to catch, causing the trigger to ride forward a slight bit to catch. Either both of us got it wrong (I've not finished my build yet), or it's normal on a FCG that hasn't been broken in. It's two pieces of steel coming in contact. One has to give for them to pass and catch, right?
Mine is a RRA kit with a 2-stage trigger. |
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Look at the 7:49 mark in the video here Mine works exactly like this. With the trigger pulled all the way back, I have to let off the trigger, just a hair in order for the two pieces to catch.
I am thinking I am ok. |
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