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11/21/2009 1:23:14 PM EDT
Looking at the Magpul CTR complete kit on PKfirearms.com but its asking me what buffer option i want. What is the difference between these buffers? http://shop.pkfirearms.com/select_options/new/635
11/21/2009 2:18:46 PM EDT
[#1]
Are you replacing a stock you already have?  If so you only need the stock, not the kit.  The question then would be what kind of buffer tube do you have Mil-Spec or Commercial.  You can find out the difference here  You can get either CTR at AIM for $92.15 + 1 cent shipping.  Don't get me wrong PK is good folks too!
11/21/2009 10:42:48 PM EDT
[#2]
Oh sorry I forgot to mention I'm buying all the parts to build an AR from scratch all i have is the lower and lpk so far
11/21/2009 10:48:20 PM EDT
[#3]
What kind of a build are you going with?  That will play a factor in which buffer you might want to order

BTW-Way to go with building your own

and PK Firearms are great to deal with....everytime I ordered from them I received my order within a few days.  There also very helpful in answering your questions
11/21/2009 11:04:18 PM EDT
[#4]
Well I am new to AR's but I'm going to be doing a 16" Mid-Length. I already have a RRA lower & RRA LPK w/ 2 stage NM trigger. Then I'll finish it off with a CTR stock, RRA Mid Length Chrome Lined Light Weight Upper W/ 9" Daniel Omega free floating quad rail.
11/21/2009 11:57:23 PM EDT
[#5]
Take the Enidine out of your choices - it's not needed and expensive for what it is.  The other three are different weights.  Regular is lightest, then "H" and "H2".  Your safest choice is the regular.  It will always work.  You could most likely get away with a "H", but sometimes the "H2" is too heavy, especially with low powered ammo.  So, I would go with the regular.  Once you get it built and everything is working, play with a "H" or "H2" if you want to "smooth" out the action a little.  If you start with the regular and have problems with the build you can pretty much assume it's not the buffer causing the problem.  If you start with the heavier buffer and have problems you would have to eliminate it as one of the causes.

Here is a chart with various buffer weights.  If you move up to a H2 at some point take a look at the Spikes ST T2 for about $30.  It uses a powder instead of weights and is supposed to be smoother.
11/22/2009 6:09:37 AM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
Take the Enidine out of your choices - it's not needed and expensive for what it is.  The other three are different weights.  Regular is lightest, then "H" and "H2".  Your safest choice is the regular.  It will always work.  You could most likely get away with a "H", but sometimes the "H2" is too heavy, especially with low powered ammo.  So, I would go with the regular.  Once you get it built and everything is working, play with a "H" or "H2" if you want to "smooth" out the action a little.  If you start with the regular and have problems with the build you can pretty much assume it's not the buffer causing the problem.  If you start with the heavier buffer and have problems you would have to eliminate it as one of the causes.

Here is a chart with various buffer weights.  If you move up to a H2 at some point take a look at the Spikes ST T2 for about $30.  It uses a powder instead of weights and is supposed to be smoother.


+1 For the Spikes ST-T2…. Best buffer on the market IMO!
11/22/2009 6:54:43 AM EDT
[#7]
Why the commercial version? Not anything wrong with it, granted.

I have an H marked ($15 option there...). That's what .mil runs ;)  I bought a ST-T2 from Spike's and have the H marked sitting in a drawer now. It's quieter, smoother and no "sproing" when shooting you'll get from a normal tungsten ball buffer. If it fits in your budget, I'd highly suggest it.
11/22/2009 5:09:23 PM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
a 16" Mid-Length.


Standard carbine buffer for a 16" middy IMO.

Though i do like the Colt 9mm buffer in a 14.5" standard carbine gassed upper.
11/22/2009 5:46:38 PM EDT
[#9]
I have two mid-length and they have the H buffer, no problems at all. Both 16".
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