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Posted: 9/29/2009 1:22:48 PM EDT
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The real question is, how effective is it? This! I'm basically trying to modify designs until I reach a level of effectiveness that I can live with. Quoted:
Other than backwards looks a lot like the vortex. Looks great! Hope it works out well for you. I basically made the flute pattern (different dimension) of the FSC556 the same length as the vortex flutes and added the compensating port of the surefire muzzle brake (again different dimension). I'm contemplating adding 2 holes pointed upward to reduce muzzle rise like the surefire muzzle brake but I'll test the effectiveness of this combination first. I'll also update this thread later on with info and pics (if I get my camera working) of my testing. Lot's of trial and error here, but much more fun then just buying one. Quoted:
The ports before the flash suppressor tines might make a pretty fireball negating the suppression effect. This is just speculation, but there is only one way to find out! Yeah, I'm afraid of that.. My backup plan there is to replace the port with 4 holes in the corners of the big gap and possibly add the 2 holes upward as well. Will test first and let you guys know! |
Looks great. i think you're going to find that the port creates a huge fireball (depending on powder) but what the hell.
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Too bad you won't make those for other people, the design looks great. Re-edited to remove that tid-bit as I might think about it, need to perfect the design first. Quoted:
Looks great. i think you're going to find that the port creates a huge fireball (depending on powder) but what the hell. http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/458SOCOM/IMG_4493.jpg I figured I wasn't the only one. Maybe if I perfect the design I can make a batch and offer them here on ARFCOM... We'll see. What type of threading does the .458 have? |
| I love experimenting to find the perfect brake for each gun. The 3d rendering is great on the other post as well. While they look like pretty fair knock offs of others designs, what is the purpose? Developing a large fireball as others have suggested eliminates it as a flash supressor and it is obviousy not a muzle brake. Fancy thread protector? |
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I love experimenting to find the perfect brake for each gun. The 3d rendering is great on the other post as well. While they look like pretty fair knock offs of others designs, what is the purpose? Developing a large fireball as others have suggested eliminates it as a flash supressor and it is obviousy not a muzle brake. Fancy thread protector? I hope there isn't a huge fireball, but I won't know until I test it. I'm aiming for recoil reduction and flash suppression. Have any suggestions how to accomplish both without paying $60+? This is my first attempt and the main goal was overcoming the learning curve as I don't plan to use 12L14 for extended periods on my rifles. |
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I love experimenting to find the perfect brake for each gun. The 3d rendering is great on the other post as well. While they look like pretty fair knock offs of others designs, what is the purpose? Developing a large fireball as others have suggested eliminates it as a flash supressor and it is obviousy not a muzle brake. Fancy thread protector? I hope there isn't a huge fireball, but I won't know until I test it. I'm aiming for recoil reduction and flash suppression. Have any suggestions how to accomplish both without paying $60+? This is my first attempt and the main goal was overcoming the learning curve as I don't plan to use 12L14 for extended periods on my rifles. And you will be one of the guys who can say, "This is what will happen because I tried it." I am curious as how well 12L14 will hold up on the end without spreading the tines apart. As the tines are after your side ports this may not be a problem. 12L14 is cheap (70 lbs in a flat rate box for ~20 bucks is the way to go) and machines very well. Not the strongest stuff around, though. |
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And you will be one of the guys who can say, "This is what will happen because I tried it." I am curious as how well 12L14 will hold up on the end without spreading the tines apart. As the tines are after your side ports this may not be a problem. 12L14 is cheap (70 lbs in a flat rate box for ~20 bucks is the way to go) and machines very well. Not the strongest stuff around, though. Yep, cheap and easy to machine is exactly why I'm using it for R&D. I'm considering heat treating it first but it won't harden much as I can't reach the temperature needed... the other thing I was worried about was rust. 12L14 rusts FAST so I may give it a park job in the next few days. Got the camera working finally and will be posting pictures of the progress. Quoted:
You are going to test this one, right? Just because it screws off, doesn't mean you can't test it, just that you check to verify it is still tight after each shot. Affirmative, I'll be testing it to see if the port blows flames and will modify from there. Should be able to get to the range either this weekend or next week sometime. |
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