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Posted: 4/4/2009 1:34:36 PM EDT
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Anyone know how or where to get this done? Believe its done using helicoils. But I have no experience with them. Are they difficult to use/install?
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| Helicoils are no problem to do and you can get them at most full line auto parts stores. In my drag racing days, every thread that was in aluminum was helicoiled, as well as the block where the head bolts to the block. In general you drill out the hole to a larger size, tap it, and twist in the helicoil with the installation tool, break it off and screw in the bolt. Pretty simple if you are a mechanically inclined person. If you're not, I would think any automotive machine shop could do it for you. I would think you could just drill it and tap it for a larger bolt without a helicoil. The advantage to using a helicoil in aluminum is that the threads will last longer when they are constantly taken apart as in maintaining a race motor. |
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HeliCoils are simple and the above comments are all there is to it. That said, buying the kit to install a couple of HeliCoils may not be cost efficient. The coils themselves are pretty cheap but the install kit costs a bit more (it won't break the bank on that special gun). If you're going to do several then you could easily justify the kit. Just out of curiosity why do you need the HeliCoils? Is it because you don't trust putting a machine screw into aluminum? Why don't you like the roll pin? Isn't it just one more thing for your trigger finger to run across? Even though the screw makes it easy to remove the trigger guard, it isn't a part that needs to come off frequently. Is it an aesthetic thing (I kind of like the look)? I too used to do the drag racing thing and as was previously said anything that was aluminum got the coil, spark plug holes, main bolts holes and head bolts holes being among the first. I very much appreciate the HeliCoil but this doesn't seem to be a high stress area. Any reason you just couldn't tap it? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get my head around your thought process. By the way, I've used them all, KeenSerts, QuickSerts, Coil-Serts and HeliCoils etc literally hundreds and hundreds of them. I've seen people campaign one product being better than another (usually in spark plug holes) for one reason or another. I've never found any of them that work any better than HeliCoil and they have a much great availability in a variety of sizes. If a person can't make a HeliCoil work it's likely the installer and not the product. |
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Quoted:
HeliCoils are simple and the above comments are all there is to it. That said, buying the kit to install a couple of HeliCoils may not be cost efficient. The coils themselves are pretty cheap but the install kit costs a bit more (it won't break the bank on that special gun). If you're going to do several then you could easily justify the kit. Just out of curiosity why do you need the HeliCoils? Is it because you don't trust putting a machine screw into aluminum? Why don't you like the roll pin? Isn't it just one more thing for your trigger finger to run across? Even though the screw makes it easy to remove the trigger guard, it isn't a part that needs to come off frequently. Is it an aesthetic thing (I kind of like the look)? I too used to do the drag racing thing and as was previously said anything that was aluminum got the coil, spark plug holes, main bolts holes and head bolts holes being among the first. I very much appreciate the HeliCoil but this doesn't seem to be a high stress area. Any reason you just couldn't tap it? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get my head around your thought process. By the way, I've used them all, KeenSerts, QuickSerts, Coil-Serts and HeliCoils etc literally hundreds and hundreds of them. I've seen people campaign one product being better than another (usually in spark plug holes) for one reason or another. I've never found any of them that work any better than HeliCoil and they have a much great availability in a variety of sizes. If a person can't make a HeliCoil work it's likely the installer and not the product. The hole in the trigger guard is 1/8" to get a screw small enough to fit the lower without modifcation requires a 4-40 screw. 5-40 would fit but its a tight fit. Therefore the 4-40 helcoil is required. Your comments on the cost of the kits is right on. As far as why, I don't like driving the roll pin and came up with the idea. Not that there is anything wrong with the roll pin. This makes assembly of the lower simpler. It's not about modifing an already build lower its about assembly of a new stripped lower. They work well. I'd say that there has been over 200 sold so far with lots of repeat customers. |
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