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Posted: 3/23/2009 9:14:11 AM EDT
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I realize this is a bad time to look into this but funding has just become available. I've been doing some research and think I want to build my own AR the way I want it vs getting one off the shelf. All the gun nuts I work with are telling me I'm stupid because it just sounds easy and the end result will be the same amount of $$ without the work. I'm looking to you guys here for some input on my selected(and undetermined) parts and hopefully some reassurance I can tackle this on my own.
Lower: -EA Stripped Lower Receiver -RRA LPK w/ std trigger -BCM Stock Hardware Mounting kit w/ H or H2 Buffer(which is better?) -Magpul CTR stock -Accu-Wedge -Gapper -Hogue/Ergo Grip Upper: -BCM M4 Flat Top -Charging Handle -LMT Bolt Carrier Group -Barrel- Need Help Locating Barrel that meets the following requirements. -16" 5.56 Nato 1:7 Twist
-Chrome lined
-M4 Feed Ramps
-Threaded to install Smith Vortex Flash Hider(or Muzzle Brake)
Possibly this Sabre Defence Barrel?
-YHM-9383 low profile gas block -Troy Ind Flip Front HK Iron Sight -Mid-Length Gas Tube -YHM Lightweight Free Float Rifle Rail -Troy Ind. Flip Rear Battlesight If I forgot anything please let me know. Lastly, what special tools will I need to assemble everything w/o messing up anything up(ex. lower/upper receiver or barrel?) THanks in advance for all the help/input |
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your friends are right in that you might spend the same amount on your rifle as a "base" store bought one.
but your rifle will be build with better parts, and be an overall better weapon your lower receiver and parts look great iv never built an upper so no help from me there |
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I am pretty new to building myself and i am not going to pretend to know alot more than you. But if you haven't already, check out brownells step by step AR build video clips. They pretty much tell you the tools you will need for each step. A heavy duty multi tool runs about $35.99 right now, and i've seen a whole punch set for about $26. Most of the tools are available through the Arfcom industry partner links and/or easily searched up.
For my two cents on the gas block / handguard: I like the low profile gas block and rifle length handguard on the 16". I bought a lower last week and thats what i plan on going with. The YHM specter XL kit comes with FF tube, end cap, stealth gas block, pretty much everything you need. The stealth gas block has set screws, though, and some people bad talk that here. But that is easily changed out. Also i've read that some people have fitment issues with YHM tubes. They say the rails are a little oversized. It's not a huge issue with me as it is really no problem to carefully needle file the part of the plastic accessories that fits against the rail, then wet sand them smooth. (or metal accessories for that matter) As long as they were only going to be used on that rifle, it wouldn't matter. |
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I'd skip the accu wedge and the gapper until you shoot it and feel the need.
With relation to the upper - why are you buying stripped if you can get an assembled upper (with the door and forward assist) for just a few dollars more? With a 16" barrel, I'd go with a mid-length gas system. A 16" with mid length the buffer weight won't matter as much....but I like to run a heavier buffer (H2) and a full auto bolt carrier group (heavier). Your rail will depend on your rifle. I just ordered a 13.8" Troy rail from Denny's Guns (Global Tactical) I think it looks pretty nice on my 16" upper (I have an 18" with the same rail) and I'm building a "recce" variant so I want rail space for accessories. If you go with a rail that's longer than the gas system, then you'll need a low profile block. I'd also recommend the following: KNS pins for your trigger group (keeps the pins from rotating...I've found them to help with trigger pull and they "supposedly" keep the wear down on your lower receiver.) DPMS Panther claw for installing the barrel to the upper receiver An armorers wrench to help put on the barrel and the stock A decent set of roll pin punches (make sure they are roll pin punches and not just normal punches). Tool King sells them at a reasonable price ...and one final thing....before you put the stock on the lower I'd think about whether or not you want a sling attachment point under the castle nut. This will save you the trouble of possibly assembling, then taking apart, then re-assembling the stock in which case you may launch a spring across the room |
| I figured the accu-wedge & gapper arent expensive in the grand scheme of things so i'd just get them incase. Which is why i should probly just buy an assembled upper even though I plan on installing Noveske's cover. Where did you find the complete YHM Spectre XL kit? I didn't see any complete kits on their website. Whats involved with changing gas block set screws to something else? I forgot to specify but I am planning on using an Auto BCG. Anyone have a preference BCM vs CMT vs LMT? Anyone know who makes barrels that fit my criteria? I've found some with some features but not all, closest I think is a Sabre Defence I seen on BravoCompanyUsa.com, any good? |
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Quoted: I realize this is a bad time to look into this but funding has just become available. I've been doing some research and think I want to build my own AR the way I want it vs getting one off the shelf. All the gun nuts I work with are telling me I'm stupid because it just sounds easy and the end result will be the same amount of $$ without the work. I'm looking to you guys here for some input on my selected(and undetermined) parts and hopefully some reassurance I can tackle this on my own. Lower: -EA Stripped Lower Receiver I haven't heard much good or bad about EA lowers... I prefer to use CMMG or Double Star personally, but this isn't to say EA won't work just as well. -RRA LPK w/ std trigger Sounds good. -BCM Stock Hardware Mounting kit w/ H or H2 Buffer(which is better?) I wouldn't get a heavier buffer unless you need it. Torn casing would be the only reason I would change from the standard. -Magpul CTR stock Excellent choice... These fit really snugly, very little wobble. -Accu-Wedge -Gapper -Hogue/Ergo Grip I don't like them... too "gooey" for me. But, if you like it... Upper: -BCM Stripped M4 Flat Top BCM is great... -Fwd Assist Assembly -Noveske Eject Port Cover(I have to get hinge, pin, & snap ring to install, correct?) -Charging Handle -BCM/CMT/LMT Bolt Carrier Group (any 1 better than the other? all $130 @ bravocompanyusa.com) I would get LMT... I would not get CMT. -Barrel- Need Help Locating Barrel that meets the following requirements. -16" 5.56 Nato 1:7 Twist -Chrome lined -M4 Feed Ramps -Threaded to install Smith Vortex Flash Hider(or Muzzle Brake) -YHM-9394-H gas block w/ Flip Sight -or low profile gas block(any reccomendations?) with Troy Ind Flip Front HK Iron Sight(Tritium worth it?) -Gas Tube(Mid or Rifle? I heard Rifle is better& CMMG has 16" barrels w/ the rifle length gas system so I know its possible, any benefit to doing it?) I have heard that 16" barrels with rifle length gas have problems with lower pressure ammunition. I would go for a carbine length gas system... the systems runs on higher pressure so you get more power for extraction and such. -YHM Lightweight Free Float Rail (What Length? Carbine/Mid/Rifle?) -Troy Ind. Flip Rear Battlesight(is the tritium worth it?) If I forgot anything please let me know. Lastly, what special tools will I need to assemble everything w/o messing up anything up(ex. lower/upper receiver or barrel?) THanks in advance for all the help/input One thing you might consider is just buying your upper complete... from what I have researched, you save money buying it as an assembly. I like the CMMG uppers... with the ones I have used, and friends have used, there are 6 of them that I personally know work 100% from the factory. The fit and finish is really nice. |
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The kits are listed on Mooney's but they are out of stock right now. Just google"Specter xl kit" and you should pull up several sites. Most seem to be out of stock atm, not surprising.
And if you didn't like the set screws on the specter gas block, you could just find a low profile pinned gas block to substitute. Check out the pic on mooney's though. I love the look of that setup. |
| idk about the complete upper being cheaper w/ the things i want. Pricing a CMMG w/ my option gets me around 1100-1200 just for the upper ballpark in pieces i'm around $800 i think. I'm keeping a reserve fund for shipping/fees/etc. Just trying to determine exact parts I want/need, then price shop from there. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I realize this is a bad time to look into this but funding has just become available. I've been doing some research and think I want to build my own AR the way I want it vs getting one off the shelf. All the gun nuts I work with are telling me I'm stupid because it just sounds easy and the end result will be the same amount of $$ without the work. I'm looking to you guys here for some input on my selected(and undetermined) parts and hopefully some reassurance I can tackle this on my own. Dude.. Do it yourself. It is easy. Your "gun nut" colleagues may just be slow.  I haven't ever bought an AR off the shelf. With parts in hand, I don't think it even took me two hours to build my first one, and I took my time on every part. Now I bet I build them about as fast as I clean them. 
Lower: -EA Stripped Lower Receiver I haven't heard much good or bad about EA lowers... I prefer to use CMMG or Double Star personally, but this isn't to say EA won't work just as well. I haven't heard any bad comments. I hear nice finish. -RRA LPK w/ std trigger Sounds good. yep. -BCM Stock Hardware Mounting kit w/ H or H2 Buffer(which is better?) I wouldn't get a heavier buffer unless you need it. Torn casing would be the only reason I would change from the standard. I tend to agree but I'd like to know the barrels gas system before I said for sure. I would probably consider an "H" in a carbine length. -Magpul CTR stock Excellent choice... These fit really snugly, very little wobble. I've got one. I like it, its nice and light. If you are thinking of hanging lights, lasers, etc. you may want to consider something heavier to help balance the gun better. -Accu-Wedge -Gapper -Hogue/Ergo Grip I don't like them... too "gooey" for me. But, if you like it... I like the "gooey" grippy Ergo. I hear the Hogue fits bigger hands, I'd like to try it out. I wish the Magpul MIAD came over molded. Upper: -BCM Stripped M4 Flat Top BCM is great... yep. -Fwd Assist Assembly -Noveske Eject Port Cover(I have to get hinge, pin, & snap ring to install, correct?)yeah, and the spring as well. -Charging Handle Make sure it is forged. If it doesn't say it's forged assume it isn't and that it will bend. -BCM/CMT/LMT Bolt Carrier Group (any 1 better than the other? all $130 @ bravocompanyusa.com) I would get LMT... I would not get CMT. I would recommend any BCG from this post Preferred M16 and AR15 Bolt Carrier Groups Try to stick with full auto (M16) to take advantage of the extra weight. -Barrel- Need Help Locating Barrel that meets the following requirements. Good luck, and come back with a decision on your gas system length. More info is needed before we can even make a recommendation. -16" 5.56 Nato 1:7 Twist
-Chrome lined
-M4 Feed Ramps
-Threaded to install Smith Vortex Flash Hider(or Muzzle Brake) Popular choice and one of the best flash suppressers out there. This thread may interest you for more opinions. Preferred Flash Hider/Muzzle Brake/ Compensator
-YHM-9394-H gas block w/ Flip Sight I haven't used this but I'd imagine that it would get pretty hot. -or low profile gas block(any reccomendations?) with Troy Ind Flip Front HK Iron Sight(Tritium worth it?) Kinda vague here. I'm not sure if you mean low pro gas block with free float railed hand guard covering the block (my preferred method) -or- a railed gasblock with the Troy (hot?). If these will be your primary sights I would understand wanting the Tritium. If they are just going to be used as back ups I wouldn't bother.
-Gas Tube(Mid or Rifle? I heard Rifle is better& CMMG has 16" barrels w/ the rifle length gas system so I know its possible, any benefit to doing it?) I have heard that 16" barrels with rifle length gas have problems with lower pressure ammunition. Agree.I would go for a carbine length gas system... the systems runs on higher pressure so you get more power for extraction and such. I prefer 16" barrels with mid length gas system. It is more smooth. This allows for faster followup shots. This is constantly debated and never settled. Both systems work well. -YHM Lightweight Free Float Rail (What Length? Carbine/Mid/Rifle?)What length gas system? That is a bit part of your answer. Personally, with the parts you have mentioned I would go with; mid length gas, low pro block to go under a 12.5" YHM rail, and the Troy flip up. -Troy Ind. Flip Rear Battlesight(is the tritium worth it?) See above. If I forgot anything please let me know. Lastly, what special tools will I need to assemble everything w/o messing up anything up(ex. lower/upper receiver or barrel?) The only thing that I do that is (I believe) not mentioned in the tacked thread is use a drill press with a punch to insert some roll pins (not turned on, of course). THanks in advance for all the help/input One thing you might consider is just buying your upper complete... from what I have researched, you save money buying it as an assembly. I like the CMMG uppers... with the ones I have used, and friends have used, there are 6 of them that I personally know work 100% from the factory. The fit and finish is really nice. Welcome to the forum It looks like you have been doing your homework. Pretty impressive product knowledge for a first post.
Build it yourself and take pride in the fact that you hand selected and installed every part of your AR. BTW: It is hard to say exactly, but your build will be pretty light. Somewhere around 7-7.5 pounds. Quoted:
Anyone know who makes barrels that fit my criteria? I've found some with some features but not all, closest I think is a Sabre Defence I seen on BravoCompanyUsa.com, any good? Very good choice and well respected here. |
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Quoted:
-Gas Tube(Mid or Rifle? I heard Rifle is better& CMMG has 16" barrels w/ the rifle length gas system so I know its possible, any benefit to doing it?) -YHM Lightweight Free Float Rail (What Length? Carbine/Mid/Rifle?) [/div] Looks like an excellent list. As for the barrel, the rifle lenth gas system is the original. As such, it is the most reliable system with the softest recoil pulse when use with a rifle length barrel. I haven't heard much feedback on the 16" rifle length systems, but CMMG can make pretty much whatever you want. I have a CMMG upper and it's extremely nice. I'd go with a middy personally, as it's the best compromise between barrel length and gas system length IMO - known and established reliability. As for the YHM...decent product, but I've also heard of fitment issues. Midwest Industries puts out a good product that's relatively inexpensive. I'd check them out first. |
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Quoted:
I revised my initial post to reflect recent decisions. Buffer and barrel are all that I need opinions/suggestions on now. With the buffer I can't say for sure. Buy two, they aren't that expensive. See which works better for your bolt carrier, ammo, buffer spring, etc. As for barrels, I like Noveske, Superior Barrels, and Sabre. Of those, Sabre is the only one that truly fits your requirements. |
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Quoted: I revised my initial post to reflect recent decisions. Buffer and barrel are all that I need opinions/suggestions on now. I would just get the standard weight buffer from BCM... It works great in carbine and mid-length in my experience... Try it out.... if you tear a casing, you will need the heavier option. If you notice deformation of the base from the extractor, consider a heavier buffer. I doubt you will have this problem... |
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