AR Sponsor
Posted: 2/24/2009 1:52:10 PM EDT
I got bored at work and made a titanium comp for my 20" AR. Honest opinion do you guys think it looks gay on my rifle?
|
| All the work was done on a CNC lathe, the slots and flats were cut with live tooling on the lathe. I havent shot it yet but i think it will work good. This thing is about half the weight of the standard A2 flashider but alot stronger. As for price im not sure how much they would be to make. I would have to buy some more Titanium and the stuff is not cheap. Im not sure what a fair price would be for them. |
So i finally got it to the range it worked great, it seemed to have quite a bit less recoil than my other AR. I put about 100 rounds through it and there is no discoloration on it. I had a gomer moment and droped the barrel on the ground from about 6 in. of the ground and it didnt mark it at all so it passed the toughness test this stuff is amazingly strong. Im happy with it. Im going to probleble try to make about 5 of them tomarow at work i have to pay for material and machine time so they would problebly run about $55ish each. Let me know what you guys think and thanks for all your imput. I will post them in the EE let me know if anyones intrested in one. I will let you guys know for sure if i get them made tomarow.
|
|
I make all my own brakes for 223, 308, etc. I also make my own AR and MOR barrels using match blanks from Lilja and Broughten.
For the side slots..you might want to stop the endmill so that the bottom edge of the EM cut is where the bottom radius starts for those guys who are worried about dust signature, to increase upward pressure, and to make it a little stronger. What is your through hole? You MUST compensate for poor barrel thread machining or people are going to have bullet strikes. All my 223 brakes(not used on my own AR barrels) now come with .275" through holes. I used to do .250" but that proved not to be enough clearance for some crappy barrels. You might want to drill the through hole then cut the side slots and then drill, ream/bore, and tap the 1/2-28" threads all the way to the first port. That will shorten up your OAL(cost per part  ).
I make all my comps threaded to the first port so you can see the crown for cleaning, shorter OAL, etc. Keep in mind you must allow for a washer and you don't want the threads past the end of the barrel by very much. By doing this you might be able to add a 5th port which may help effectiveness. On most brakes the gap from the end of the barrel to the end of the thread drill hole with accumulate carbon. I don't know if you are threading with a bar or tap but even if you had to manually finish the thread depth outside of the machine it would be better. As for the side flats I make brakes both ways––no side flats and side flats on the beginning of the brake only. I don't run side flats all the way down the ports to keep the baffle area as high as possible. I reccommend peel washers even though they are harder to use. If you can compare it to a Miculek comp people would get a good idea of how well it works. Most important factors would be upward rise and side movement. Price may be a small selling point problem if you say it's going to cost $55 just for material plus your time to make. I do remember buying fancy fishgill brakes back in the mid'90s for $100-150 though so I'd bet if you get the design down you could sell some of them for sure. Some people will always pay top $$ for something cooler, lighter, exotic, etc I'd be happy to offer any design/testing help to you I can. Nick |
AR Sponsor