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Posted: 2/16/2009 7:19:26 AM EDT
I have a buffer tube nut stuck on a DPMS lower. It is a mil spec buffer & it came assembled from R-Guns. I am using a buffer tube nut wrench from AIM. I'm trying to install a sling plate. Any help would be appriciated before I fubar this thing thanks!
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Quoted:
I have a buffer tube nut stuck on a DPMS lower. It is a mil spec buffer & it came assembled from R-Guns. I am using a buffer tube nut wrench from AIM. I'm trying to install a sling plate. Any help would be appriciated before I fubar this thing thanks!Do you have the lower on a magwell vice block and clamped in a vice? |
| No, I am using a variation of the two wrench method of tightening/loosening hydraulic lines. Position the wrenches so that they can be squeezed together. I am using the grip as the other "wrench". I am using this because it keeps lines from becoming in a bind & provides extraleverage in small (short wrench) areas. I can get a vise block & try this, but I'm not having trouble keeping the lower from moving. Is it usual for it to require this much oomph, as a heavy equipment mechanic, I've got plenty of oomph & have used it to destructive results before. Thanks again! |
I did try heat, took out all springs possible & put it in the oven for about ten at 300 degrees. I have a master heat gun at work I'll try also. I didn't see any staking marks unless they are in the little holes on the reciver side. If you let me know how to get the pictures off of my phone, I'll post them. The add image button wants an URL. I'm sure its simple, but I've never come across it!
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Quoted:
I did try heat, took out all springs possible & put it in the oven for about ten at 300 degrees. I have a master heat gun at work I'll try also. I didn't see any staking marks unless they are in the little holes on the reciver side. If you let me know how to get the pictures off of my phone, I'll post them. The add image button wants an URL. I'm sure its simple, but I've never come across it!
Heating the whole thing is doing you no good whatsoever. You want to isolate heat into the castle nut with a heat gun and small tip. It should come right off then with a little elbow grease. |
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Red loctite is what the oven heat was for, ill bring my heat gun for tomorrow, put about 1800degrees from nozzel to it. didnt want to use the propane, didn't know what that would do to the finish but propane is what I usually use on loctited bolts & slip fit assemblies. Couldn't get a magwell block today, but will order one for future use. figured out the pictures. Once again everyone I appreciate it & will keep you posted.
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss210/derekbryant/16-02-09_1337-1.jpg http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss210/derekbryant/16-02-09_1338.jpg http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss210/derekbryant/16-02-09_1339.jpg http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss210/derekbryant/16-02-09_1340.jpg |
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Got it off with a combination of heat, peening, & hammering the wrench finally. Dang thing was loctited on. now to see how to refinish the nut! here is a pic of the loctite, sorry about the fuzzy pictures, they are from my cell. Gonna clean with brake clean while still thinned out. Thanks again everyone!
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss210/derekbryant/18-02-09_0002.jpg |
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