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10/17/2008 3:53:09 PM EDT
I am looking to find a tool that was once sold by DPMS called a front Sight Alignment Tool.  It was part number TL-FSA.  It is a long pointy rod that you put in the handle and it points at the front sight to check if it's aligned correctly.  It's not made anymore.  Does anyone know someone that might still have one on the shelf, or have one that they would be willing to sell??

10/17/2008 10:16:25 PM EDT
[#1]
Just take a ball point pen.  Turn it one click at a time.  That's what I used in the army.
10/17/2008 10:48:47 PM EDT
[#2]

Quoted:
Just take a ball point pen.  Turn it one click at a time.  That's what I used in the army.


That’s not what he’s asking about.

He’s looking for a tool that aligns the front sight base with the rear sight.    
10/18/2008 4:53:43 AM EDT
[#4]
Tried this place.  Actually, I believe that this is two names for the same place.  Asked about 8 times during the phone call if they actually had one in stock.  Was assured that they did.  They canceled my order a couple of days later when they found out they didn't have one and could not get one.  Still listed on their web site.  Bunch of idiots.  
10/18/2008 5:04:12 AM EDT
[#5]
That’s too bad, I thought I had you hooked up.  

Have you thought about making your own tool out of bar stock?

Another option which I use, is to flip the upper receiver up-side-down on a smooth level surface such as the kitchen counter. Resting in that position, if the FSB is not level with the rear of the CH it’s easy to see.


ETA: Can you give me more details on what your trying to accomplish?
10/18/2008 7:51:33 AM EDT
[#6]
Since you are looking for an alignment bar that costs over $100 if you can find it, why not spend the same money on some modern tech?



From here.

www.vansantent.com/digital_levels.htm

Place upper in reciever block and clamp in vice.  Measure across reciever pic rail or wings beside the sight, then match angle at the front sight.  Since it measures down to the .1 of a degree it should have your sights aligned pretty dead nuts on.

I used the low buck approach, but same principal.

Just an angle finder like this one, costs about $10.  Set it on the reciever pic rail, adjust marker to where the needle is, and make the FSB match it.



Sight in took 5 clicks of windage.

Maybe I'm just too simple for all this gun tech stuff, used to having to figure out how to make stuff work with whats on hand.  While I may fit in with the whole WECSOG thing, I prefer double wide engineering.
10/18/2008 5:22:21 PM EDT
[#7]
Problem is that I need 24 clicks left on the rear sight to get it sighted in.  I suspect that the front sight base may be tilted.

I am thinking about making one but need to be sure that it's arrow straight.

10/18/2008 5:44:01 PM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:
Problem is that I need 24 clicks left on the rear sight to get it sighted in.  I suspect that the front sight base may be tilted.

I am thinking about making one but need to be sure that it's arrow straight.



Sounds like the barrel shifted a bit when the barrel nut was torqued.  Someone posted a similar problem a while back and the general consensus was to take a rubber mallet and smack the shit outa the front sight towards the ejection port side of the rifle.  Alternately, just loosen up the barrel nut, rotate the barrel to the right and try to hold it there when you retorqe it.  

Buying/building a sight alignment bar is a bit much effort/expense to tell you what you already know (something is outa whack).  Few minutes in the shop will have it fixed.

There's a fairly large tolerance when it comes to aligning the sights, they don't have to be perfect, just closer than they are right now.
10/18/2008 7:05:22 PM EDT
[#9]
Sounds like your barrel indexing is off. Might need to loosen up the barrel nut, then try again.

Let me know if you need more info.
10/19/2008 12:07:26 PM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:
I am thinking about making one but need to be sure that it's arrow straight.
First, measure the width of the groove in the carry handle as accurately as you can.  Then convert that to 64ths of an inch.  This number tells you the diameter of ARROW you would need to fit in that groove.  Aluminum arrows are numbered in two segments, the first number (two digits) tells the outside diameter in 64th's of an inch which is what is important here.  So, a groove 1/4" wide would be 16 64th's.  From looking at the Easton aluminum arrow charts, it appears the smallest diameter arrow you could purchase would be 20/64 (.3125") and the largest is 25/64 (.3906").  An aluminum arrow should pretty much work the way the item Quib showed would work unless the diameter needs to be greater.   The arrow can be purchased with a threaded insert for a field point that would give you the center point.
This might be a much cheaper alternative once you determine the width of the groove in the carry handle.
10/20/2008 4:56:31 PM EDT
[#11]
gee, math is hard.
10/20/2008 5:07:08 PM EDT
[#12]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I am thinking about making one but need to be sure that it's arrow straight.
First, measure the width of the groove in the carry handle as accurately as you can.  Then convert that to 64ths of an inch.  This number tells you the diameter of ARROW you would need to fit in that groove.  Aluminum arrows are numbered in two segments, the first number (two digits) tells the outside diameter in 64th's of an inch which is what is important here.  So, a groove 1/4" wide would be 16 64th's.  From looking at the Easton aluminum arrow charts, it appears the smallest diameter arrow you could purchase would be 20/64 (.3125") and the largest is 25/64 (.3906").  An aluminum arrow should pretty much work the way the item Quib showed would work unless the diameter needs to be greater.   The arrow can be purchased with a threaded insert for a field point that would give you the center point.
This might be a much cheaper alternative once you determine the width of the groove in the carry handle.


Do you guys realize that if we were on the metric system we would not have had to learn fractions in math?
64ths is silly to me, but it is what it is.

Bill
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