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Posted: 9/13/2008 3:48:27 PM EDT
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What should I use to knock the pins loose? A FSB starter punch from Brownell's or 5/16 brass punch? Or both? PS - What gets brass markings off park'd steel? |
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Don't even try a brass punch. You will mushroom it. Use a steel punch about the same size as the pins. Left to right for tapered tins with a solid support behind the FSB. Some can be very difficult...just a forwarning so you don't panic if it doesn't just "pop" out. mince |
+1 * Go smaller side to bigger side of the pins - could potentially be either way. I've seen at a couple of each direction, and I've only removed 4 FSBs so far (one DPMS, one Olympic, and two Wilson). If you don't have a solid support, you will just bend your punch. I use the back side (anvil) of my vise with a shop rag thrown over it so it doesn't scratch the crap out of the FSB, and I hang just the pin that I'm wailing on off the end, so it doesn't whack the anvil. If you drive the pin into the anvil/support surface so it can't move, you'll just bend your punch.  I've returned three sets of punches w/lifetime warranties to Harbor Freight now, and I finally know how to remove one without breaking any punches. 
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Lowes, HDepot, WalMart, SEARS. I believe it was at Lowes where I saw a 3-pack of nail sets. The 3-set would be perfect for FSB pins. One size for each end of the pin. I currently only have one nail set, a Craftsman 4/32nd that I use for both ends of the pin. It works, but a set of different sizes would be nice. __________________________________________________________________________________ ETA: As you can see from these pictures below, the nail set has a concave face, which fit’s the FSB taper pins head perfectly. This fit prevents a stubborn taper pins head from becoming mushroomed or flattened, which can often times happen if using a standard flat-faced pin punch. The concave face of the nail set also prevents slippage which can mar or scratch your FSB.   |
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