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8/12/2008 7:19:25 PM EDT
Can you thread a barrel for an A2 flash hider with hand tools?   I have a Bushmaster A2 20" in postban config.  It is stepped down for a flash hider but it isnt threaded.
8/13/2008 5:05:08 AM EDT
[#1]
The end has to be the proper diameter for threading. My Machinery's Handbook is telling me .4989 to .4924. Then you can use a hand die on it.
8/13/2008 5:57:59 AM EDT
[#2]
I would do it in a lathe.
I think alignment is going to be best when it's all chucked up.
8/13/2008 9:01:11 AM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
I would do it in a lathe.
I think alignment is going to be best when it's all chucked up.


+1 for best results you want those threads centered on the bore, not the outside diameter of the barrel.
8/13/2008 5:14:38 PM EDT
[#4]
If the diameter is right, you can use a Thread alignment tool with a die to cut the threads.  I have a bushmaster carbon15 dedicated 22lr that I wanted to thread.  It's diameter was .560 or 1/16 over 1/2 inch.  I opened the die up a little and started cutting.  After I got the depth I wanted, I started tightening the die until my flash hider fit snug, but not too snug.

A little cold blue to touch up the end and worked fine.  You can get the die and TAT from brownells, or a kit from precise innovations (but they are little more expensive)

8/15/2008 9:45:10 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
Can you thread a barrel for an A2 flash hider with hand tools?   I have a Bushmaster A2 20" in postban config.  It is stepped down for a flash hider but it isnt threaded.


Have it done on a lathe.
8/16/2008 4:50:42 AM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:
If the diameter is right, you can use a Thread alignment tool with a die to cut the threads.  I have a bushmaster carbon15 dedicated 22lr that I wanted to thread.  It's diameter was .560 or 1/16 over 1/2 inch.  I opened the die up a little and started cutting.  After I got the depth I wanted, I started tightening the die until my flash hider fit snug, but not too snug.

A little cold blue to touch up the end and worked fine.  You can get the die and TAT from brownells, or a kit from precise innovations (but they are little more expensive)



By the time you buy the tools and pay the $10 shipping, you're within $10-15 of what it'll cost you to have it done on a lathe, by a properly equipped shop. To me, it's not worth the risk of screwing up, to save $10.
8/16/2008 6:42:19 AM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:

By the time you buy the tools and pay the $10 shipping, you're within $10-15 of what it'll cost you to have it done on a lathe, by a properly equipped shop. To me, it's not worth the risk of screwing up, to save $10.


Or if you like to DIY and have 3 barrels you want to thread like I did, plus later on a 10/22 barrel. then you save quite a bit of cash.  I must have been really lucky, as I didn't screw up any barrel and they all turned out fine.   Really, I don't know why everybody jumps on here and says its so hard to thread a barrel with a TAT and die and they just have to use a lathe.
8/16/2008 10:22:41 AM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:

Quoted:

By the time you buy the tools and pay the $10 shipping, you're within $10-15 of what it'll cost you to have it done on a lathe, by a properly equipped shop. To me, it's not worth the risk of screwing up, to save $10.


Or if you like to DIY and have 3 barrels you want to thread like I did, plus later on a 10/22 barrel. then you save quite a bit of cash.  I must have been really lucky, as I didn't screw up any barrel and they all turned out fine.   Really, I don't know why everybody jumps on here and says its so hard to thread a barrel with a TAT and die and they just have to use a lathe.


For three barrels I agree, but the original poster only has one.
8/16/2008 3:40:10 PM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:

Quoted:

By the time you buy the tools and pay the $10 shipping, you're within $10-15 of what it'll cost you to have it done on a lathe, by a properly equipped shop. To me, it's not worth the risk of screwing up, to save $10.


Or if you like to DIY and have 3 barrels you want to thread like I did, plus later on a 10/22 barrel. then you save quite a bit of cash.  I must have been really lucky, as I didn't screw up any barrel and they all turned out fine.   Really, I don't know why everybody jumps on here and says its so hard to thread a barrel with a TAT and die and they just have to use a lathe.


Why?

Easy; threading it on a lathe is the right way to do it, while doing it with a die is a half-assed method.  It's really that simple.
8/16/2008 5:42:09 PM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:

Why?

Easy; threading it on a lathe is the right way to do it, while doing it with a die is a half-assed method.  It's really that simple.


Could you elaborate on how it is a half-assed method?  Have you done it? So far, myself and several others have used a TAT and die with great success and can see no difference between a lathe cut barrel and a die cut using both muzzle devices and supressors.
8/16/2008 5:44:14 PM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:

Quoted:

By the time you buy the tools and pay the $10 shipping, you're within $10-15 of what it'll cost you to have it done on a lathe, by a properly equipped shop. To me, it's not worth the risk of screwing up, to save $10.


Or if you like to DIY and have 3 barrels you want to thread like I did, plus later on a 10/22 barrel. then you save quite a bit of cash.  I must have been really lucky, as I didn't screw up any barrel and they all turned out fine.   Really, I don't know why everybody jumps on here and says its so hard to thread a barrel with a TAT and die and they just have to use a lathe.


The TAT and a die may be fine with a flash suppressor that has a large opening and plenty of clearance but I wouldn't trust it with a brake (never with a suppressor) since the exit hole is usually about .030 larger than the bullet. Any misalignment means a bullet strike.
8/16/2008 5:54:26 PM EDT
[#12]
I had minedone locally for $60 on a lathe by a good gunsmith/machinist.  If that wasn't an option I would have sent it to ADCO.
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