AR Sponsor
Posted: 7/16/2008 6:34:57 AM EDT
|
It started out easy enough. Put the lower on a block and used another thin one to support the ears. I got everything lined up and started driving in the pin with my mallet. But after getting the pin about 3/4 of the way in, it won't go any any farther, no many how many taps with the hammer I give it. And I'm afraid to use any more force than I am, in fear of breaking the ears. What is the problem here? Looking through the hole, I can see the perfectly round hole that runs through the pin. So obviously it is going in straight all the way. So why does this thing refuse to travel the last of the 25% of the path? I even put a drop of oil in each of the ear holes before I started to slick things up a bit. I never had this much trouble with the bolt release pin. It took a while to get it all the way through, but I could tell I was making good progress. This one just doesn't seem to wanna go one bit farther. I don't wanna force the issue and break something. Sigh. This is my first build. I had hell with the front pivot pin spring and detent. Now I am having hell with this thing. Any advice? |
I'm giving that at try. But at this time, I don't appear to be having much more success trying to pull the pin back out than I had trying to insert it. Of course I just have a shitty pair of pliers with taped jaws for the task. |
Ah well, thanks for the suggestions. But this pin is just flat stuck. I can't get it out with the tools I have at my disposal. Looks like I'll have to take this damn thing to my local gunsmith tomorrow and see if he can do anything with this pin that is either over-sized or has ears holes that are under-sized. So much for the "do-it-yourself" ease of parts kit guns. If my mind don't change, this will be both my first and my LAST one. The money saved over buying a new gun already put together just isn't worth all the hassles. 
|
I put a drop of CLP on it right before I started and rubbed it all over the pin. It was slick as snot. But obviously, it didn't help. The pin is now completely stuck. I can't drive it in any further and no amount of force I can apply with the tools I have will permit me to pull it back out. I've given up on it and will take it to the gunsmith tomorrow. Hopefully he will have the tools necessary to get this bastard out of there. But trips to a gunsmith kind of defeat the purpose of building your own. If the damn part was the proper size, this should not have been a problem. I watched DVD_Tracker's youtube build video and he had his roll pin driven all the way in with less than 10 light taps. This one you couldn't get through with a 25 lb sledgehammer. 
|
| Always use a roll pin punch. To get your roll pin back out -- drill a slightly larger hole in a flat piece of hard wood, place the protruded pin in the hole (Your using the hard wood as a backing to trigger ear) and use your roll pin punch to drive the roll pin back out. Then re-install using any of the good ideas others have expressed to you. Good luck and patience is a virtue. |
| Ive had problems with dpms and m1 sales roll pins. You can very easily break your lower if you're not careful. Double star roll pins and some of the others were easy to install. Consider buying another roll pin made of thinner metal, they are not all made the same. The Magpul MIAD grip full set is by far the best option, better than trying to force the pin back in |
|
Wow its just a roll pin. Remember that game children would play with the little colored geometric shaped blocks, where you fit the circular block through the circular hole, and the square-shaped block through the square-shaped hole... If it doesn't fit then something is wrong. Use your eyes and inspect the holes, see if there is a burr or if they even they line up, verify that with like a 1/16 punch. If you can't PULL the pin back out, tap it out from the other side. Use some balls too, there is a reason why women don't work in autoshops. If you tap the pin into a block of wood the wood will capture the pin, you don't need to drill a hole for the pin to fall into; the pin will embed itself in the wood. Once you do that, inspect the pin to see if it is boogered up or something to that extent that would cause it to bind. If the pin is ok, try tapping it through the other side of the receiver to see if that hole is cool. If that hole is cool and the other one is being stubborn, you can either a) chamfer the bad hole or drill it out with the correct bit, or b) just install the trigger guard roll pin from the other side. If the pin is obviously damaged/peened/boogered up then you need another roll pin. But this isn't rocket science, its the game children play with the little geometric shaped blocks and holes. If its the right shape but don't fit, you MAKE it fit. |
Just curious, what lower parts brand kit did you use. |
+1. I use channel loks instead of vice grips, but this is the best way I have found. I found it to be easier than simply driving it in w/ a mallet. |
also curious since I've had problems with the same brand already mentioned in this thread
|
Same here, I found channel locks much easier to use. I also used a spiral roll pin instead, it was much easier to install. It was also what came in the RRA lower parts kit. 
|
+2 I'd like to know what LPK, and as well what brand of lower.... |
|
I had the same problem with a couple DPMS lowers that both had scuff marks on them. (blems) and CMMG LPK. All the roll pins were bastards like Charging_Handle describes. Since I didn`t really have any affection for these particular lowers, I soaked with oil, and pounded the snot out of them with a big hammer. Both bolt catch pins and the trigger guard pins were the same way. They went in eventually, but I was certain the lowers would not survive and I didn`t care one bit. I was ready to smash the lowers flat at that point. Anyway, I can tell you these lowers are WAY tougher you would think, I mean I`m impressed! They are now my range toy beaters and will probably outlive my nice stuff.  I have 3 nice lowers and Stag Arms LPKs I`ve not yet put together. Hope to have a more harmonious outcome with those. |
I've noticed the coiled roll pins were much easier to install than split pins as well. No matter what lower parts I use, I get my roll pins from Armalite (they use coiled roll pins). I just ordered a bunch for when I get a stubborn one. |
|
All 4 of the Magpul roll pins for their enhanced trigger guard were a real bear to get in. They did go in, didn't get stuck and didn't break the tabs off, but they were quite tight. +1 on the spiral roll pins. In a couple of the RRA LPK's they were easy as pie to work with. |
| Somebody out there has a small bolt and nut deal they developed to use in place of the pin, but I cannot remember where I saw it. Their deal looks pretty good and only leaves a small dome on each side that does not look intrusive. I am getting ready to start my next build and would sure like to find this guy, so if anyone knows who I am referring to please post any info. |
AR Sponsor