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Posted: 7/13/2008 4:51:35 AM EDT
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I have a RRA 9mm upper that I am trying to remove the barrel from for free float tube instillation. I have the action block, but it won't fit around the upper due to the buffer. I tried two pieces of wood in a vice, but the torque was too much and the area under to trap door started to bow out. Is there any way to remove the trap door and buffer without removing the barrel first, or does anyone have any suggestions to help with removal? I really don't want to put a 2-piece handguard on this rifle. Thanks! |
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Remove c-clip from the muzzle end of ejection port door rod and pull rod rearward, remove rod (may need to 'flex' it a bit), port door and, case deflector. Be careful so as not to lose c-clip or the spring that's under the deflector. Reverse procedure to re-install. |
This is not a knock against you personally, but that is the reason why I highly recommend using the right tools for the job. As I mentioned in this post below....... www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=386312 |
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I have removed 3 of the RRA FF tubes and they were all insanely ( far tighter than 60ft / lbs ! ) tight First you need a good reciever block like the DPMS. I had to use the DPMS FF tube tool ( works for the RRA FF tube ) www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=5595&title=DPMS%20AR-15%20FREE%20FLOAT%20TUBE%20WRENCH Its the one that looks like a "C" with two pins that go in the gas tube holes at the reciever end of the FF tube I also had to use a strap wrench at the same time. Last tube I removed , I bent the pins of the DPMS tool ....gives you an idea how tight the bugger was ! These were all tubes on NEW RRA uppers. Looks like they loctite them on Without the right tools you will struggle to get a RRA FF tube off |
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Get the proper action block for your upper. It's worth the investment. Then try putting the upper in your freezer for 30-45 minutes. After it's been in that long, take it out and put it on the block and in the vise right away. Steel and aluminum contract at different rates in the cold, so this could loosen up the nut enough for you to start moving it more easily. I've tried it (thanks to QUIB's advise) and it works great. Added-mine was a RRA 9mm upper as well. Yep, those puppies are TIGHT! |
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Thanks osprey21. I will either modify my action block, or remove the trap door first. ETA: I looked at the DPMS block that uses the front and rear pins 4 years ago when I was looking for a block - I much prefer the clamshell block. It feels like it holds the upper more securely. I did not want to purchase another block, so I removed the trap door and used my block. Barrel nut came off easily. I agree, you need the right tools for any job. I used the wood blocks because the barrel nut on a Bushmaster I worked on last week was very easy to remove and thought this one might be as easy. This one was on pretty tight and luckily I stopped before I did any damage to the upper. Worst one yet was one of the CMMG rifles - It took 3 men and a 4ft pipe to add leverage to my DPMS wrench to get that one off. |
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