AR Sponsor
Posted: 1/25/2008 3:18:46 AM EDT
|
I am starting a precision AR build and could use input on trigger selection. Does anyone have experience w/ the JP trigger system. Hesitant because it is a single stage trigger and most have told me the Jewell 2-stage is the only way to go on a precision build. Your thoughts please. |
|
DitchDr, I know the two stage guys are going to blast me but: IMO the two stage “match” triggers are for the service rifle matches where you are required to have a minimum trigger pull. Two stage triggers build the overall pull as for example a 4.5 lb first stage followed by a +1lb second stage giving an overall trigger pull of 5.5lbs perfect for service rifle competition. Most of the bolt guns out there have single stage triggers. I find two stage triggers long. I hate take up (i.e. the 4.5lbs first stage). If you plan on shooting long range standing the two stage might be better. If you plan on shooting from a rest/ bipod or bench NOT in service rifle competition then go single. I love my JP! Crisp 3.5 lbs, no take up, no creep, no over travel. Just read the instructions twice/ watch the video on the CD or online twice before you install and follow the instruction while you install it and you get a very nice trigger. Walt |
I'll second that. Two stage doesn't feel right to me. |
| I want to let you know, that you should just take a look at the tools that they recommend to do this trigger job the correct way. They should tell you this information before you buy it. I didn't buy those hundreds of dollars power tools and did the trigger job. Would I do it over again. No. I would consider another path to a match trigger. I emailed them about the equipment they recommended and suggested that they should inform buyers first, but they demonstrated little interest in my comments. |
|
Right now I'm leaning towards the JP trigger. I've never used a two stage so I'd kinda like to keep the same feel as my other bolt guns. This AR is for bench/prone only. With the jp setup is it neccesary to enlarge the holes in the trigger and hammer when using the JP anti-walk pins? Is installation really that tough and what special tools are needed? |
|
Tool list -Correct size punch for hammer and trigger pins -Small hammer -Flat file, dremel with stone bit or a bench grinder -Red Loc-tite -a bench vice and lower holding fixture (or old beat up mag) makes it easier -.050 allen key (provided) With the complete fire control package with anti-walk pins it comes with new speed hammer and trigger so the holes are the right size. The oversize pins are bigger than stock and take all the tolerance out so the correct size punch and hammer are required. You don’t want the holes any bigger. That would induce wiggle you don’t want. The file, dremel or bench grinder is for the diconnector. Some metal must be removed. GO SLOW! I’ll repeat GO SLOW! It’s not hard. Read the instructions twice http://www.jprifles.com/instructions/Rifle/JPFCP.pdf , watch the video, understand how the parts fit in the lower. Post back with questions. Walt |
|
in the DVD that comes with the instructions your required to put a "slight bevel on the upper edge of the trigger tab" this allows the trigger to fit into the lower. " If you take to much of you have ruined that part" " the disconnector will have to be modified and we recommend a bench mounted belt sander with a fine one inch belt" They also mention that a fine bench grinder is acceptable but be careful about taking off to much. So to make this trigger work you need to do some grinding of material and if you take off to much or the wrong angle you have a non functional trigger. You have to also remove "some" material from the nose of the disconnector and as they say if you take to much off you could ruin the disconnector. They recommend 0.010 to .030. You will need a calipers to obtain these numbers accurately. No where in the instructions prior to buying this system does it tell you that they recommend that you have this equipment and that grinding is required. I think if people knew this information then they wouldn't be surprised as to what is involved to make this trigger work. I am no knocking the trigger only the way in which the company isn't representing the things that you have to do to make the trigger perform in the way they advertise that it will. Maybe since I bought mine they tell you that they recommend a one inch belt sander with a fine belt and that you should have a calipers to measure removal amounts, but they didn't when I bought mine and the person I emailed wasn't impressed with my concerns. |
|
I have two JP trigger sets and love them. I also have a mill, lathe, belt sander, several grinders, micrometers, calipers, etc. in the garage and installed the kit with nothing but a file and the usual fire control assembly stuff (a punch, or a punch and a cut down trigger pin to hold things together). The basic gunsmith drill is 10 licks with a file and try it. When it almost works, go to a couple licks and try. If you are not patient or mechanically inclined, and this is nothing to be ashamed of, modifying the triggers of semi automatic centerfire rifles yourself is probably not a good idea. There is no shame in paying someone to do it, and the payback comes with every shot you take. I'm skeptical of how effective the safety will be on a drop in trigger set. If you want a bolt action trigger feel, the sear engagement has to be reduced to a level that requires a safety that allows no trigger movement, but no trigger preload either. This is a cut to fit proposition on an AR. Single stage is usually used when an AR used like a bolt action rifle. 2 stage is for duty guns, or where the rules require. I tried a Jard 1.5 pound trigger, but had doubling problems on the bench or prone. Respringing it to 3 pounds solved the doubling, but it's not as crisp as the JP. |
WTF you talking about? I used a traditional punch, one allen wrench, a small file, and some red loctite to install my JP trigger. What kind of power tools you talking about? By the way, the JP single stage is a really sweet trigger. I suggest you install their entire FCG including the speed hammer and some kind of oversized pins to remove all traces of play in the system. Feels sweet at 3 pounds with no takeup /creep, or overtravel. |
AR Sponsor