AR Sponsor
Posted: 3/27/2007 4:30:40 PM EDT
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Alright, I decided to take the plunge. What do I need to build my own rifle? And where is the best place to get it? TIA, T |
| +1 what he said. I have only done one kit build, but the tools I used the most were a set of pliers w/ electrical tape on the jaws, and some tape on the parts I did not want to mess up. I was lucky to have some fine grit sand paper handy as a detent was too long by about a milimeter, but other than that I was G2Go. |
+1 AR punch set and stock wrench (either for fixed rifle or carbine stock specify what you need). If you're going to install a standard front sight base a FSB cradle tool is helpful but not required to install the front sight pins. Most AR15.com industry partner dealers have tools like ADCO Firearms, Bravo Company, Del-Ton, etc., see their contact and webpage links at the Industry section. For stock wrenches or other tools, other places that have them are Bushmaster, DPMS, RRA, Brownells, Midway, etc. Take a look at this tacked thread to see what tools are used to assemble an AR. Assemble Your Own LOWER, UPPER, FREE FLOAT, TRIGGER, GAS BLOCK - Step by Step Instructions! thread link |
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Sweet, thanks guys, but what if I want to build an upper from scratch with my special barrel or change a shot-out barrel?? Is the barrel wrench one of those combo looking tools Bushmaster has? How about the "thingy" that holds the upper receiver? I got a torque wrench. Anything else? Is there any trick to the barrel install to make sure it shoots accurate or just screw it and shoot it? Is it usually cheaper than jsut goin to buy a whole rifle? Thanks for the help guys, I'm gettin excited! T |
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Been looking and got this last week, not bad set for the money Roll pin punch set- www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1611693554 $15 SRP electrical tape....tape up areas on the lower so you dont scratch it and for jaws of pliers |
You pretty much got it. You'll need: • receiver block • a decent bench vise mounted to solid bench • the AR combination wrench • a couple of small blocks of wood to rest parts on when you bang on them Personally, I don't like the pliers/tape approach. I have • proper roll pin punches • roll pin starters • an appropriate size gunsmiths hammer (read: small, light) I also bought one of those gas tube wrenchs because I had a gas tube I simply could not get unstuck. If you go with a free-float handguard you'll probably need an extra tool for that. As for cost, it's questionable whether you'll save enough money on the first build to buy your tools. After that you'll probably save $100-$200 or so. Depends on how well you shop around for parts. Apparently, you save a certain percentage just by installing the handgrip onto the lower receiver yourself -- or at least I've read there's like an 11 percent excise tax built into the price of every assembled rifle you buy. Still, I've found that if you buy new parts it's tough to do a whole lot better than good sale prices on assembled lowers and uppers. The barrels have an index pin. They pretty much only go on in one position. |
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I just used a set of punches I already had and a small hammer when I put my lower together. I even used a punch to lock down the castle nut on the stock. It does kind of deform one detent of the nut, but it does the job. If you peen the nut to the receiver plate, you're going to deform it anyway, so why not just use the punch to tighten it too? My 0.02 |
Bladeswitcher, That is an excellent post thanks for the great intel. I understand the money thing. Too bad we could'nt get Bushy uppers for $395 everyday her. I'm going to a buddys house today and he has built lots of them and he is an FFL too. Maybe he can get me a deal hanks T |
| I get by with a few roll pin punches/holders (the 1/16 one with the flat side is a godsend), I think they are listed in the tutorial thread; a receiver vise block; GI combination wrench; receiver extension (spanner) wrench; torque wrench; snap ring pliers; needle nose pliers; flathead screwdriver and a set of allen wrenches. Pretty much can do anything with an AR with those. |
The man has a good point here. According to my handy-dandy "most recent build cost" spread sheet, the AR I built over the winter has me for $615. The purchase list for that cost includes: 1. Lower reciever 2. Lower parts kit 3. Magazines 4. Complete upper off the EE for a song (which came with a complete stock assembly) 5. GOOD sling (Tactical Intervention sling, about $50) All I bought in tools was a set of punches. I will upgrade to better punches soon though. That said, those parts (excepting the lower, LPK, and magazines) were used. Even the sling was "used" though it had never left the packaging that I can tell. This gun would not have saved me much had the upper been new. shooter |
(D) is a freefloat tube wrench specifically for 1 piece type freefloat tubes where the tube can NOT be removed from the nut. (E) is my favorite wrench for standard uppers using 2 piece plastic handguards and a regular barrel nut with delta ring, but it sucks for freefloat tubes. The USGI wrench pretty much just sucks for anything when compared to other tools, but it is functional and would be far better than nothing. |
Sorry, I didn't mean the "D" wrench, but the "E" |
I wrap a piece of leather around the front sight base and clamp in a vise (upside down) when installing and removing muzzle devices. |
 that about sums it up...all thats missing:--mallet --hammer --moly grease --CLP --Leatherman --4" vice |
Hence why I titled the picture "specialized tools" as those other things you mentioned are more like standard items that any good mechanically inclined gun person probably already owns. 
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