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Posted: 3/11/2007 10:01:37 PM EDT
| I did the dreaded 15 minute trigger job on a new build,just to see what I could see.honed the sear surfaces with isso bore cleaner on an almost glass smooth honing stone,just enough to smooth the roughness left from the factory grind.after reassembly,it seemed the hammer might not have enough oomph to reliably slap the firing pin,but the improvement in the trigger was, to me, phenomenal.so off to the range with an assortment of ammo all using different primers.so far every one fired like usual,with my first group using federal factory ammo going into 17/8 inches at 200 yards, five shots cause thats all the factory stuff i had!we won't talk about my reloads grouping...but the trigger job really improved my poor shooting ability.and if for some reason I need to change back, i only scrap 2 bucks worth of springs.seems to be an option for us po' folks on social security! |
po' folks on social security can't afford an $800 black rifle  j/kI did the 15 min trigger job on my old bushy and I love it, it's smooth and the polishing did wonders for my accuracy. For my competition rifle I went out a bought a Chip McCormick single stage, best cash I ever spent. |
What exact part of the hammer is the "tail"? I was wondering because I just tried this 15 min. technique myself. Seems like it hit's quite a bit softer than 25% less power as the instructions state. Has anyone tried this with Wolf polymer coated ammo, is it reliable in setting off the rounds? Also has anyone weighed the trigger pull after doing the 15 min TJ? |
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It's the part on the upper left. On the full auto hammers, there's a hook on the end, but that since semi doesn't require a hook, most companies are just lazy and try to save an extra machining step. You can dremel it off so that the hammer looks like a long rectangle. It makes the hammer lighter, thereby stiking faster, thereby striking harder. eta: Look at the hammer in the bottom left of the bag. You can see how it looks after dremeling. 
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ummm...that was 1-7/8 inches.... |
| the shiny surface on your trigger,that catches on the little shiny surface thats on the hammer.thats called the sear, i believe.i polished mine with a smooth hard hone coated with isso bore paste.just barely smoothed the surface,knocking the tops of the machining marks off a bit.i believe thats all you want to do, as the surface is hardened , and thinly.no coarse rocks like you sharpen your axes with! the little rock i used was easy to keep true to the original angle of the parts. you sure don't want to be rocking and rounding over edges. |
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I did the same as Alice but used 1000 grit automotive sandpaper on a piece of plate glass (so it's nice and flat) then put a drop of 3-in-1 oil on the sandpaper and polished the surface to a mirror shine. The result was a super smooth trigger. Did get a chance to go to the range after doing the 15min. job and was able to set off all rounds (Wolf, Silverbear, and South African) without cutting the "tail" off the hammer. |
dunno, mine has worked great so far without doing the dremel job. I can see tho where any kind of "binding" in the hammer would cause light strikes.if I ever start getting light strikes, i'll just replace the 3 bucks worth of springs before I cut my hammer. but that's just me... |
| I did the 15 minute trigger job on my M4 with the hammer bob. It worked great but the surface on the hammer where the sear connects started wearing funny and prematurely. I don't believe that it had anything to do with the springs, but perhaps I polished the surface a bit too much. I don't really think so as I only took some Flitz to it with a cloth. Regardless I switched out the hammer with another bobbed one and put in some "Yellow Tavern" springs from Brownells. I just think that there might be something about the argument of uneven torque wearing the pins uneven. The "Yellow Taverns" are just a touch more expensive than stock springs. I figure it one of the cheapest things you can change in your AR, but an extremely important one. |
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