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5/3/2006 7:01:51 PM EDT
First off i want to say im brand new here and this will also be my first build.  Building a DPMS flat-top with a SUM 20 inch fluted barrel 5C2 comp and floated handguard with rail gas block.  Last week i went to the shop to put the barrel and handguard on.  All was good.  Tonight I get my gas block and comp in.  I was going to put on the gas block but it didnt come with a roll pin...sigh!  Then i went to put on the com with the crush washer but the thing needs to turn almost 360 degrees so i crushed it a little then decided to take it off and just get a peel washer but when i went to take it off the dang barrel nut broke loose and now im at step one again.  The barrel nut was as tight as we thought it would go without over tightening.  So i guess after i get a roll pin and peel washer I will start ALL OVER again and get this upper complete.   Oh well i guess thats the way it works when building your first one.  Any advice is appreciated.
5/3/2006 7:09:11 PM EDT
[#1]
Generally, the gas tube comes with the roll pin. What I did was use the gas tube to make sure the barrel nut is aligned properly. Install the FF tube and then install the gas tube in the FSB and install the whole FSB and gas tube as one.takes care of most of the headache.
5/3/2006 10:05:10 PM EDT
[#2]
When installing the flash hider, vice the barrel between the FSB and the muzzle if you can.  Don't vice the receiver for FH install.  Or so I've read here, and it worked for me.

Use cloth or paper to protect the barrel finish.

Edit: Install the FH after the FSB and barrel nutty are all squared away...
5/3/2006 11:43:33 PM EDT
[#3]
Brownell's sells those little buggers in packs of five....I have three or four packs.....

www.brownells.com

Gas Tube Pin's Stock Number: 989-015-020
5/4/2006 1:28:46 AM EDT
[#4]
it needs to index almost 360.....dont think the crush washer will go that far will it?
5/4/2006 3:16:06 PM EDT
[#5]
you need a peel washer (also known as a shim in other shapes) to back the index up so it only needs to go forward (tight) a few degrees to crush the crush and hold it all together
5/4/2006 6:37:12 PM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:
First off i want to say im brand new here and this will also be my first build.  Building a DPMS flat-top with a SUM 20 inch fluted barrel 5C2 comp and floated handguard with rail gas block.  Last week i went to the shop to put the barrel and handguard on.  All was good.  Tonight I get my gas block and comp in.  I was going to put on the gas block but it didnt come with a roll pin...sigh!  Then i went to put on the com with the crush washer but the thing needs to turn almost 360 degrees so i crushed it a little then decided to take it off and just get a peel washer but when i went to take it off the dang barrel nut broke loose and now im at step one again.  The barrel nut was as tight as we thought it would go without over tightening.  So i guess after i get a roll pin and peel washer I will start ALL OVER again and get this upper complete.   Oh well i guess thats the way it works when building your first one.  Any advice is appreciated.


The barrel has an indexing pin in it that aligns in a channel in the receiver.  How the hell did your barrel nut come loose?  You weren't by chance, holding the free-float tube with a strap wrench, instead of an action block?
5/4/2006 6:51:46 PM EDT
[#7]
some crush washers are really hard to crush. Laying it down on a flat hard surface like concrete, and then hitting it with a hammer will usually get it to work better. Just make sure you dont pound the heck out of it. Just a few light raps is all i needed to loosen one up a little.
5/4/2006 6:58:36 PM EDT
[#8]
Use a Vortex 6 no need to align.   Screw it on tight by hand.  When you shot the weapon its tightens up.
No issues with indexing.
5/4/2006 7:06:23 PM EDT
[#9]
tag...
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