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Posted: 3/31/2006 5:13:51 PM EDT
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Ok i've read all these stpries of how people have polished all the engagement surfaces of their triggers with a Dremel; but there are so many polishing attachments i don't know what to use. If anybody has a quick step-by-step link with the bit info and a good polish agent, that would be appreciated. Also slap n pics of your polished triggers so I can know what to expect. Thanks |
| I had no polish so I just done it dry. Used one of the bits that looks like ---| with a flexible sanding disc on the end. It done a great job. If you're using the polishing compound, I suppose one of those cloth disc ones. I tried to take a good bit of metal off but didn't work. I suppose I could take a good bit off with another bit to get rid of some of the trigger travel but it works great and safe as is now. I won't push my luck. |
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ironsight-boy, Since it's been a couple of days with no responses, I call BS on the reply you've received. Search around the board for trigger info and you will find your answer. I doubt anybody else will advocate taking "a flexible sanding disc" to your trigger/hammer sear engagement surfaces. These parts are surface hardened and the hardening is only a couple to a few thousandths deep into the metal- remove metal here and you will have an unsafe trigger in short order as the parts will wear quickly. I have read about using Flitz polish on a dremel with a felt buffing wheel to smooth the surfaces. This will not reduce the bearing surface (sear engagement) but I would be conservative using even a mild abrasive with a high speed tool. It would smooth the sear movement but will not decrease the distance the tigger has to travel to release the sear (creep). I would switch out the trigger if I wasn't getting the result I wanted. I have clipped and bent springs but a RRA two stage trigger for a hundred bucks would be a better alternative in my opinion. If the previous response isn't a Troll, he's already "pushed his luck". Bill D see http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=7582&title=AR- 15+REDUCED+POWER+SPRING+KIT Hope this helps. |
| Well I already screwed my trigger up. I got a polishing wheel and went until it shone like a mirror. Creep reduced by %50, pull weight the same, crisper movement etc. Hopefully soon my trigger will fail to function and I will have an excuse to rob myself of two hundred dollars for a Chip Mccormick trigger. |
Looking at the posting date, I would call it an April Fools response... |
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I polished mine with the flitz routine (just used a few dabs of flitz and the polishing cloth). As some others have said. It kinda helps, but it does NOT get rid of the creep. I have a standard CMT LPK and put in some reduced trigger/hammer springs. Now the trigger is not so tight, but it does creep pretty bad. However, it's more of a tactical rig than a bench gun, so I'm not worried. Gundraw |
Goes to show how much metal i removed on the old trigger 
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Nope, unfortunately no April fool's joke. After coming back on this thread I got to doing some googling and it is true, you polish or take off too much and your trigger/hammer contact won't last more than a few hundred rounds. I followed the instructions on the "15 minute trigger job" and also recall reading somewhere of "sanding" the trigger contact and that's what I did. Little did I know you shouldn't sand down more than a few thousandths of an inch due to the case hardened metal. I was thinking it was the same strength inside/out. Well, I'm off to get me a new trigger/hammer also. Little lesson to me and anyone else, take no metal off any gun part that is case hardened. Ironsight-boy, email me your address and I'll order us both new stock triggers and hammers. I do feel bad for misinforming you, and I hope that'll make it right for you. But hopefully someone else will read this and not make the same mistake. |
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I asked a smith about this... smoothing out a trigger. He told me to pick up a ... stone that I can't remember the name of... but he says the stone is translucent. More like translucent marble. Keeping it (the stone) perfectly parallel to the sear or trigger surface. Using ONLY the weight of the stone (not pushing down on it) to make full strokes across the surface, alternating from trigger to sear and checking the resistance intill you can't (or hardly) fell the trigger and sear friction at trigger pull... Hope that made sense... I'm about to fall asleep. David |
I did it with a felt wheel and no polishing compund to my RRA LPK. Took a couple minutes, but the trigger is smoother (still pretty heavy) because of it. I didn't like the grittiness of the trigger when it came out of the bag so I decided to try something out. I went this route because A) The Dremel was right there B) It was cheap C) It was easy D) If you're careful (and know about the case-hardened parts-situation beforehand ), you won't screw anything up and E) after 1200 or so rounds down the pipe, the trigger is as good (or better ) than new.You just gotta do things in moderation and you can't get carried away. WIZZO |
No prob, don't worry about it. I was thinking of ordering a Jard trigger, can anyone here convince me otherwise? Seems like a fairly simple, reliable design and much better than stock. I've reviewed threads related to good triggers but most are a little more than what I want to spend, especially if you can polish the stock one and have a satisfactory trigger for the most part, and if done right, that is . Other words, what's the recommended best bang for buck trigger?Edit: I'm given the choice of a 4, 3, 2, and 1 and 1/2 trigger pull for the Jard. Someone tell me if 1 and 1/2 is too little? I'm wanting to go for that but would that be too unsafe for a gun that's used for plinking/hunting besides target shooting? Edit again: Nevermind, ordered the Jard single stage 3lb adjustable trigger. I hear 1 and 1/2 lb can be unsafe just to use besides target/range shooting. Seems to be the best bang for the buck single stage trigger from the midwayusa.com reviews. And with ordering new springs can be made lighter. |
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This is probably the hardest trigger I have installed. I would recommend about any other trigger. |
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