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Posted: 3/5/2006 3:09:08 PM EDT
Does anyone know how to get the plastic plug out of the back of the recoil buffer? I have already removed the pin holding it in place, but it seems to be either glued in place or driven in the buffer body pretty tight. Since it's tapered I can't get a grip on it with pliers and trying to use a screwdriver to pry it out just seems to start damaging the plastic. Anyone removed these before? Are they glued in place? I was trying to remove the 1 heavy internal weight from my H buffer and add it to my H2 to make an H3. Thanks.
Link Posted: 3/5/2006 3:18:38 PM EDT
ive never messed with carbine buffers but i have taken apart a2 rifle buffers. i drove teh pin out and latched on a pair of vise grips. your going to mark up the rubber and its a bitch to get it back in. i would get a Rock river arms 9mm buffer before i messed up 2 high dollar buffers.
Link Posted: 3/5/2006 5:41:13 PM EDT
Will there be enough room in the buffer to allow the weights to still slide freely (which they must for correct functioning)?
Link Posted: 3/5/2006 8:32:25 PM EDT
Thanks for the replies.

machinehead:
That's probably a good idea, I think I might just follow your advice. I was starting to suspect there was no way to get them apart without damaging them, and I really don't want to do that. Are the 9mm buffers virtually the same as an H3? I know they have aproximately the same weight, but do you know if they also have the sliding weights inside, or are the weights stationary?

M4Madness:
I'm pretty sure I would have to replace one of the weights already in there. If I understand it correctly, there are three weights inside the buffers. In a standard buffer all three weights are the same weight. In an H buffer there are two standard weights and one that is made out of a heavier material. In the H2 there is one standard weight and two of the heavier ones. The H3 has all three weights made of the heavier material. At least that's the way I understand it (someone correct me if I'm wrong), I haven't actually had one apart to see for myself yet.

I think I'll go ahead and take "machinehead's" advice and either buy an RRA 9mm buffer or and H3, unless someone else has any advice about how to get them apart without damaging them.
Link Posted: 3/9/2006 9:10:42 PM EDT
I could not figure it out. I tried today.

I am not sure an H3 has any purpose. Do you have bolt bounce with an H2? Or you want to slow the rate of fire more? Or you have a semi-auto carrier and want to make up for the lighter carrier weight?
Link Posted: 3/10/2006 1:12:08 PM EDT
I think "bolt bounce" is usually when the bolt closes then bounces back slightly, right? That isn't the problem I'm having, but I think my problem might be similar.

I just got a second upper for my AR. My AR still feeds reliably, but the bolt doesn't always lock back when the last round is fired. The magazine springs are okay, and the bolt always locks back properly when using another upper. This would normally lead me to believe it's short stroking, but judging by the recoil, that didn't seem to be the case. Also, the problem is more common with higher pressure ammo such as M855. The bolt occasionally fails to lock back when firing white box Winchester or American Eagle, but pretty consistently fails to lock back with IMI M855. This leads me to believe the bolt is coming all the way to the rear and rebounding off the rear of the buffer tube so quickly that the bolt catch couldn't move up into place in time. That's just a theory, I've never heard reports of that happening before. Anyway, I replaced my H1 with an H2 and the problem seems to have went away, but I would like to try and H3 and see if it will function without short stroking. If so, I'm thinking it might be better to go ahead and use it instead of the H2 (just to give a little extra margin against having the problem again). Is there any other way I can confirm that the bolt is coming to the rear to quickly? Thanks.
Link Posted: 3/10/2006 1:24:14 PM EDT

Originally Posted By sodacan_slayer:
I think "bolt bounce" is usually when the bolt closes then bounces back slightly, right? That isn't the problem I'm having, but I think my problem might be similar.

I just got a second upper for my AR. My AR still feeds reliably, but the bolt doesn't always lock back when the last round is fired. The magazine springs are okay, and the bolt always locks back properly when using another upper. This would normally lead me to believe it's short stroking, but judging by the recoil, that didn't seem to be the case. Also, the problem is more common with higher pressure ammo such as M855. The bolt occasionally fails to lock back when firing white box Winchester or American Eagle, but pretty consistently fails to lock back with IMI M855.



It could be overfunctioning (too much gas), which a heavier buffer will correct by slowing down the bolt carrier. What happens is that the rifle is trying to extract the spent brass while chamber pressure is still too high. This causes the bolt carrier to lose momentum and short stroke.
Link Posted: 3/10/2006 2:54:35 PM EDT
Link Posted: 3/10/2006 3:01:32 PM EDT

Originally Posted By M4Madness:

It could be overfunctioning (too much gas), which a heavier buffer will correct by slowing down the bolt carrier. What happens is that the rifle is trying to extract the spent brass while chamber pressure is still too high. This causes the bolt carrier to lose momentum and short stroke.



The H2 seems to have solved the problem so far. Do you think I should move up to the H3 (for a little extra margin), or should I just leave it alone? If it's still extracting a little early, will it cause premature wear on things like the extractor somewhere down the road? Thanks.
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