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Posted: 6/29/2005 7:44:32 PM EDT
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I've had so much fun with the AR15 I assembled from a stripped lower and a kit that I'm really curious about building an AR15 from a cast or forged 80% blank. Anyone done it? I've found several sites online that sell the blanks and associated equipment needed to complete them. Any suggestions on which blanks are good? Which jigs and drill/tap kits are good? What is the best way to finish a lower? I am thinking that anodizing is the best, and I've found info on how to do that and I think I know where to get most of the chemicals and the tanks, power supply and other equipment/materials necessary, but I am wondering what a good grey dye to use is. I know its a lot more work, and a lot more expensive than just buying another stripped lower, but I like do-it-yourself projects like this... |
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good morning. well, nobody answered so i guess i will try. i have built several. i am about to build one for my youngest boy. well, he is going to do the work and i am going to watch. kid is 15 but a pretty fair machinist already. it ain't hard to do. i have a 'cnc' jig. i think mine locates the rear takedown pin hole a little high and am careful to align it correctly. otherwise the jig is fine. there are several others, but the cnc one seems to be the simplest. i buy lowers from the Tannery Shop. William is a good guy. i have been happy with all i have bought from him. like jigs, there are several others out there. i haven't anodized any of the ones i have built. i use Norrell's moly-resin. it seems to work. good finish and durable as far as i can tell. i use my guns so they tend to get a little scratched up. i would not buy a drill and tap 'kit'. buy them separately from a reputable dealer. lots of them out there too. however i should add that i have a machine shop just outside my front door so i had a lot of that stuff already. use a REAMER to open up the buffer tube hole. don't use a drill bit. you stand a good chance of screwing up if you do. do you have or have access to a drill press [minimum] or a vertical mill? can't do this with a drill motor. [i guess you could, but i wouldn't want to try it. you need the accuracy of a bigger machine.] anything else? peace. billr |
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+1 on the cnc jig www.cncgunshithing.com When I used it with CAST lowers, I had to addjust it so the lower protruded about .070 out the rear. The cast lowers are way out of spec. The first thing you need to do is cut down the top plan (where the upper and lower mate together), take references off of your other AR, I planed it down with a chopsaw by holding it against the side of the metal cutting disc/blade and measuring frequently til it was right, then you need to addjust the rear to the upper with a half round basterd file. This is all for CASTINGS, my understanding is that forgings are made to spec, but I've never done one. +1 for Tannery shop www.tanneryshop.com William is OK. I bought the lowers, reamer, buffer tap and the long 3/32"x6" (IIRC) bit for the bolt hold open from him. You can e-mail William (tannery Shop) or Justin (CNC gunsmithing) with questions, they are both great and very helpfull. |
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Thanks for the info guys... Tannery looks like a good source for the cast or forged blanks. What do you guys think of the Baxter jigs and tap/die/bit sets from ar15plus.com? Seems like their prices on the tools are pretty decent but Tannery is better on the receiver blanks? The ar15plus.com tap/die/drill bit kit says it comes with all the bits, reamers and taps needed. I don't have a mill or drill press, but I would probably buy a 1/2" drill press from the local Vermont Tool store or something. Looking at the CNC gunsmithing jig... Looks pretty decent price. Need to check out all the links off that site... Looks promising... How does the "moly-resin" work? What is the best place to get that? |
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