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6/17/2005 11:24:03 AM EDT
Ok I have everything for my first AR build except a barrel. I'm getting pretty excited now(can't wait to shoot it!) but I'm stuck as I don't know which barrel I want. I'd like to hear what people think about each one of these barrels I mention...good, bad, the weight of the barrel, anything to help me with my decision. I'm going for accuracy here but I don't want my gun to weigh a huge amount.

Heres a few of the barrels I'm thinking of buying:

(#1) DPMS 20" Heavy Barrel, 1x9" Twist, Pre Ban  $179 Free Shipping
   * CRYO Barrel Deep Freeze Available
   * 6 groove, RH twist
   * Button rifled
   * Manganese phosphate
   * Threaded Muzzle
   * Bayonet Lug
   * A.I.S.I. 4140 Chrome-moly steel

(#2) From Bushmaster's site,  20" National Match Heavy Barrel, 1x9" Twist, Chrome lined.  $185 + $13.50 shipping

(#3) WOA CMP Match Barrel
   Â· Stainless Steel 1:7 twist White Oak Precision barrel w/ fitted extension
   Â· Profiled to WOA specifications (fits any SR float tube)
   Â· Flats are machined on the barrel for our windage adjustable front sight base
   Â· Wylde chamber
   Â· 11º Target crown
   Â· Available in both pre-ban and post-ban configurations
   Â· Adjustable front sight base is available - comes with set screws but less sight parts

Barrel Only: $198.00 + probably 10-13 bucks in shipping
Barrel w/ front sight base: $233.00

Whats the front sight base mean? I have a front sight off an old Bushmaster barrel would I be able to use it with the barrel only or would I need the W/front sight base?

I'd really appreciate some feedback hanks,
Kevin
6/17/2005 12:19:41 PM EDT
[#1]
Go with WOA.  The price is about the same and the WOA barrel is in a whole different league.
6/17/2005 2:04:33 PM EDT
[#2]
Yeah your the one that turned me onto the WOA barrel. I had never heard of them so I just wanted to make sure it was a quality barrel.
6/17/2005 2:28:22 PM EDT
[#3]
#3 No question
6/17/2005 3:17:35 PM EDT
[#4]
Ok will someone explain what the front sight base is? As you can read on the barrel specs it says $233 w/front sight base...does that mean it comes with the front sight or does it just mean it comes cut so you can add a front sight? Just the barrel is only 198 so thats why I wondered what was making the barrel cost 35 more bucks.

Thanks
6/17/2005 3:56:06 PM EDT
[#5]
I'm pretty sure they are talking about your standard front sight.  The "base" being the "gas block".  If you are not wanting iron sights or you want your own on there have them send it without the sight if you can help it.  I can attest (after finishing one about 10 minutes ago) that getting the FSB off is a real pain in the ass.  I had to break out the dremel and carefully groove the block and sight in 4 areas to weaken it enough were 2 good bashes with a 3lb hammer torqued it off.  There are people out there that found a good technique for getting this thing off but you'll need a friend there, some wood, and some luck...  especially if you are doing it for the first time.

Good luck...

Oh, if you are going to rail mount the front sight you are either going to need a rail gas block or just a "normal" one.  The FSB holds the gas tube, a rather important component for firing your weapon.  
6/17/2005 4:05:45 PM EDT
[#6]
i would go #3
6/17/2005 4:44:41 PM EDT
[#7]
sensamecca thanks for the explaination. And by the way I will be using the iron sights for a little bit so I will need the front sight.

Now if I have you correctly if I just buy the barrel I can add the extra front sight off a bushmaster when I get the barrel correct? My cousin had some extra parts after upgrading his AR and the front sight was one of them.

The more I've looked into each of the barrels the more I'm really liking the 3rd one. Thanks Brad for pointing me to that company.  
6/17/2005 11:17:10 PM EDT
[#8]
The front sight base is held on the barrel with setscrews instead of taper pins.  It's more secure than it sounds at first.  Flats are machined on the barrel and the set screws bear against the flats.  Where the taper pins normally go through the front sight it is drilled and tapped for setscrews.  If you loosen one side and tighten the other you can get a good mechanical zero.  You might be able to use the Bushmaster sight base you have and simply drill out the taper pin holes and tap for the correct setscrew.  I'd give WOA a call or maybe Steve at ADCO.  They will be able to give you a better idea of whether or not you can use the sight base you already have.
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