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Posted: 4/11/2005 11:26:59 PM EDT
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The other day, I took my buffer apart to see what's inside. It has 3 small metal cylinder-shaped pieces, separated by a thin rubber spacer. I'm not sure if the cylinders are steel or iron, but it's magnetic. I was wondering what I could put in place of this stuff to make it heavier. I'm under the impression that if this is heavier, it will reduce the rate of fire when firing full-auto. Anyone know the answer to these questions and scenerio? |
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In my carbine buffer, the 4 steel slugs weighed in at about .35oz each. (.625"x.625") An equal sized lead slug would weigh about .49oz (1.4x heavier), while tungsten slugs would weigh about .84oz each (about 2.4x heavier than steel). Replacing the steel with exact sized lead slugs would result in a total buffer weight of about 3.8oz (using a carbine buffer case). Pure tungsten would give you a total buffer weight of about 5.8oz in the same carbine buffer. Using powdered, round shot, or sheet lead/tungsten will weigh much less due to the air trapped between the material. Pure tungsten isn't easy to find, ain't exactly cheap, and is difficult to machine if you have turn it down to size. A good and cheap alternative is to find a used/damaged 5/8" tungsten-carbide milling or drill bit and cut the shaft into the proper size. You'd end up with a buffer about 5oz, since tungsten-carbide is lighter than pure tungsten. |
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Thanks for the great response, guys. Here's another question. The weights inside my carbine buffer slide back and forth. If I was to use lead, could I "melt and pour" it right inside the buffer tube? If I pour it in, I can get much more and remove any air pockets. I don't know if the sliding action of the weights poses any benefit or not. |
Yes, the weights moving is integral to the design and operation of the system. The weights slide foreward when the bolt seats, and act like a dead blow hammer. This prevents bolt bounce. May not affect a semi all that much, but something to considder when you alter the system. Might just be easier/cheaper to get a commercial heavy buffer. Tom 
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I took a CAR buffer and filled it with #8 ---- weighed the same as what I started with.... 2.7oz. You want a heavier CAR buffer, buy a "9mm" at 5.5/5.6oz, this is a few points more than the std A1/A2 rifle buffer. Slash is machining CAR style from steel, he is at 8.2oz I think. Ken Elmore at SAWLESALES is selling 6.3 - about 8oz range, they be $$$$ also. I can tell you for sure that 7oz works fine for both 556 and 9mm, as I run a std A2 buffer with a machined brass dowel inside, and this buffer has been test driven in a borrowed M16 lower with both 9mm and 556 uppers. I did put put the 12.8oz stainless steel rifle style buffer from my slowfire MAC in the ar for 9mm, it was a bit sluggish feeling. Did not try 556 at the time. |
Which is why you have to use solid slugs. The spaces between the pellets don't seem like it would make much of a difference, but in reality it does, almost 1 oz in lost weight. |
For a semi-auto, the only thing you will feel is a difference in recoil impulse, lighter weight allow action to cycle faster-sharper, and with the M16, if it runs too fast, things start to get happen (hammer down on a live round stoppage - [bolt bounce] - ), so we add weight to slow things down and keep them in time in time.... |
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If you just want a heavy buffer, then it is cheap and easy to just buy a 9mm "X" buffer and be done with it. All heavy buffers like this will slow the action speeds, but there is not going to be much overall reduction of recoil or muzzle flip with these systems. There are some reliability advantages with the heavy buffer in a carbine too, as mentioned by others above. If you want a heavy buffer that manages recoil, muzzle-flip, and reduces cyclic rate too, then the MGI RRB buffer is the one to get. |
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