Norrells? > Build It Yourself

Posted: 1/12/2005 1:18:39 PM EDT

How many ar's can be coated with an 8 oz bottle of Norrells? I'm not going to be making a career out of refinishing guns but I do have a shotgun, handgun and an ar to re-finish.

Posted: 1/12/2005 1:44:47 PM EDT

[#1]

Their website says 3 oz to refinish a full size rifle with an airbrush.

Posted: 1/12/2005 4:18:57 PM EDT

[#2]

Most appreciated! Maybe I should read more closely when visiting their site.

Posted: 1/14/2005 6:14:06 AM EDT

[#3]

8 oz is not near enough for what you need.

After you do one or two rifles, you will have several buddies bringing you their stuff to refinish. Go on and buy a quart the first time.

Posted: 1/14/2005 9:42:08 AM EDT

[#4]

Ahhh yes, the voice of truth and reason.

Some people honestly think that they are only going to do one weapon....

Posted: 1/14/2005 7:06:44 PM EDT

[#5]

Is the Norrell's finish smooth to the touch, or does it have a slight roughness to it?

Posted: 1/14/2005 7:32:52 PM EDT

[#6]

Quoted:
Is the Norrell's finish smooth to the touch, or does it have a slight roughness to it?

It goes on so thin it does not alter the texture of the original finish.

Posted: 1/14/2005 7:48:04 PM EDT

[#7]

Thanks for the info

Posted: 1/15/2005 10:20:56 AM EDT

[#8]

I just did an SR25, an SPR barrel and other small parts with Norrels. I used about 1/2 of an 8oz bottle.

Posted: 1/15/2005 2:42:30 PM EDT

[#9]

Is Norrell's good to use on all internal parts also? I'm thinking of coating the internals of several of my field guns that get soaked on a regular basis. Am I looking at any problems doing this?

Posted: 1/15/2005 6:36:02 PM EDT

[#10]

Yes, I've done it before.

Posted: 1/16/2005 4:31:54 AM EDT

[#11]

for those of you that have used this stuff
do you have the glass bead the parts to coat ?
or can you just go over clean blueing ?

Posted: 1/16/2005 6:36:12 AM EDT

[#12]

I know Norrell's directions say to lightly blast the parts with 90 grit media at low pressure but (I think) most here don't do that. I just thoroughly degreased everything with engine degreaser ( .88 cents a can at WalMart) and the finish came out better than I really expected it would.

Posted: 1/16/2005 9:07:27 AM EDT

[#13]

Quoted:
for those of you that have used this stuff
do you have the glass bead the parts to coat ?
or can you just go over clean blueing ?

Sand not glass, and while you can go straight over bluing, it will not last or hold up as well. You might want to try it, just to see how it works for you. In a worst case scenario, you will have to blast it either way.

Posted: 1/16/2005 10:02:29 AM EDT

[#14]

why sand and not glass ?
i normally use glass for redoing blueing jobs,
it's not as harsh

Posted: 1/16/2005 10:15:31 AM EDT

[#15]

Quoted:
why sand and not glass ?
i normally use glass for redoing blueing jobs,
it's not as harsh

Toad, you are certainly correct. Bluing is more of a change in the surface of the steel, so a smooth surface is preferred.

Norrells is an applied coating over the surface, which needs to adhere to something. Smoother isn't better in this case.

I hope that makes a little sense, but I can't think of a better way to describe it right now.

Posted: 1/31/2005 6:07:41 PM EDT

[#16]

8 oz is not near enough for what you need.

After you do one or two rifles, you will have several buddies bringing you their stuff to refinish. Go on and buy a quart the first time.

I gots no fwends hare!!!

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