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Posted: 1/6/2005 6:33:22 PM EDT
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OK, I got my Mini-Y off w/o trouble and now I'm ready to permanently attach a Phantom FS. What options do I have to do this other than drill a hole and pin it as that is beyond my doing ? Are there any products like JB Weld, etc that will lock the FS on so it is not easily removed? Or should I simply send the bbl assy off to have it pinned in place? |
Purchase one roll pin at ace. Place AR in vice. Drill hole just smaller than the outside diameter of the roll pin through the already lined up flash hider and about 1/8 of an into the barrel. Drive in pin. Done.
BATFE requires the material be able to withstand a high amount of heat. The lowest grade of solder that they accept is silver solder. You need to get the barrel just red hot with Mapp gas and apply the solder. As the solder melts screw on your fh and line it up perfect real quick as the solder cools. Then refinnish your barrel. or Use Marine Tex it is a boat hull repair 2 part appoxy(you can get it at any marine shop) and you will not need much at all. It is just as tuff as silver solder when applied to threads but not BATFE legal. Funny thing is the only way to know is if you heat up the barrel with a torch as it is required to loosen the Marine tex. I asume your barrel is under 16". |
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OK, OK, drilling a hole and pinning is not beyond my doing. My mistake is in thinking that the pin had to be "covered over", if not so, then hell ya I can do it. ANYONE HAVE PICS OF THEIR ATTACHED FS THEY DID AT HOME?? Just trying to make sure of options before having at it. |
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The pin just has to be blind drilled directly into the barrel not through like the front site/gas block so you can not remove the pin. The common practice is to drill into the bottom rear of the flash hider at a 90 degree angle to the bore. The Cavalry arms breaks came predrilled and with a roll pin. All you had to do was put it on and continue the hole into the barrel a bit and pin it. |
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The drill and pin method needs a weld over the pin to be legal. Some of the other BATF approved methods are: Silver solder, minimum melt temp of 1100 degrees. Penetrating weld half the circumferece of the barrel. 4 equidistant penetrating welds around brake barrel junction. That's all I can remember right now. |
It onl needs to be welded over if their is an exit hole such as the front site block. If it is blindly pinned it aint gonna come out and from what I remember meetds the batfe regs. How long is your barrel, you never said? I assume it is 14.5. |
I'd like a confirmation here on this one. If true this would be perfect, I could drill and pin without having to heat up the barrel. I hope someone with the regs could post a link clarifying this one. Btw mine is a 14.5 also, I'm leaning towards the silver solder. |
With the silver solder method, I assume the barrel would be discolored. |
I'm searching my book of BATFE regs now. EDIT: YES YOU WILL HAVE TO WELD OVE THE PIN! Crow for me, big plate.  Send it to Derek at AZEX, he'll silver solder it and repark it on the cheap since you already have the comp off. Just send the barrel. |
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