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12/1/2004 8:38:42 AM EDT
Scenario:

I finally got my tap and drill but for the buffer tube. Rest of drilling is done, and this 80% is complete minus the buffer tube area.

Mount lower in drill press vice. Chuck drill bit. Center. start drill up, start drilling.

EXTREME LOUD grinding with chattering. looks like the lower may be hosed. The Buffer area is chipped at, rather than drilled.

I ordered this: 1 1/8 USA HS S&D Drill

Now, I am by no means a machinist, or a machine shop guru. What's the problem? Did i possibly order a drill bit for wood, instead of metal? Or am i doing sometihng wrong?

As soon as the problem was noticed, i stopped. I've got a countersunk looking buffertube currently. Might be salvageable.

this pisses me off.

Help anyone?
12/1/2004 8:47:31 AM EDT
[#1]
IIRC, you should be using a reamer and a tap, specially made for this process.

Mike

added: pic from the Tannery Shop, see tap and reamer in middle of pic:
12/1/2004 8:53:05 AM EDT
[#2]
I've got the tap....

Just...got....a ...drill bit....instead.. of......reamer.....shit.


Back to the drawing board. lol...Anyone interested in a Drill bit? lol...
12/1/2004 10:29:13 AM EDT
[#3]
I always bore out the buffer tube hole on my mill with a boring head, and I go very slowly (20 thou per pass).

Also, its hard to get the receiver in a really tight setup... I usually clamp between the top deck and the roof of the trigger guard area.  

When you get the hoel opened up the real fun startes... keeping the bloody tap straight when tapping.
12/1/2004 10:32:49 AM EDT
[#4]
well, i've got a drill press with a little metal helper piece that fit in the tap, so clamp the receiver in place, setup the tap in the drill press. Then just turn the tap with a wrench while pushing down with the drill press.

Now i've got to wait another week or two or three to get that darn reamer. :-(
12/1/2004 10:33:46 AM EDT
[#5]
Using a reamer is the ONLY way to go.  Go to www.concealcarry.org it has some good info on the 80% lower and how to ream and tap the buffer tube.  Make sure its straight!!!
12/1/2004 10:59:58 PM EDT
[#6]
I actually did mine with a bit similar to the drill bit you had. I'd rather use the reamer, but I didn't feel like trying to figure out a way to get the reamer straight.

I don't know if I'm lucky, or what, but I got my hole perfectly straight. The entrance to the hole is slightly chipped since when I first started drilling, I was going too fast. I then slowed it down almost to a crawl. You want to drop that spindle in slow motion. Took me damn near close to an hour to bore completely through. When I made it past the tower, and had to bore into that unsupported part of the hole behind the rear takedown pin, my press started to bind up like a mofo. If I wasn't clamped in tight, My receiver jig would have turned into a 250 RPM spinning wheel of death!

I think if you had the jig clamped in tight enough, and drilled slow enough, you'd have be fine, as long as you made sure you had your drill bit aligned in the hole in the first place. The less centered you are, the more chatter you get. (of course, a crappy drill press is gonna chatter no matter what!)

That is definitely not the ideal procedure, but it worked for me. If I build another 80%, I might just build myself a setup for the reamer. And yeah, the drilling sure was LOUD!!!!!! I've never heard anything so awful sounding come from a drill press before. Sounded like a rusty lawnmower idling.

I think you might have drilled too quickly. Tried to remove too much material, too fast. I was lowering my spindle so slowly it looked as if it wasn't even moving. I applied only the slightest of downward pressure. When I was done, my metal shavings looked more like a fine powder than aluminum shavings- that's just how slow I was going. Seemed to take forever, but my buffer hole looked like it was mirror polished after I finished!

How bad is your hole looking? If it's straight, and not oversized by too much, you can probably salvage it. Go ahead and tap it out, then buy a cheapo buffer tube and stock to stick in there. If it's a little loose, epoxy/JB Weld that sucker in there. Nobody will ever know! I think if you pop your upper on, then charge the gun, and keep the bolt locked back into the buffer tube, you can keep the tube pretty straight while the JB sets. (just don't let any drip on your bolt ;) ) If JB Weld durability concerns you, you can at least keep this thing as a spare lower for a dedicated .22 or something. It'd be a shame to toss it.

If that buffer hole isn't straight enough to let the bolt cycle,  it's probably not worth your time to mess with it anymore.

Just a thought....  In a .22 LR upper/conversion kit, recoil takes place 100% within the upper receiver right? It doesn't even smack the standard buffer back into the buffer tube, so binding in a crooked tube wouldn't even be an issue? If that's the case, people with forked up buffer tubes could just slap a .22 upper on their lowers!

Best of luck to you! The 80% route is an adventure for us folks without access to a mill! (My 80% came out fine, but I gotta admit I was spooked during some of the operations- especially the buffer tube reaming!!)
12/1/2004 11:29:43 PM EDT
[#7]
ehh, shame on me for not reading your post correctly. I just noticed you mentioned that your hole is merely countersunk at the moment, and you got the reamer on the way. You can definitely salvage it with the reamer. Just make sure you have a good way to guide it straight through.

12/2/2004 6:25:46 AM EDT
[#8]
  Don't Forget To Use Cutting Oil!!!p.s.  It's also a good idea to open up the hole with a 1" bit first,  I know the hole is supposed to be 1" pre-drilled,  but clean up the hole and use 1" bit to center.
12/2/2004 6:30:05 AM EDT
[#9]
i've been using a metric shiite load of it.
I don't think my dril press goes slow enough. It's one of them $60 presses with 5 speeds. jsut when i tohught i'd be able to finally finish the 80%. lol...
12/2/2004 7:23:10 AM EDT
[#10]
My drill press goes down to 250rpm. I think your lowest speed would probably be around 250-300rpm, which is just fine. All these cheap-ass Chinese drill presses have about the same minimum and maximum speeds anyway. Just set it as low as it'll go.

When I say go slow, I really meant go slow with that crank on the side of your press that lowers the drill bit and spindle into whatever you are drilling when you pull down on it. If you apply too much pressure and pull down too fast on that crank while you drill, that sucker is gonna chew up your buffer tube hole. If you just lightly and very slowly apply even pressure to that crank, so that big 1 1/8" bit barely glides against the top of your buffer tube hole, while it lightly scrapes out material, it'll eventually start to center itself in the 1" hole and ream out a nice, clean 1 1/8" hole. At least that's how it worked for me. Things started out pretty ragged for me too.

Heh, it's already taken me about a month to finish my 80%. I'm still trying to track down the anodizing materials. Who woulda thunk it'd be such a pain in the ass to get ahold of battery acid. lol
12/2/2004 7:26:43 AM EDT
[#11]
lol...true. That's why i ended up going with Alumahyde.alot less palying around. MAybew if i get bored today, i'll give that 1 1/8 bit a try again. But the next build will definitly be with a reamer.
12/2/2004 8:30:42 AM EDT
[#12]

Quoted:
Heh, it's already taken me about a month to finish my 80%. I'm still trying to track down the anodizing materials. Who woulda thunk it'd be such a pain in the ass to get ahold of battery acid. lol



Hmmm.  Any auto parts store should have battery acid.
12/2/2004 9:57:38 AM EDT
[#13]
Dude it's possible witht the bit u have, i F--ked up on 2 before i go it right.  

First when using the drillpress put it on the lowest setting possable..

Then use alot of that Aluminum cutting oil..

Hand start the hole to create a good center point or just a place for the bit to dig in...

Slowly lower the bit taking your time, i.e. it took me 1/2 hour-40mins to do mine...

The hole came out as smooth as any real reemer could ever do...

When you go to tap the hole just chuck a center punch in the drillpress and place the tap ing the hole,  bring the center punch down onto the top of the tap(It should have a small divot to mark center)apply pressure while visually checking that the tap is stright and start hand turning it.  Once the tap as a good grip in the hole you can turn it with a wrench, but remember to keep pressure on the tap using the drillpress untill the tap is at least 1/2 way through.

Hope this helps and good luck!

here is a site that i used...http://www.hicapmagparts.com/Instructions/buffer-ream.htm
it has everything u need to know
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