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Posted: 11/29/2004 7:01:45 PM EDT
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Has anyone had their lower receiver professionally re-anodized? How did it come out? I had heard that the process for stripping the old anodizing can remove some of the metal from the receiver. Does this create problems with the trigger and hammer pin holes? |
| Since the process does remove some of the metal from the receiver it is recommended that a lower be only reanodized once. As for the trigger and hammer pin holes, there are oversize (.155") pins available if necessary. Using KNS anti-rotational pins ($29.95) will eliminate any future wear on the pin holes. |
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Anodizing stripper is designed to dissolve aluminum oxide while minimizing the effect on bare aluminum. Use this rather than lye and don't expose the part to the solution longer than necessary and you won't have a problem. I have done a couple of 0-80% receivers over several times trying to get the anodizing how I wanted it and I didn't have any problems with dimensional changes. |
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In this picture is a very old A1 upper I did in Norrell's Moly Resin www.molyresin.com. I followed Stickman's instructions. I used Norrell's Flat (Socom) Black on this upper, which perfectly matches the factory finish on this DPMS lower, as well as an Oly lower and Eagle Arms lower (before I moly resined it in OD).  (Note: The discoloration around the windage knob is Breakfree.) |
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Yes. This upper and lower are not a "matched pair". I just put them together for photo purposes to show the color match to current lowers. That upper came off a LEO's AR that he carries in the trunk of his car daily. It now sports a "blemished" flattop from LAR in OD (I did his lower at the same time). So, yes, that upper had the original anodized finish. I disassembled it, thoroughly degreased it by soaking in a bucket of lacquer thinner, at the same time loosening and removing some old spray paint on it. The anodizing was not stripped, nor was there a reason to do so. This finish is quite hard and scratch resistant. |
| I would just get a new stripped lower to replace it with (example, LAR Grizzly for $118), which is cost-competitive with professional reanodizing services (I'm going by Type III, Class 2). Then use the old one to build a range beater. That way you have an excuse to have two rifles. |
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Good quality lowers are (NOT in any order of preference, just ones I have used recently): Eagle Arms, DPMS (I have 3 of these), Essential Arms (high quality cast, very inexpensive) And other receivers that have gotten good reviews from Arfcom members: RRA, Stag, Mega, Double Star (from www.jtdistributing.com), LAR Grizzly. Also, Bushmaster, which are quite pricey, and in my opinion, no better than most of the other lowers commonly available. There are others. Siatene, just so you know, in some things I am picky, some things more practical. In this case I feel you can have the best of both, a nice durable finish, and inexpensive, with the Moly Resin. There is a similar product that also needs to be heated to cure, Gun-Kote from Brownells, which is a similar product you can get in a spray can. Again, this stuff does not look like spray paint. And the end result is that it is almost indestinguishable from the factory black anodizing. It is durable, scratch and chip resistant. Hey, if the original anodizing was so superior, why are you wanting to redo it now? OK, you have to strip the lower anyway before having it anodized. You should strip it for spraying on Moly Resin, too. So far, no difference. You can degrease it easily by soaking in lacquer thinner. Buy a gallon of the cheap stuff. Spray some Gun scrubber into the various holes. There are other degreasing products you can use, too. You can even run it in the dishwasher. Just get it degreased. If you have an airbrush already (and I did, for model railroad work), you can get the Moly Resin for $21, enough to do 6 or 7 lowers. If I were you, I would do the upper and lower at the same time, for a perfect match. If you don't have an airbrush, then get a can of the Gun-kote from Brownells. I think it is $26. But we've all seen nasty looking guns at gunshows that have been sprayed with some crap that the owner is trying to pass it off as near new. Really, Moly Resin does not look painted, and if you degreased it, it will not peel off. The thing is, you can do this at home yourself. There are no legal worries for yourself or the anodizer, with him taking posession of your lower, which is a firearm. Or one of his employees who may be a felon, etc. Or shipping it off, and the shipper conveniently losing it. The lower stays in your possession. |
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