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Posted: 6/22/2004 9:41:42 AM EDT
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I amlooking to build an upper with a free float barrel. My understanding is that I have to get the front sight off (most barrels seemt o come with them attached) How do I get the darn thing off? And back on too I guess-well put the new one on I guess Thanks |
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There are two taper pins holding it on. You first need to remove any muzzle device that may be installed. Then remove the roll pin holding the gas tube in then drive out the two taper pins holding the FSB on. They drive out from left side of the barrel to the right side. You will need to "whack" them pretty hard to remove them, especially on an older barrel. Then use a rubber mallet to knock the FSB off of the barrel. Good luck, you may need it. This is one step that sounds easier than it may end up being. I removed mine off of an LMT barrels without much problem but have read some real horror storys, usually about BM barrels for some reason? |
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airgunner is right about the process, but one improvement on the process could be: If you plan on reinstalling the original FSB, you don't have to remove the gas tube. It can come off installed in the FSB and reinstalled with the FSB. Saves you a step on each side of the process could prevent and a potential ding or two. 
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Good point that dumbass me didn't even think about when I pulled mine off  Thanks |
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If you are building a new upper, don't use pins! buy your barrel, then buy a front sight base that uses the two or three set screws. You may then adjust your front sight base to perfection. Often, when tightening the barrel, you turn the FSB to one side, resulting in excessive windage on the rear sight to compensate. With the set screw FSB you alleviate this problem, and contrary to others comments, they do not come loose if loctite red is used on the screws and loctite wicking green is used on the slip fit. I only use red on the screws and have never had one come loose. You must use a propane bottle to loosen the screws after they set. Take to range dry, adjust windage to perfect zero, tighten screws, loosen one at a time and loctite and retighten. |
Roger that. I mangled the hell out of a Bushy FSB trying to get it off. Ended up cutting it off with a dremel. Bushy parks their barrels after assembling the FSB, which kind of helps glue the pins in place.  On my next attempt (a RRA barrel), I soaked the pins in Kroil for 15-20 minutes. Put a piece of wood on the concreate floor. Placed the barrel on the wood. Then, using the special concave punch Brownell's sells specifically for these taper pins, I wacked the shit out of the pin, and I mean HARD, with a 3lb hammer. Both pins popped out first try. The problems I had with the first Bushy were mainly not using enough barrel support and not hitting it hard enough. I ended up mushrooming the heads of the pins to where the would NEVER come out without drilling. Best of luck. |
Just so you know, that's they way everybody seems to do it except for Colt and FN. My LMT was parked after the FSB was installed and I had no problem with it. RRA does the same thing. Looking at the one BM barrel I had, It appears the BM uses a different type of pin? All I know is the BM I had, the taper pins stood proud of the hole on both sides. My LMT and RRA both sit flush. If all BM's stand proud, that might explain why they may "fuse" more then others when they are parkerized? |
The initial heavy hit and proper support is the key to getting taper pins out. I also support the barrel/FSB with two 1" wide by 6" long by 3/4" thick strips of oak. I have yet to not get a FSB off, usually ding free, but never with no more than one or two dings on the FSB which can be touched up pretty easily. I've recently got a couple of RRA barrels that had straight pins, not taper pins. They sit flush to the FSB, unlike the taper pins that usually protrude out from the FSB. Edited to add: I've done about 50 to date without any major problems using the method above. |
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