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Posted: 5/4/2004 6:05:40 PM EDT
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Thinking about purchasing the RRA NM trigger, Any thoughts? What is the trigger pull reduced to? Any better options? Would search but it is disabled right now. Thanks Mike |
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If you are going to get an RRA match trigger (great budget trigger), try to spend the extra clams and get one that's already tuned by John Holliger of WOA. ADCO sells them. You are going to spend a lot more once you go to the next level of match trigger. My personal fave is the KAC Trigger (very spendy), but many are quite pleased with the Jewel or JP. There are others as well - Jard, Krieger-Millazo, and others. I recommend you stay away from the stock Armalite or Bushy match triggers though experiences vary on those. My own RRA match trigger (not tuned by J.H.) is very sweet, and I measure the pull the other day and while it's supposed to be something like 4.5# mine is about 3.5# and I like it! Very light and smooth. |
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One way to get a better trigger on a budget, I installed the JP AR-15 Reduced Power Spring Kit, I got it from Brownell's, it made a tremendous difference in my trigger, I am very pleased! JP AR-15 Reduced Power Spring Kit |
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Jewel trigger/FCG runs $175. Because all the set points are all adjustable, the trigger offers the best deal out (does not need to be sent off to a smith to be fine tuned). As stated, most of the RRA type triggers need to be smith to be fine tune match trigger. To give you an idea of what I mean, you should have a 2lb creep/movement of 1/8" then feel the second stage (4.5 lbs). Once you feel the second stage, the next movement of the trigger should feel like your breaking a glass rod, which is the hammer releasing. Out of the factory, the RRA types have a bit of over travel/creep on the second stage. This is due to the FCG being set to work in a Varity of different manufactures lowers. To get the most out of this type of trigger, the complete lower needs to be sent to the smith to have him set the secondary release point, polish out the sear surfaces, and adjust the trigger to the DCM minimal limit break tension of 4.5 lbs. Note: On the Jewel trigger, if you fail a DCM trigger pull-weight test, you just shotgun the action open, move the spring leg on click up one on the star, then hand the rifle back to be re-inspected. Fail it with a RRA type trigger, and you will be stripping the FCG out of the rifle to fix the problem (Kiss your scores good-by due to the stress). Also, on the Jewel, as the trigger breaks in/starts to wear, you just reset the points by hand (unlike a RRA type that needs to be sent back to the smith to retune). Just to add, the KAC is a great trigger, but in order to reset the tension of the break point, you have to replace the disconnector spring (hammer and trigger tension spring play a role in the break weight, so keep that in mind if your setting/re-setting it @ 4.6 lbs). Write up on the KAC, quarterbore.com/kac/kac2stage.html Adjusting the Jewel trigger, www.highpowerrifle.com/Jewell.htm |
See if you can put the safety on, with the hammer down on a Jewell. If the answer it "Yes," you have an out of spec FCG. Many are like that. Get out some welding rod and make that tail longer.  Out of the few White Oak Holliger worked RRA triggers I have installed in my own and customers' rifles I have yet to see one not work well. As long as FCG pin holes are drilled in the right spot they will work good. IIRC These were in Bush, RRA and Eagle lowers. I've never had to add weight to the RRA trigger in comp. Don't run it close to the line of 4.5 and life is easier. It leaves you to think about other things like uhhhhh shooting good. |
Just an FYI on the KAC: KAC provides two different disconnector springs (Blue = 4.5# and Red = 3.5#). The spring is not difficult to change. Additionally, the set screw at the rear adjusts both trigger weight and overtravel so spring change to "re-set" is not always required. |
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