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Posted: 5/4/2004 5:52:06 PM EDT
| Is it difficult?Or can any monkey do it properly & without specialized equipment?Thanks,Mick/NSS. |
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Anyone that has decent mechanical skills can do it, here's a link to a guide for the assembly of the lower: www.ar15.com/content/guides/assembly/lower/ To assemble the kit the only tools you need are the roll pin punches from Brownells. www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=5551&title=ROLL+PIN+PUNCHES 3/32 is #3 Roll pin punch item #230-100-003 #3 Roll Pin Punch $3.75 1/8 is #4 Roll pin punch item #230-100-004 #4 Roll Pin Punch $3.83 |
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I just built my first Lower last week. It was a RRA stripped, and I got a RRA lower kit from ADCO. It went together easily and the parts fit well. I followed the insturctions on this site. I printed the picture that was in the instructions, and set the parts from the kit right on the picture, so I could follow along easily and find the right part. I did have the spring and detent for the front pivot pin get away from me. I could hear it bouncing off the walls, but never found it LOL. I found an easy way to get it in is to use a skinny piece of cardboard like the flap of a mac and cheeese box, and hold the pin/spring in the hole with that, and slip the pivot pin over top, and into place. Then after the pivot pin is in, just slide the cardboard out, and presto. |
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Same here. Built my first lower last week using a Rock River Lower w/RR lower parts kit. Using the directions on this site, it took me less than 18 minutes start to finish. Not a scratch anywhere. A razor blade works good for holding down the detent springs as well. Just read the instructions and take your time. |
| As for roll pin punches, you may want to check your local Sears. I just bought a set of Craftsman Roll pin punches this past week for under $20. Before that I used standard punches but the roll punches are better on the pins and will give you less problems especially if you ever want to remove a pin. |
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I don't use roll pin punches. I PRESS the pins, not hammer them in. Bevel the end of the pin first, I use a Dremel Tool (R). Put some grease on the pin and in the hole, just a dab with a toothpick. Use large Vise Grip Pliers. Wrap the jaws with a few wraps of electrical tape so you will not mar anything. Open the jaws so that when fully closing the handles the jaws will just barely start the pin. Work the pin in by squeezing the handles, turn the knob a turn, and squeeze in again, pressing the pin a nudge at at time. When you put in the mag catch, get the pin started, and when it just barely starts to protrude into the slot, place the mag catch in position and squeeze gently, wiggling the mag catch slightly until you feel the pin start into the the hole of the mag catch proper. Then keep tightening a turn on the knob, squeezing until you have it all the way in. For the trigger guard, snap it in place on the mag well in first, then swing up into position. a little dab of grease and with the pin beveled on the end, do the same. This is too easy. No flying parts, no bent pins, no scarred up receiver. |
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I am still waiting to get my lower parts kit in and i was wondering if my pin punches would work? They are : 1/16, 1/8, 5/32, 3/16, I am worried my pin punch will be to short when it comes to my bolt release assembly pin, I paid ten bucks for mine at the local hardware store. Hurry Up UPS! |
| Put my lower together just fine with nothing more than a 3/32 craftsman pin punch which I had to bend the tip of in order to easily install the bolt catch. Also had a pair of needle nose, a little hammer, and a razor blade (worked great on first try). It is super easy to do. Now on to my upper................. |
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