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Posted: 1/20/2004 3:44:27 PM EDT
| I have decided I will build my AR from parts I order from Adco. It will cost a total of about 600 bucks for all RRA parts, which I believe is a pretty good deal. My question is this..I can either buy a complete upper and complete lower, and assemble the two parts, or I can buy a complete upper, and the lower in parts (stripped receiver, parts kit, and buttstock) and assemble this myself, then put the two parts together. I want to go the second route, but is it possible I will mess something up, and wish I had just bought it complete? The prices for both routes are the same. I would like to build my own lower for the educational value. This is my first AR....should I go for an A2 upper, or a flattop? Thanks everyone. |
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Go the second route. You will learn how it goes together and how it functions. If you have any questions you can always ask here, plus there is a set of really good lower assembly instrustions off of this site. To assemble the lower you just need a 1/4 in clevis pin, a punch pin set, (I used a 10 penny nail), a hammer, a screwdriver and some maskingtape. As for the upper, Are you going to put a scope on it, are you going to target shoot with it, is it for self defense? It is really what you want to do with it. And you can always put a detachable carry handle on a flattop. Welcome to the Black rifle addiction, Chris |
| The purpose for the rifle is shooting paper at the range. Is it stupid to buy an AR just for this? You mentioned the home defense role, and that brings up a question...with a .223 round going about 3000 fps, isnt there the danger of overpenetration? This could be dangerous in an apartment setting. I would like to keep my first AR relatively inexpensive. Is it possible to put a scope on an A2 upper? I also am having a hard time deciding on a 16 or 20 inch barrel. I like the versatility of the shorter barrel....does accuracy suffer ver much? |
| How does Hornady TAP ammo solve that problem? Is there such thing as a .223 hollow point? Please excuse my ignorance...I am familiar with handguns, but not at all with rifles, except my .22 rifle, which I have a blast with. I can build this all RRA rifle for about 600 bucks from adco, and its only a little bit cheaper to buy a stripped lower and a kit from J&T...is the quality of the RRA better than the kit? I would like for my AR to be inexpensive, but I wont skimp on parts either. |
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READ THIS!!! It will answer many questions... [url]http://www.ammo-oracle.com/[/url] There is also a brand comparison chart somewhere around here... Definately go with ADCO RRA over one of the kits. I took this route with a little RRA that shoots great. Just get one that is chrome lined. There are reasons the military likes chrome lining... |
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Punching holes in paper is the main reason I built my AR, and it has cost me well over $600. (waaaaaay more) For target shooting, go with a flattop upper with a 20 inch barrel, it will give you good accuracy, especially with the free float tube. In my experience, 16 inch barrels lose accuracy past 300 yds compared to my 20 inch. You could go with an 18 inch SPR barrel too, but that would add $$. The good thing about the AR is that you can always get uppers for pretty cheap. And then there is the AWB. I'm going to wait until September before I get an M4 upper. (Hopefully with all the evil features attached) Get the target upper first, then worry bout a SD upper later. Chris |
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I too bought my first AR while living in an apartment. I chose the 16" bbl. as I read somewhere that the military did some study (while choosing the M4 which as you know is a 16" bbl) and found that the accuracy is the same as the 20" out to 600 mtrs... I also bought a preban so I could get the adjustable stock to make the whole package compact. I bought the upper and built the lower with the help of the U.S. Marine M16 Armors guide. Told me everything I needed to know. If you're slightly technically inclined, you'll be fine. You can't really screw anything up that bad apart from using a hammer on the lower (as an axe splitting wood). I just the other day read on one of these boards that chrome lining a bore is basically for full auto weapons and really have no benefits for semi firing rifles... apart from a little easier cleaning I think. I also think that you lose accuracy with a chrome lined bbl. vs. non-chrome. I could be mistaken though.... By the way, this is a very satisfying hobbie... I now own 5 AR's and have got my two of my brothers hooked on them as well. |
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Quoted: I have decided I will build my AR from parts I order from Adco. It will cost a total of about 600 bucks for all RRA parts, which I believe is a pretty good deal. My question is this..I can either buy a complete upper and complete lower, and assemble the two parts, or I can buy a complete upper, and the lower in parts (stripped receiver, parts kit, and buttstock) and assemble this myself, then put the two parts together. I want to go the second route, but is it possible I will mess something up, and wish I had just bought it complete? The prices for both routes are the same. I would like to build my own lower for the educational value. This is my first AR....should I go for an A2 upper, or a flattop? Thanks everyone. C_M |
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Quoted: The purpose for the rifle is shooting paper at the range. Is it stupid to buy an AR just for this? You mentioned the home defense role, and that brings up a question...with a .223 round going about 3000 fps, isnt there the danger of overpenetration? This could be dangerous in an apartment setting. I would like to keep my first AR relatively inexpensive. Is it possible to put a scope on an A2 upper? I also am having a hard time deciding on a 16 or 20 inch barrel. I like the versatility of the shorter barrel....does accuracy suffer ver much? |
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aaarrghhh....I am having such a tough time deciding between a new P220ST, or building my first AR. Logically, I would get the AR, because I already have a full size .45 in my HK USP, a compact .45 in my Sig 245, and a full size 9mm in my Glock 17, and a .22 rifle in my Savage...so now I need a long distance rifle right? Thats what logic tells me, but the 220ST is so tempting. I am convinced that the Sig is the best auto pistol available to us. The HK is damn close. Sway me one way or the other...either way I will be happy. I know this board is biased, but oh well.... |
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oops, I didnt mean to imply that the Sig was capable at this range. I like the look of the A2 upper more, but I like the versatility of the A3 upper more. For those of you who have a scope on an A2 upper, is it in an uncomfortable spot? It looks like it is kinda high up and in an uncomfortable spot. Are he iron sights good enough out to 100 yards? |
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LOL, no, you didn't imply long range accuracy. I was just about to point out the extra reach of long arms, then remembered the one exception to the rule: Elmer Keith. That old boy lived, ate and breathed handguns and shot plenty of game at long, very dang long, range. In his book, "Hell I Was There" he gives a few of these stories. It wasn't like he was some irresponsible dude shooting for the fun of it when he took 300 to 800, yes 800, yard shots at deer. Just situations where the game was there, he knew how to handle his equipment and his family needed something to eat! I digress.... Iron sights on an A2 will let you hit center mass consistently out to 500 meters. With practice, iron sights will shoot just as well as a scoped rifle at 100 yards. (of course the rifles inherent accuracy is unchanged with either sight system; only the shooter's ability to get the job done is challenged more with irons). I once shot a five-shot, one-inch group with an as-issued Yuga 48, off the bench so it was the rifle not me. The guy next to me looked through my spotting scope and came up with a look on his face like he was about to throw his brand new and scoped 700 pss downrange! If you want a rifle that will always be ready and rarely if ever have a sight malfunction, it's hard to beat the A2 upper. I broke down and had to have that and a flat top too! If I had to choose just one, I'd go with the A2 and practice, practice, practice. You can put a scope on the A2 and it isn't as much of a neck strain as it looks like because of the ARs straight stock design. If you go with the A2, you might want to consider using an internal float tube. This will keep your point of aim right on when you use a sling or shoot off a rest. |
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Hmm...I have never heard of an internal float tube...what does it do? Are there reliability differences between an A2 and an A3 upper? I wouldnt think so, but just checking. I just remembered that there is a range around here that has a 300 yard range, that might be fun to try. How far out are AR's accurate to? If I build one, this is the one I will probably build....the one in the middle. http://www.rockriverarms.com/item-detail.cfm?ID=AR1300&storeid=1&image=rcara2.gif&CFID=75535&CFTOKEN=67440360&jsessionid=1e301016271074816913549 |
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The internal or "handguard float tube" allows you to have a free floating barrel and regular style handguards. It's a must for CMP competition shooting because of their rifle requirements and point of aim can shift as much as a couple of inches when the barrel is stressed without a free float system. Fulton Armory has a picture of their's here [url]http://www.fulton-armory.com/M6Parts3.htm#UpperParts[/url] I don't know of any reliabilty issues between the a2 and flat tops, but I think the A2 is considered to be a little stronger design (because the handle serves as structural support). ARs are very accurate weapons; probably the most accurate military weapon ever issued. A finely crafted AR can rival bolt actions. With heavy bullets, ARs are starting to even win 1000 yard matches when pitted against M1s and M14s with 7.62 Nato rounds. |
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Quoted: oops, I didnt mean to imply that the Sig was capable at this range. I like the look of the A2 upper more, but I like the versatility of the A3 upper more. For those of you who have a scope on an A2 upper, is it in an uncomfortable spot? It looks like it is kinda high up and in an uncomfortable spot. Are he iron sights good enough out to 100 yards? I too like the A2 upper, and personally don't like the A3. I have scopes on all of my A2s, and it is just fine. With a telestock you may want the cheek rest, but with a normal A2 size stock you'll be fine, IMHO. |
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Quoted: oops, I didnt mean to imply that the Sig was capable at this range. I like the look of the A2 upper more, but I like the versatility of the A3 upper more. For those of you who have a scope on an A2 upper, is it in an uncomfortable spot? It looks like it is kinda high up and in an uncomfortable spot. Are he iron sights good enough out to 100 yards? I too like the A2 upper, and personally don't like the A3. I have scopes on all of my A2s, and it is just fine. With a telestock you may want the cheek rest, but with a normal A2 size stock you'll be fine, IMHO. |
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