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Posted: 10/14/2003 6:08:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/15/2003 7:46:07 PM EDT by CARRYAGLOCK]
Ok so what do you do when the strap wrench can't get the free float tube nut off that's been in place for years on a AR10T or SR25?!
I have:
1. Sprayed it, soaked it, even left it over night with liquid wrench in the threads.
2. Tapped all along the nut to try to vibrate some l.w. into the threads.
3. Even tried giant vise grips (using a piece of rubber to protect the surface).

STILL WON'T BUDGE

Oh yes and I was turning counter clockwise (left if looking from butt to muzzle)like my manual states for removal of the free float tube nut. :)

Am I missing something?
Link Posted: 10/15/2003 7:46:43 PM EDT
Sorry meant to say "free float tube nut"
Link Posted: 10/15/2003 7:59:46 PM EDT
Heat gun, then strap wrench.
Link Posted: 10/15/2003 8:10:24 PM EDT
Heat! Sounds scary on such a nice rifle. What kind of heat? Propane torch? Does it need to be heated long? Will it ruin the finish on the nut?
Link Posted: 10/15/2003 8:22:01 PM EDT
Read "Heat Gun". Think of a blow dryer that gets very, very hot. You can rent one, or just buy one at Home depot for $45. They will heat to 450/600-degree range and will not ruin the anodizing finish. The problem that you are having is that the nut was loctite'd, and you need to break the loctite bound. The heat gun will heat the nut up enough to break the bound (450*), but not destroy the finish. You could use a gas torch to break the bound(1500*), but if you allow the nut to get too hot, your going to darken the anodizing.
Link Posted: 10/15/2003 8:49:25 PM EDT
[:D]
Link Posted: 10/21/2003 10:01:51 PM EDT
Well heat did not do it. Liquid Wrench did not do it. But my huge vise grips alone broke it free in 1/4 turn! They're getting re named the JAWS OF LIFE! It's off!
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