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12/4/2002 4:15:56 PM EDT
Is there a decent finish to use on a stripped upper aready in-the-white?
Has anyone tried High Heat Spray Paint?
12/5/2002 3:19:13 AM EDT
[#1]
Brownell's Alumna-Hyde would be a good choice. It is designed for this type of application and if applied correctly and cured properly works quite well.  Brownell also has several other spray on finishes that I have seen that seem to work well in this sort of application.

Also Lauer's has a kit (not cheap) that you can get from them that contains their own brand of finish.  You will need some sort of spray gun or airbrush to apply it.  They produce this finish in a lot of different colors or to your specification.
12/5/2002 10:07:02 AM EDT
[#2]
I just refinished an A1 upper reciever using Dupli-color High temp, ceramic based paint. I followed the basic prep's, sprayed it with 6-7 coats and then baked it at 400o for 2 1/2 hours. This seemed to even out the finish to a matte black. Since then I have been tossing it around in my breifcase to see how durable it is. It also stood up to the brake cleaner on a rag "test". [;)]
12/5/2002 10:16:38 AM EDT
[#3]
royce,

A great finish can be had if you are willing to go through a couple of steps.

#1.  Have the stripped upper parkerized with mag. phosphate or zinc phosphate.
#2.  Use a baked on finish like GunKote.

This will provide you with a very tough, professional looking finish.

Remember something though, if the upper is aluminum, it will still be easy to mar because aluminum is not all that tough.  My experience is that using parkerized carbon steel is the best base.

-Fuji
12/5/2002 10:55:53 AM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
royce,

A great finish can be had if you are willing to go through a couple of steps.

#1.  Have the stripped upper parkerized with mag. phosphate or zinc phosphate.
View Quote


You can't park aluminum. You could park the barrel though.

Gunkote is a good option if you don't want to re-anodize the aluminum upper.
12/5/2002 1:16:40 PM EDT
[#5]
Anybody have any ideas on how to get a good finish on an upper that is mismatched in color with the lower reciever, without having to strip down the upper?
12/6/2002 2:38:32 AM EDT
[#6]
Instead of parkerizing the upper first, I have seen some that have been bathed in a solution of muriatic (sp) acid, which is available about anywhere, and water. This seemed to "etch" them quite nicely which provided a good base for the paint.  I do remember reading that this process darkens the bore unless it is properly plugged.
12/6/2002 9:33:16 AM EDT
[#7]
Contact Robert Tschiemer or John Norell to get info on his molly finish.

He can be reached at [email][email protected][/email]

Here is a bit of info:
Moly Resin is a product trademark of John Norrell Arms, Inc. d/b/a Norrell Manufacturing. These finishes are specifically formulated from a phenolic resin base and molybdenum disulfide (a superior  lubricant) with an exclusive blend of additives only available through Norrell Manufacturing.  Our additives create a phenolic coating that is the hardest, most durable, and the most chemically/heat resistant thermally cured finish available on the market today.  Our special low temperature catalyst will cause the Resin to harden and bond to the surface to form a barrier to acids, oils, paint removers, powder solvents, bore cleaners and other strong industrial solvents.  The low curing temperature prevents possible heat damage to parts during the curing process.  We select our phenolic base stocks from hundreds offered by Dow Corning and 3M.  The combination of the most suitable base stock, our  additives, and molybdenum creates a truly unique coating that represents state-of-the-art technology.  No other thermally cured firearm finish available on the market today has the same characteristics and properties that Moly Resin offers the professional gunsmith or home hobbyist.  Moly Resin  is a coating developed for ordnance usage on equipment and weapons, providing excellent corrosion protection, abrasion resistance and lubricity to meet automatic weapon dry firing requirements after 60 days seawater immersion.  Available ready to apply.  No thinning or dilution is needed.

Molly finish comes in the following colors:
GRAYISH-BLACK - Dark gray-black coloration with an appearance between flat and semi-gloss.
FLAT BLACK - Black in coloration with a non-reflective dull matte appearance.  
SEMI-GLOSS BLACK -  Black in  coloration with a slight gloss that will duplicate the original H&K (Heckler & Koch) type finish.  
FLAT GRAY - Matches the U.S. Military gray parkerizing. May  be mixed with our Green Drab to obtain a  greenish parkerized appearance or our  blacks for a darker gray shade.  
GREEN (European Olive Drab). Olive (flat) drab green  that has been tinted to resemble European O.D. colors of FNC, HK, etc.  STAINLESS STEEL -  Stainless steel powdered metal mixed with clear  phenolic Moly Resin. Gives the appearance of brushed stainless steel when applied over any type of metal.

I think there is a Tan, White and Clear also.
12/6/2002 11:19:23 AM EDT
[#8]
bookertbab,

Are you sure you can zinc phosphate aluminum???

I was almost positive that colt finishes their stuff that way.  Also, I did I search and found companies that will zinc phosphate aluminum.

-Fuji

ps,  Moly-resin is pretty tough stuff as well.
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