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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Inforce WML Reviews and Discussion (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 10/2/2011 6:19:08 AM EDT
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Lets try this again.
For the record I do not work for iINFORCE, just really like this light, and the fact it is locally made to me , makes me like that much more. Gents, I have had the opportunity for the past few weeks to play with a couple of these little gems of a light. INFORCE (Emmissivie Energy Corp.) is a local company to me, built right up the street from my employer. The WML is the first light of its kind, in the fact that its Carbon fiber bodied, extremely lightweight, 125 lumens, ergonomically designed for a thumb break, runs off of (1) CR123, waterproof to 66 feet, and best of all is a true USA made light! I will try and highlight all of the lights features. There are two forms of the light one with IR capability and one without. First of all, the light is extremely lightweight. With battery it weighs in at a mere 3oz.This includes everything, mount, battery, Cree lamp, etc. It mounts to any 1913 rail spec/or close with a spring loaded rock on (very convenient) styled grip. Once snapped on tension is held by a thumb screw. I found on my C4 rail for it to be extremely solid without even touching the thumb screw. The light has two forms of lockout against AD. The first, found on both models, is to simply unscrew the bezel 1/2 turn and it renders the light dead. The second found on the IR light is a simple carbon draw bar the flips over the switch blocking the thumb from pressing the switch. What is nice about the draw bar is it provides a solid hold point for your thumb while shooting a thumb break style. The switch on the light, to me, is truly revolutionary, as it is ergonomic. Your thumb will naturally find its way resting on the switch with no odd angles every time. To me the switch is simple. Touch it once you have bright, touch it twice you have dim, double tap it and you have blinding strobe. This may seem complicated but it is not. When you fire the light you make your choice. If you let any setting stay for more than a couple of seconds, the next push of the switch turns the light off. Also you can disable the strobe function as well. This switch is designed with simple body mechanics in mind, no for flubbing for a small button or switch while wearing gloves. The light is incredibly bright for its size. its a 125 lumen light on (1) CR123. The beam has incredibly bright hot spot, with a more than adequate flooding halo. The light is a more pure white light than I have seen on other LEDs. The light was not designed to engage enemies out to distances, it is a pure cqb light, but I have found to be more than adequate to light up my back yard, and every room in my house, including my rough concrete walled basement. I can't write to much about the IR capability of the light, as I don't own a NVD. I can say that is activated via a simple rocker switch on the side of the body which smoothly interrupts the circuit. No extra bezels or filters needed. The light body itself was designed to be ultra low profile. The bezel barely floats above the rail surface, and roughly only 1/2 inch above the fsb sides. The foundation of the light is barely 1/4" tall and the real estate it takes on the rail is small and very flat. The lights is available in black and sand. I have been incredibly impressed with this light is my testing. It is available to all LEO and .mil depts, and now available to civilians. Contact information can be found on the website. For civvies call Dot at ext 204. http://www.inforce-mil.com/wml-ir.php Pics of the light mounted on my Dissy are pictured below. 
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I was very interested until I read the part about multiple modes/brightness settings, more specifically controlled by the button. Bezel model selectors I can deal with, because you can set and forget, however, cycling through modes is the worst thing to ever have on a weaponlight if you intend to use it properly.
I understand the operation is simple, it has nothing to do with that. It has to do with the fact that if you flash your light for a second, then flash it again - well you might be in the "dim" setting now even though you were just trying to blip your light. Terrible idea on ANY weaponlight. |
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I was very interested until I read the part about multiple modes/brightness settings, more specifically controlled by the button. Bezel model selectors I can deal with, because you can set and forget, however, cycling through modes is the worst thing to ever have on a weaponlight if you intend to use it properly. I understand the operation is simple, it has nothing to do with that. It has to do with the fact that if you flash your light for a second, then flash it again - well you might be in the "dim" setting now even though you were just trying to blip your light. Terrible idea on ANY weaponlight. I have one of these lights for T&E and I think some of your statements need a little clarification. You CAN blip the light just like any other weapon-light. I can flash it on for less than 1/2 second, move and then flash again without going into ant other mode. I can paint and then easliy go into strobe mode if needed. I treat it like any other accessory. If you shoot irons then go to a red dot sight it takes a small amount of practice. If you go from shooting a single action pistol to shooting a double action pistol the trigger pull is different and you just need to practice. In less than two minutes I had the functions down and it was never an issue. |
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I was very interested until I read the part about multiple modes/brightness settings, more specifically controlled by the button. Bezel model selectors I can deal with, because you can set and forget, however, cycling through modes is the worst thing to ever have on a weaponlight if you intend to use it properly. I understand the operation is simple, it has nothing to do with that. It has to do with the fact that if you flash your light for a second, then flash it again - well you might be in the "dim" setting now even though you were just trying to blip your light. Terrible idea on ANY weaponlight. I have one of these lights for T&E and I think some of your statements need a little clarification. You CAN blip the light just like any other weapon-light. I can flash it on for less than 1/2 second, move and then flash again without going into ant other mode. I can paint and then easliy go into strobe mode if needed. I treat it like any other accessory. If you shoot irons then go to a red dot sight it takes a small amount of practice. If you go from shooting a single action pistol to shooting a double action pistol the trigger pull is different and you just need to practice. In less than two minutes I had the functions down and it was never an issue. I understand that, my point was that if I blip the weaponlight (or even just have it on), turn it off for 1/2 a second and realize you need it on (maybe you see something right as you turn it off?), well now you are in "dim" mode. That is a perfectly legit, and very likely, scenario. No amount of training is going to magically change how the flashlight works - this is a weaponlight design error. Sure, you can compromise and figure workarounds to the fact that you need to wait after turning it off for X seconds before you can turn it back on and have full power.. but I would rather just buy a weaponlight that isn't designed that way. Furthermore, I would argue strobe is a gimmick and that a "dim" setting on a weaponlight is almost defeating the purpose of the weaponlight.. but really the mode switching being on the button is what just totally kills it. |
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I was very interested until I read the part about multiple modes/brightness settings, more specifically controlled by the button. Bezel model selectors I can deal with, because you can set and forget, however, cycling through modes is the worst thing to ever have on a weaponlight if you intend to use it properly. I understand the operation is simple, it has nothing to do with that. It has to do with the fact that if you flash your light for a second, then flash it again - well you might be in the "dim" setting now even though you were just trying to blip your light. Terrible idea on ANY weaponlight. I have one of these lights for T&E and I think some of your statements need a little clarification. You CAN blip the light just like any other weapon-light. I can flash it on for less than 1/2 second, move and then flash again without going into ant other mode. I can paint and then easliy go into strobe mode if needed. I treat it like any other accessory. If you shoot irons then go to a red dot sight it takes a small amount of practice. If you go from shooting a single action pistol to shooting a double action pistol the trigger pull is different and you just need to practice. In less than two minutes I had the functions down and it was never an issue. I understand that, my point was that if I blip the weaponlight (or even just have it on), turn it off for 1/2 a second and realize you need it on (maybe you see something right as you turn it off?), well now you are in "dim" mode. That is a perfectly legit, and very likely, scenario. No amount of training is going to magically change how the flashlight works - this is a weaponlight design error. I went back and tested the scenario and I found that once it is off, you can blip again. So you can blip it, and then repeat without going into dim mode. I think the theory behind it is to intentionally press twice within two seconds, (which actually is a really long time) to get into low. YMMV but It works well for me. |
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I was very interested until I read the part about multiple modes/brightness settings, more specifically controlled by the button. Bezel model selectors I can deal with, because you can set and forget, however, cycling through modes is the worst thing to ever have on a weaponlight if you intend to use it properly. I understand the operation is simple, it has nothing to do with that. It has to do with the fact that if you flash your light for a second, then flash it again - well you might be in the "dim" setting now even though you were just trying to blip your light. Terrible idea on ANY weaponlight. I have one of these lights for T&E and I think some of your statements need a little clarification. You CAN blip the light just like any other weapon-light. I can flash it on for less than 1/2 second, move and then flash again without going into ant other mode. I can paint and then easliy go into strobe mode if needed. I treat it like any other accessory. If you shoot irons then go to a red dot sight it takes a small amount of practice. If you go from shooting a single action pistol to shooting a double action pistol the trigger pull is different and you just need to practice. In less than two minutes I had the functions down and it was never an issue. Furthermore, I would argue strobe is a gimmick and that a "dim" setting on a weaponlight is almost defeating the purpose of the weaponlight.. but really the mode switching being on the button is what just totally kills it. Just noticed the last part of this comment. If strobe and low power were gimmicks why did Crane make it mandatory for the VBL III? Did you even consider low power is necessary for breaching or extended battery life? Read the Crane specs for the VBL III and report back Sir. I would assume Crane to be smart and well informed from guys that are "in the know" to make their requirements. |
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Furthermore, I would argue strobe is a gimmick and that a "dim" setting on a weaponlight is almost defeating the purpose of the weaponlight.. but really the mode switching being on the button is what just totally kills it. I've done a good bit of force on force training both using a strobe and going against a strobe. A gimmick, it is not. |
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Not a bad looking light. I also wish they did an adjustable bezel to set the light functions. Although I do like the flip lever for the IR/visible light feature.
What does the IR version cost? If it is quite a bit cheaper than the Surefire 952V, than it will do well. But you can get a 952V for $250ish NIW. |
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Well a range follow up! Ran a couple of hundred round through my rifle yesterday with the wml on in it's various light settings. I am happy to say not a single failure. The light stayed on though slow fire, rapid fire, firing while moving etc. For the time being it's about as good as I am going to get. Everything remained tight, and again, the lights switch is just awesome to use as a reference point for your thumb while shooting!
Got a small rail section in to mount a wml on my wifes moe Middy, will be testing it out this coming weekend. |
| Just started outfitting lights for our patrol officers and decided to go with the Inforce. The WML low profile allows us to keep the light mounted to the AR while secured in our vehicle rack. So far been extremely impressed with the light output and lightweight. We do allot of walking with our guns and weight from addons is a concern. So far they have been great. Highly recommend. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Furthermore, I would argue strobe is a gimmick and that a "dim" setting on a weaponlight is almost defeating the purpose of the weaponlight.. but really the mode switching being on the button is what just totally kills it. I've done a good bit of force on force training both using a strobe and going against a strobe. A gimmick, it is not. |
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Had an Unexpected power outage this past Sunday evening and was without power for close to 3 hours. Decided it was a good oportunity to run some gas through my generator.
Since it was dark I decided to grab my wml off my rifle and give it some normal pocket light usage. I found it to be great in this role. First even on Dim the light has more than enough power to light up every area of my house and back yard while I set up. What is also nice is you can set it down on a fat surface, such as in a basement or shed shelving unit and will illuminate the entire space without worry of rolling to the floor. And as every man knows when working in the dark, sometimes you need both hands, having the flat portion of the light behind the switch to bite betweek your teeth was all to convienant! 
Needless to say the little light has found even more usage in which it excelled at ! 
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Alright gents! Just got my Inforce WML today and my first thought after I picked it up, "Cheap bastids didnt even send a battery!" Then i opened it up to find a battery installed.... Holy crap this thing is light!!!!
Only thing that will take some getting used to is the switch is press on/press off... and if you do it super quick to give an instantaneous burst of light... it goes into strobe mode. If you press it a little slower, itll go to low mode. Once you turn it on, you have to wait half a second or so to press it again to turn it off. Definitely will take some getting used to but I rarely use my light that quickly anyhow... more like 2-3 second burst so it should work great for me. Would be cool if they had a pressure switch for this like surefire does. EITHER way... I felt compelled to take everyone on a tour through some of my house with both the Inforce WML and the Surefire M951 with 80 lumen LED replacement lamp installed. 
M951 
Inforce 
M951 
Inforce 
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All in all.... I like this light alot and it'll serve my needs great as an average joe. Overall... the surefire is tough enough to bash a skull in and should get a longer battery life as theres two batteries and less lumens.... but thats why I carry spares. The Inforce definitely feels durable but obviously its not going to be as heavy duty as the surefire. But damn... the weight iis the biggest thing... WML @ 3 ounces and the M951 @ its advertised 8.6 ounces (which I call complete BS on... Im gonna toss it on a scale as im sure its more than that)... thats a whole lot less weight off the end of your rifle!
I hope someone may find this useful if their in the market. I certainly will be buying a few more of these! |
| Very useful review/comparison, thanks. I've got one of their flashlights, they make some solid stuff for a reasonable price. Tactical LEDs seems to have the best price on them, but I had never dealt with them before. Sounds like you had no problem, so I think I may order one next week. |
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Emissive Energy has provided us with four Inforce WML's for you to pass around and evaluate.
If you are interested in playing with one of these first hand, here is our thread in our forum - Inforce WML Pass Around |
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I have to agree with most of the posts on this one, however I will try to get my hands on one to try out.
It would appear they had the right concept straight up until the switch design. A small, lightweight, powerful and smooth WML is a great idea, but the lack of the K.I.S.S. principle makes me worry for the operational end of things. Now, a modular style switch design would make sense for those that want to pick and choose strobe, IR, etc. |
| I guess I am the only on out there that took ten minutes to figure out the switch an have had no issues with it since. The instructions are incredibly clear on how the switch works and how to enable/ disable the various functions of the light to make it as simple or complex as one wants it to be. |
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I guess I am the only on out there that took ten minutes to figure out the switch an have had no issues with it since. The instructions are incredibly clear on how the switch works and how to enable/ disable the various functions of the light to make it as simple or complex as one wants it to be. The instructions seem to have no provisions for something as simple as on/off. Tell me what I'm missing. I can get on/off/strobe and on/off/low, neither of which allows me to safely clear a house. |
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basically press and hold the button, when done let go. The only time you should be engaging the other modes is if needed. This review may also help http://www.defensereview.com/inforce-wml-weapon-mounted-light-tactical-white-lightinfrared-ir-light-a-shooters-report-detailed-range-report-with-photos-and-video/ |
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I got mine in today and without reading the instructions I was able to figure it out in about 10 seconds....high..low...strobe(double tap)....not sure why people are saying the operating system is bad...very easy to use....I will be buying a couple of more. Try clearing a dark house with one where you think a real bad guy exists. Got one for Christmas and the light modes really are the worst part of the light. Otherwise it is very impressive. It's almost silly that a .mil spec was the source of this terrible idea. Great light, terrible execution on the programming. |
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Have you tried pressing and holding the button and letting go when you done with your burst? It has the same momentary capability as every other light out there. That's all fun and games, but if your version of "momentary" is less than a second or 2, you're going to be screwed. You an't "flash" this light for a quick peek with it's current mode of switching. I have tried it and evaluated it over a pretty extensive period of time. Didn't work for me, strictly b/c of the switch. Otherwise, it's a perfect light for me 
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| Sorry I wasn't aware that a flash, effectively scan a room and possibly identify a threat lasts less than one second, you must be the friggin six million dollar man! If I can hold and flash for a second at a time the light works for me, but evidently I am a mere human. |
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Sorry I wasn't aware that a flash, effectively scan a room and possibly identify a threat lasts less than one second, you must be the friggin six million dollar man! If I can hold and flash for a second at a time the light works for me, but evidently I am a mere human. You are being silly. We get you love the light, that's great. LEO's clear a lot buildings and being hampered by a light switch is bad stuff. Having a light that requires fine motor skill to function during times where only gross motor skills are available can stack the odds in the bad guys favor. It's a good light, that's for sure but the switch programming could be better suited for some folks. It appears to be a programmable function so I suspect it's possible for them to produce a light that is high output only with a real momentary switch. I'm keeping the light, and keeping an eye out for switch upgrades. 
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Sorry I wasn't aware that a flash, effectively scan a room and possibly identify a threat lasts less than one second, you must be the friggin six million dollar man! If I can hold and flash for a second at a time the light works for me, but evidently I am a mere human. WAAAAAY less than a second in many cases. |
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I got mine in today and without reading the instructions I was able to figure it out in about 10 seconds....high..low...strobe(double tap)....not sure why people are saying the operating system is bad...very easy to use....I will be buying a couple of more. Try clearing a dark house with one where you think a real bad guy exists. Got one for Christmas and the light modes really are the worst part of the light. Otherwise it is very impressive. It's almost silly that a .mil spec was the source of this terrible idea. Great light, terrible execution on the programming. Yeah...I'm not a Tier 1 Tactical operator...maybe you are.....for a bump in the night and for $120...it does a very good job....and unless you actually cleared a house with one, how do you know its so bad? |
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I got mine in today and without reading the instructions I was able to figure it out in about 10 seconds....high..low...strobe(double tap)....not sure why people are saying the operating system is bad...very easy to use....I will be buying a couple of more. Try clearing a dark house with one where you think a real bad guy exists. Got one for Christmas and the light modes really are the worst part of the light. Otherwise it is very impressive. It's almost silly that a .mil spec was the source of this terrible idea. Great light, terrible execution on the programming. Yeah...I'm not a Tier 1 Tactical operator...maybe you are.....for a bump in the night and for $120...it does a very good job....and unless you actually cleared a house with one, how do you know its so bad? Is that a trick question? You guys keep throwing this operator shit around like there's not literally thousands of houses being cleared every day, usually by guys that aren't sporting a $500 Randall on their hip, or a contractor grade beard. Using a light to clear a house isn't calculus- it's pre-algebra. It's the shit you learn right after sight alignment and learning to clear malfunctions. And in case it wasn't a trick question, clearing a house with bad people in it, is remarkably similar to clearing your residence when you open up a new light and stick it on your carbine. |
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Sorry I wasn't aware that a flash, effectively scan a room and possibly identify a threat lasts less than one second, you must be the friggin six million dollar man! If I can hold and flash for a second at a time the light works for me, but evidently I am a mere human. Condescension is pretty weak in the tech forums. *edit* - NOBODY said it didn't work for YOU. I only said it didn't work for ME. (that's "mere mortal" me, BTW...) |
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Again sorry didn't realize terms like "fun and games" wasn't a condescending way to start off a reply. I generally give back attitude in which I receive. I suggested an effective way to use the light is which some did not figure out, you told me it was fun and games. You also told me that the light is going to get me screwed...
Deal with sharp silly comebacks when you start things off that way...... |
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Again sorry didn't realize terms like "fun and games" wasn't a condescending way to start off a reply. I generally give back attitude in which I receive. I suggested an effective way to use the light is which some did not figure out, you told me it was fun and games. You also told me that the light is going to get me screwed... Deal with sharp silly comebacks when you start things off that way......  I have no axe to grind with you. If you thought I was implying in my original post that "you" meant YOU, I apologize for the confusion. I was using "you" in the common vernacular for "one", as in "one would think...." meaning the same thing as "you would think..." get it?
Staying on the original topic, I'll reiterate that TO ME (that should be redundant, but hey, folks need clarification sometimes) this light has ONE weakness, and that it the switch and it's multi-mode layout. It doesn't work FOR ME. YMMV, etc etc etc. And FWIW, I CAN effectively scan a room with a MOMENTARY FLASH of a weaponlight. I don't want to keep my light on because I want to avoid being an easy target. |
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I got mine in today and without reading the instructions I was able to figure it out in about 10 seconds....high..low...strobe(double tap)....not sure why people are saying the operating system is bad...very easy to use....I will be buying a couple of more. Try clearing a dark house with one where you think a real bad guy exists. Got one for Christmas and the light modes really are the worst part of the light. Otherwise it is very impressive. It's almost silly that a .mil spec was the source of this terrible idea. Great light, terrible execution on the programming. Yeah...I'm not a Tier 1 Tactical operator...maybe you are.....for a bump in the night and for $120...it does a very good job....and unless you actually cleared a house with one, how do you know its so bad? Is that a trick question? You guys keep throwing this operator shit around like there's not literally thousands of houses being cleared every day, usually by guys that aren't sporting a $500 Randall on their hip, or a contractor grade beard. Using a light to clear a house isn't calculus- it's pre-algebra. It's the shit you learn right after sight alignment and learning to clear malfunctions. And in case it wasn't a trick question, clearing a house with bad people in it, is remarkably similar to clearing your residence when you open up a new light and stick it on your carbine. Not a trick question...you said "Try clearing a dark house with one where you think a real bad guy exists. " I asked if you had done that? |
Finally here is my review. It took awhile because I've been waiting for my photobucket account to come back but its not 
I received and tested the White light only version. 
Initial Impression First off when I got the package I thought it was empty. For a second I honestly thought someone had taken it out of the package. But it was in there. So I looked it up and its only 3oz with a battery! Now that is very impressive. It weighs the same thing as some flashlight mounts! That is definitely a big plus for those who want their rifles light as possible. Functionality The Inforce WML has three modes. High,Low, Strobe. The way you switch between these is very simple. The first press turn the high mode on. To turn on strobe press again immediately and it will begin to strobe. If you want low wait a moment and press again the light will go to low mode. (the instructions state 2 seconds but when I wait 2 seconds it doesnt work so its more like 1 second). Now not everyone is a fan of strobe mode. I see the use of it but walking around my house with strobe it distracted me so I would rather have high on. Now the ingenious thing about this light is that you can disable strobe in a few seconds. All you do is loosen the front bezel 1 rotation, hold the button down and screw it tight. Strobe mode is now disabled. Now I REALLY like this because my Elzetta light you need to pick between a high/low or high/strobe tailcap. You cannot have all three modes. Now I do have 1 thing I would prefer to be different. I like the ability to have 10 hours on low mode, but I do not like how I have to turn on the high mode first. The reason I say this is because if your eyes are used to teh dark and you want low mode, you flash the high mode which might effect your vision. It would be nice if the standard white only version had the same switch the IR/white version has, but the switch can switch it between high and low. Now this really isn't that big of a deal though. Because if you wait longer then 2 seconds to turn the light off it goes off right away and you dont have to switch to low before it turns off. Mounting Now the Inforce WML has a unique mounting system. From what I can see it has a spring built in which creates sort of a clamp that is under tension the entire time. Once you line up the bump with your rails you can either snap it over the rail or squeeze on either side which will cause it to open up. ***I am not sure if the whole "snap it over the rail" is recommended or not. Now to stop it from coming off there is a small screw that you turn which extends a small pin against the body of the WML so the mounting "clamp" system cannot open and come off of the rail. I love this toolless design but the piece that you turn should be larger, or at least have a slot for a flat head screw driving if you cannot get a good grip to loosen it. As you can see in the picture it is pretty small. 
I also have another complaint. I really wish that the surface area on the rail it requires was less. I wish it would hang off of the rail more. In the picture below is the farther forward I could place it. The reason I say this is because the botton was nearly halfway back on my carbine rail. It would be more comfortable if I could have mounted it 1" further. If you look at the way it mounts to teh rail you can see what I mean. Nearly the full length of the light must be over rail. 
Now reading all the other reviews everyone else has a ton of pictures showing the light and the beam close up, so I will provide a comparison. This is off my back porch looking at my shed. My shed is about 35 yards away. The tree to the left is around 10 yards, the bird house to the right is the same distance. First off is a cheap chinese light with a 480 Lumen drop in 
This picture is a Surefire G2 with a TNVC 265 Lumen Drop in 
This is an Elzetta M60 on high setting 235 Lumens 
This is the Elzetta M-60 on 15 Lumen low mode 
Here is a TLR-1 which is 160 Lumens 
Here is the Inforce WML on high (sorry low mode pictures didn't come out but it was 3 times as bright as the Elzetta on low) 
Now I would say the WML and TLR-1 are the closest in these comparisons spec/size/price wise and the TLR-1 wins when it comes to light. The only reason it would be preferable is the low mode. because the TLR-1 gets 30 more minutes on high. Now size/weigh/ergonomics the WML wins hands down. One thing that I noticed is the WML had a much more "natural" and warmer color light, which is why it doesnt appear as bright in outside picture. Take a look at this video comparison, it does much better indoors.(make sure to do 1080p full screen) 
Here is a quick video showing mounting...
Here is a quick video showing how to disable the strobe feature....
Overall I would say this is an awesome light. It is light as hell, puts out a ton of light, and will last up to 10 hours on low with a single CR123A battery, and the low mode is still very usable. I would say $150 is easily a fair price. This light is made for mounting on a rifle and it is clearly evident as it excels in every aspect. Now I would just like to see a 2 cell version that extends out further more to take up less room on the rail. |
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I got mine in today and without reading the instructions I was able to figure it out in about 10 seconds....high..low...strobe(double tap)....not sure why people are saying the operating system is bad...very easy to use....I will be buying a couple of more. Try clearing a dark house with one where you think a real bad guy exists. Got one for Christmas and the light modes really are the worst part of the light. Otherwise it is very impressive. It's almost silly that a .mil spec was the source of this terrible idea. Great light, terrible execution on the programming. Yeah...I'm not a Tier 1 Tactical operator...maybe you are.....for a bump in the night and for $120...it does a very good job....and unless you actually cleared a house with one, how do you know its so bad? Is that a trick question? You guys keep throwing this operator shit around like there's not literally thousands of houses being cleared every day, usually by guys that aren't sporting a $500 Randall on their hip, or a contractor grade beard. Using a light to clear a house isn't calculus- it's pre-algebra. It's the shit you learn right after sight alignment and learning to clear malfunctions. And in case it wasn't a trick question, clearing a house with bad people in it, is remarkably similar to clearing your residence when you open up a new light and stick it on your carbine. Not a trick question...you said "Try clearing a dark house with one where you think a real bad guy exists. " I asked if you had done that? He didn't "say" that, I did.  I'll ask you to understand that I've been clearing houses, etc for roughly 19 years, many of which were in the dark, and all of which I used a light. (not a tier anything, basic police officers clear buildings nightly).
The switch (for me), relegates it to being used in an almost always on method. Lighting an area briefly then moving and re-illuminating the light might potentially cause the light to enter the low power mode or strobe mode, not something you want to be messing with during clearing operations. |
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Quoted:
The switch (for me), relegates it to being used in an almost always on method. Lighting an area briefly then moving and re-illuminating the light might potentially cause the light to enter the low power mode or strobe mode, not something you want to be messing with during clearing operations. Quoted and enhanced for emphasis |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Inforce WML Reviews and Discussion (Page 1 of 2)
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