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Posted: 2/10/2010 10:30:07 AM EDT
| Is everybody using just Surefire flashlights? I was looking at the Wilson Combat weapon LED light, seems to be a good light, what do you guys think? Don't get me wrong I like surefire and I have one and I love it, I was just wondering if their are any other good quality lights out their. |
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i run a Surefire 6P with a Malkoff M60 drop-in, 240+ lumens with 1.5 hrs of runtime, it's one hell of a light. Do they make a 1913 mount for that? Pardon my ignorance, but I'm not sure what a "1913 mount" is. Several manufactures make mounts for lights of these sort that are compatible with the standard AR rails. The Malkoff drop-in LED devices simply replace the Surefire factory lamps, they do not change the dimensions of the light. I use a Daniel Defense offset mount: 
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: i run a Surefire 6P with a Malkoff M60 drop-in, 240+ lumens with 1.5 hrs of runtime, it's one hell of a light. Do they make a 1913 mount for that? Pardon my ignorance, but I'm not sure what a "1913 mount" is. Several manufactures make mounts for lights of these sort that are compatible with the standard AR rails. The Malkoff drop-in LED devices simply replace the Surefire factory lamps, they do not change the dimensions of the light. I use a Daniel Defense offset mount: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e106/Captains1911/paper%20punchers/DSC00766.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e106/Captains1911/paper%20punchers/TroyRail_1.jpg lol, I just meant 1913 picatinny rails. Those are "standard AR" rails  |
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i run a Surefire 6P with a Malkoff M60 drop-in, 240+ lumens with 1.5 hrs of runtime, it's one hell of a light. Do they make a 1913 mount for that? Pardon my ignorance, but I'm not sure what a "1913 mount" is. Several manufactures make mounts for lights of these sort that are compatible with the standard AR rails. The Malkoff drop-in LED devices simply replace the Surefire factory lamps, they do not change the dimensions of the light. I use a Daniel Defense offset mount: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e106/Captains1911/paper%20punchers/DSC00766.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e106/Captains1911/paper%20punchers/TroyRail_1.jpg lol, I just meant 1913 picatinny rails. Those are "standard AR" rails
That's what I thought, but wasn't sure, and didn't want to provide bad info. |
| I have recently taken to using pistol taclights on long guns. They are more than bright enough, take up very little rail space, and come with their own mount. I am currently running an SSL-1 at the 12 o'clock position ahead of the front sight. I dont see any reason to ever go back to a normal bodied light. |
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i run a Surefire 6P with a Malkoff M60 drop-in, 240+ lumens with 1.5 hrs of runtime, it's one hell of a light. I'm running the same thing except its in a G2 body (cheaper plastic version of the 6P) in an VLTOR mount. Malkoff is a genius. As long as you're using an aluminum bezel with your G2 body, this is just as good a setup, but the G2 plastic bezel is not recommended with a Malkoff M60 due to risk of it melting. As for the VLTOR mount, I tried one with little success, it simply would not secure the light, the recoil would cause the light to shift forward, and I was using the proper model for my light. IMO the design of the VLTOR mount is flawed as it uses the same screw to secure both the light to the mount and the mount to the rail. if any of these three (light, rail, and mount) are even the slightest bit out of spec the mount won't work properly. YMMV. I agree, Gene Malkoff and his products are unbelievable. |
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Quoted: As long as you're using an aluminum bezel with your G2 body, this is just as good a setup, but the G2 plastic bezel is not recommended. Had no idea that it wasn't recommended and had to check my gun. Thankfully I had the G2 from when they first came out and I purchased the aluminum shock bezel for use as a weapons light years ago. It's still there, no wonder I haven't had any problems. |
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Hey guys I got's a question for you... I just got off the phone with surefire, and they told me that the ONLY lights that could be mounted on a rifle are the M2, M3, M4 and all the actual weapons lights. They told me that the G6 or any of the hand-held flashlights would not be a good choice, due to being unable to sustain the recoil. But, I see a bunch of the 'hand-held" lights mounted on rifles (non-weapon lights according to surefire). So who's right (I'm pretty damn confused)? |
I bought a Coleman 75 lumen flashlight from Wal-Mart after seeing a review on it on YouTube. I liked it so much, that shortly after buying it, I said that it would be the light that I put on my A4 clone (this was before I even started buying parts for the gun itself). It uses three AAA batteries, has an aluminum housing, on/off switch on the bottom, and has a lifetime LED bulb. It is the single brightest and most well-constructed flashlight I've ever owned. I bought some scope rings of eBay and modded them to fit the flashlight. Some may say it's cheap, but I love it! I love it some much, that I bought another after I mounted this one. Oh yeah, and it was only $18 
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they say that... but i've used a G2 for a lOT of rounds... without any ill effect... just because the light isn't rated for shooting, doesnt mean that it will explode after the first shot?.... Now the G2 is carried by my father, and I've switched to Fenix lights.... cheaper/smaller... and Damn rugged... easily as good as surefire's offerings... My pocket light is still a 6p though... |
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You may consider our Elzetta ZFL-M60 Weapon-Grade Lights with Malkoff LED technology.
Like everything we sell, the Elzetta ZFL-M60 is Made in the USA and built to last. 
www.ELZETTA.com |
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I have a G2 LED in a Vltor scout mount that is great.
My next light will be a TLR-1. I dont care about lighting up the next county, just illuminating my general area is all thats needed. IMO, anything over 150 lumens (concentrated in a small area) is too much unless you are hunting varmints.
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Anybody use the Primary Arms light? I used one for a night match where we were shooting 150+ yards in the dark, while it was raining. It was great. For any ordinary, indoor use though you don't need anything nearly that big or bright. I usually use a TLR-1 and that has worked well in various classes and matches shot indoors in the dark. |
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I bought a Coleman 75 lumen flashlight from Wal-Mart after seeing a review on it on YouTube. I liked it so much, that shortly after buying it, I said that it would be the light that I put on my A4 clone (this was before I even started buying parts for the gun itself). It uses three AAA batteries, has an aluminum housing, on/off switch on the bottom, and has a lifetime LED bulb. It is the single brightest and most well-constructed flashlight I've ever owned. I bought some scope rings of eBay and modded them to fit the flashlight. Some may say it's cheap, but I love it! I love it some much, that I bought another after I mounted this one. Oh yeah, and it was only $18
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc145/dieselpowrguy85/AR-15/100_3695.jpg ...Damn 
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A common misconception is that lumens are a measure of "brightness". Rather than measuring brightness (or, luminous intensity, which is measured by the candela), the lumen is a measure of luminous flux, the total amount of light captured by the eye.
Therefore saying, "X-lumens is too bright" is a categorical error. X-lumens concentrated in a small area may be bright while the same X-lumens distributed over a large area will be relatively dim. Wikipedia has a good explanation here. Look for a Light that controls its output with the proper throw and spill for your intended application. |
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I bought a Coleman 75 lumen flashlight from Wal-Mart after seeing a review on it on YouTube. I liked it so much, that shortly after buying it, I said that it would be the light that I put on my A4 clone (this was before I even started buying parts for the gun itself). It uses three AAA batteries, has an aluminum housing, on/off switch on the bottom, and has a lifetime LED bulb. It is the single brightest and most well-constructed flashlight I've ever owned. I bought some scope rings of eBay and modded them to fit the flashlight. Some may say it's cheap, but I love it! I love it some much, that I bought another after I mounted this one. Oh yeah, and it was only $18
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc145/dieselpowrguy85/AR-15/100_3695.jpg ...Damn
Gotta do what you gotta do
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Hey guys I got's a question for you... I just got off the phone with surefire, and they told me that the ONLY lights that could be mounted on a rifle are the M2, M3, M4 and all the actual weapons lights. They told me that the G6 or any of the hand-held flashlights would not be a good choice, due to being unable to sustain the recoil. But, I see a bunch of the 'hand-held" lights mounted on rifles (non-weapon lights according to surefire). So who's right (I'm pretty damn confused)? LED lamps are durable as hell, especially the Malkoff devices, I've fired well over 3000 rds with this Surefire mounted with absolutely no problems. If you're worried about it you can buy a shock-absorbing bezel, but as long as you're running a quality LED lamp, it's pointless IMO. |
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Quoted: I just ordered the surefire g2 led and larue 606 mount. Anybody have any input on that setup? You'll like it. I've got mine on the top rail offset to the right and it's in pretty much the perfect position for me. I like being able to quickly take the light off for transport. I may upgrade to an M300A eventually, but there's nothing wrong with a G2 LED. |
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I just ordered the surefire g2 led and larue 606 mount. Anybody have any input on that setup? You'll like it. I've got mine on the top rail offset to the right and it's in pretty much the perfect position for me. I like being able to quickly take the light off for transport. I may upgrade to an M300A eventually, but there's nothing wrong with a G2 LED. Thanks! That's exactly how I was going to mount it. Or maybe on the right side sticking up. I wanted the offset but not sticking down. I wanted the QD so I can take it off for 3 gun matches. Thanks again for the reply. |
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I'm using a SureFire 6PL in a Viking Tactics mount. My VFG is a KAC. The combo works flawlessly!
Lots of rounds downrange. Never a single problem. One of these days I will upgrade my LED module to a Malkoff. 
. That CS rep from SureFire either doesn't know what they are talking about. Or, they are instructed to say that crap for liability reasons. Whatever the case may be.. |
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Anybody use the Primary Arms light? I used one for a night match where we were shooting 150+ yards in the dark, while it was raining. It was great. For any ordinary, indoor use though you don't need anything nearly that big or bright. I usually use a TLR-1 and that has worked well in various classes and matches shot indoors in the dark. Thanks for the info! |
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What do you guys think of the surefire 660 classic light? Can it be modified to tail-cap switch only (no external tape switch)? I like the 660 with Malkoff M60. I also replace the Shock Isolated bezel with a 6P bezel and you will not have any problems using a tail-cap switch. |
I bought an Elzetta ZFL-M60
The light body(host) is a TANK. I have looked, and looked at lights. And I think I could say this has to be one of the most robust lights i have seen. The mode control is very simple to use. The throw/spill is incredible, and the light looks good to boot. It's mounted in a VTAC. I wasn't sure about the mount at first, as it seemed to big. Once I got it tightened down, it's GTG. For reference, and curiosity sake, i just ordered a Solarforce L2(Surefire Clone). I have heard good things about them(for ChiCom junk). I bought it just to see how they compare. It will go on my MP15-22, when done. If I like it, I will buy another for work. For weapons light Elzetta all the way. |
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What do you guys think of the surefire 660 classic light? Can it be modified to tail-cap switch only (no external tape switch)? I like the 660 with Malkoff M60. I also replace the Shock Isolated bezel with a 6P bezel and you will not have any problems using a tail-cap switch. If you want one, buy it. But what you are essentially buying is a SureFire 6P body. A M2 Shock isolated Bezel. P60 & P61 Lamp Assemblies. A basic mount, and a tape switch for $360!! You could buy a SureFire 6P/6PL/G2/G2L, a mount from Viking Tactics/VLTOR/etc, a tape switch, (a M2 bezel if you want, though it's not required), and have the same thing for WAY less money. Heck, you could also add your favorite brand of drop-in module [*ahem* Malkoff], and still be way ahead... |
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