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Posted: 6/24/2009 11:25:53 AM EDT
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Good for a weapons light? Opinions please.
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a std. G2? imo: "NO"
i'd advise you upgrade your std G2 w/ a Z17 shock isolated bezzel...and even then, its a decent weapons mounted light for short ranges teh surefire bulbs, as is, esp in modles like the G2 are NOT suited for the vibrations and hard uses of a weapon mounted light (FWIW: i've broken more than a few of the P60 lamps in various G2s/6Ps that did not have a shock bezzle) upgrading to the LED not only would get rid of most of the bulb breaking problems and provide greater batt life and light, but there are a couple drawbacks (such as contact points, heat buildup, etc) |
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After the G2 and a good mount your getting close to the price range of the Streamlight TLR-1. Check it out, higher output and IMO one of the best deals around for a great weapon light.
Streamlight TLR-1
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After the G2 and a good mount your getting close to the price range of the Streamlight TLR-1. Check it out, higher output and IMO one of the best deals around for a great weapon light. Streamlight TLR-1 http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q318/positiverate13/image.jpg
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a std. G2? imo: "NO" i'd advise you upgrade your std G2 w/ a Z17 shock isolated bezzel...and even then, its a decent weapons mounted light for short ranges teh surefire bulbs, as is, esp in modles like the G2 are NOT suited for the vibrations and hard uses of a weapon mounted light (FWIW: i've broken more than a few of the P60 lamps in various G2s/6Ps that did not have a shock bezzle) upgrading to the LED not only would get rid of most of the bulb breaking problems and provide greater batt life and light, but there are a couple drawbacks (such as contact points, heat buildup, etc) My findings have been very different. I have had a G2 on my weapon for over a year and its been great. I have it mounted in a 1" scope ring. I haven't had any problems related to recoil abuse and not only that but I have not had to change the batteries yet either. It illuminates really well. I can light up my neighbors house across the street about 50m away which is plenty far enough for what I need it for. |
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My findings have been very different. I have had a G2 on my weapon for over a year and its been great. I have it mounted in a 1" scope ring. I haven't had any problems related to recoil abuse and not only that but I have not had to change the batteries yet either. It illuminates really well. I can light up my neighbors house across the street about 50m away which is plenty far enough for what I need it for. Same here. Before the TLR1, I ran a G2. With the shock isolated bezel, clicker tail cap, and batteries taped together to reduce battery bounce, I never had a problem. |
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After the G2 and a good mount your getting close to the price range of the Streamlight TLR-1. Check it out, higher output and IMO one of the best deals around for a great weapon light. Streamlight TLR-1 http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q318/positiverate13/image.jpg Exactly. I used to sorta be a Surefire fanboy. And have about 6 I think. But the TLR-1 I have is brighter than both the 6P LED, and the G2 LED I have. Which are in turn brighter than the standard, expensive, fragile, incandescant bulbs of the standard 6P and G2. |
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G2 makes a decent weapon light, best with the LED upgrade though.
I use a 6P on my carbine, very happy with it. ETA: wait a minute. One big drawback to the G2 as a weaponlight, and it's one reason I use my 6P on there instead of my G2. The G2, at least the one I have (bought several years ago), does not have a "lockout tailcap" the way my 6P does. With the 6P, I can twist the tailcap back to where it will NOT turn on if I choose..................with my G2, can't do that. To me this is damn important in a weaponlight. I like to be able to keep it from accidentally being flashed, if I so choose....................without going to the trouble of removing batteries. |
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G2 makes a decent weapon light, best with the LED upgrade though. I use a 6P on my carbine, very happy with it. ETA: wait a minute. One big drawback to the G2 as a weaponlight, and it's one reason I use my 6P on there instead of my G2. The G2, at least the one I have (bought several years ago), does not have a "lockout tailcap" the way my 6P does. With the 6P, I can twist the tailcap back to where it will NOT turn on if I choose..................with my G2, can't do that. To me this is damn important in a weaponlight. I like to be able to keep it from accidentally being flashed, if I so choose....................without going to the trouble of removing batteries. You can do this with the current G2, at least the one I have. I do the same thing so it does not accidentally turn on in the case. |
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If you can scrape up the funds go for the G2LED... Or like I said, buy a Surefire 6P (non led) and get a Malkoff M60 drop-in LED lamp, you will not be disappointed. Malkoff M60 |
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You can also check out the VTAC L4 light from Viking Tactics if you want a little more light than a G2LED. Brighter than a G2L, but costs around $170 with the mount. See here:
http://www.vikingtactics.com/prod_vtac_lightmount.html The G2L combinged with a VTAC lightmount is probably the most inexpensive, but still reliable, light combo available. The TLR-1 is a great light, but I prefer the tailcap over the levers, very possibly because that is what I learned to use and I'm comfortable with it. |
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The G2, at least the one I have (bought several years ago), does not have a "lockout tailcap" the way my 6P does. With the 6P, I can twist the tailcap back to where it will NOT turn on if I choose..................with my G2, can't do that. Odd. I can loosen the tailcaps of both of my G2s and keep the light off, or twist them tighter and they will stay on.
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Yeah G2 and 6P bulb lamp light eat batteries if used as an always on light, they are best used as pulse lights. The G2 LED have much better run time and are more durable than the bulb lamp versions. +1, Plain and simple. Also, you can buy a pelican ral, mount, and pressure switch for about 10-15 bucks and it will work great with your G2. While both are very reliable and functional, if you go with an LED, it will pay for its self(depending on how often you use it) in about a year.... the normal g2 devours 123's and isn't quite as bright. I assure you that you won't be disapointed with either.... it even comes in a few colors!!!!1!!!11!! |
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The G2, at least the one I have (bought several years ago), does not have a "lockout tailcap" the way my 6P does. With the 6P, I can twist the tailcap back to where it will NOT turn on if I choose..................with my G2, can't do that. Odd. I can loosen the tailcaps of both of my G2s and keep the light off, or twist them tighter and they will stay on.
Maybe I am misunderstanding what your saying then. What I mean is that I can loosen the tail cap back far enough where it will still stay on the light but it will not turn on when I push the button. Then I can twist it on more to where I can turn it on by pushing the button or screw it on all they and have a constant on. Are you talking about something different? |
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Maybe I am misunderstanding what your saying then. What I mean is that I can loosen the tail cap back far enough where it will still stay on the light but it will not turn on when I push the button. Then I can twist it on more to where I can turn it on by pushing the button or screw it on all they and have a constant on. Are you talking about something different? Nope. What you just described is exactly what my G2s can do. |
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a std. G2? imo: "NO" i'd advise you upgrade your std G2 w/ a Z17 shock isolated bezzel...and even then, its a decent weapons mounted light for short ranges teh surefire bulbs, as is, esp in modles like the G2 are NOT suited for the vibrations and hard uses of a weapon mounted light (FWIW: i've broken more than a few of the P60 lamps in various G2s/6Ps that did not have a shock bezzle) upgrading to the LED not only would get rid of most of the bulb breaking problems and provide greater batt life and light, but there are a couple drawbacks (such as contact points, heat buildup, etc) My findings have been very different. I have had a G2 on my weapon for over a year and its been great. I have it mounted in a 1" scope ring. I haven't had any problems related to recoil abuse and not only that but I have not had to change the batteries yet either. It illuminates really well. I can light up my neighbors house across the street about 50m away which is plenty far enough for what I need it for. sure, i'm not saying that the G2 wont work in a lot of cases (i know lots of folks who havent had ANY problems)...i'm just saying that its not the best choice for the price necessarily, esp for a weapons mounted light i've broken several G2 bulbs (or had blow outs) simply from rough use (dropping on floors, falling out of trucks, etc), hence why i suggest the Z71 bezzel; replacing bulbs is costly enough...needing the bulb when you "need" your light is something else next, the plastic G2 body doesnt dissipate heat as well as the AL bodies, which is not usually a biggie, but can lead to faster overhead in the batts, etc as to tailcaps, current G2s/6Ps, etc have the lockout caps as you mentioned before, and imo is not a problem at all lastly, the fact that you have a G2 like light which puts out a decent amount of light is VERY well suited for most indoor application distances for IDing targets (or anything around 35 yards max imo), etc, yet imo, you are better suited in putitng a dedicated weapons light on a RIFLE to get more of the range and "firepower" from your rifle at night––at least 100+ lumens before buying a G2 to mount on my go-to rifle, i'd at least look to either the LED version, or as someone mentioned, the TLR-1 (the updated C4 version at that), which imo is a way better choice for a rifle mounted light (eventhough still not ideal); by the time the cost for a decent mount (say the Viking for $30 and a surefire G2 LED/6P for ~$40-70), then imo, i would just go ahead and opt for the TLR-1 C4 for ~$100 and have the option, which has more throw, lumens (less flood space h/w) and more compact as well as for it as a pistol light also) YMMV |
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a std. G2? imo: "NO" i'd advise you upgrade your std G2 w/ a Z17 shock isolated bezzel...and even then, its a decent weapons mounted light for short ranges teh surefire bulbs, as is, esp in modles like the G2 are NOT suited for the vibrations and hard uses of a weapon mounted light (FWIW: i've broken more than a few of the P60 lamps in various G2s/6Ps that did not have a shock bezzle) upgrading to the LED not only would get rid of most of the bulb breaking problems and provide greater batt life and light, but there are a couple drawbacks (such as contact points, heat buildup, etc) My findings have been very different. I have had a G2 on my weapon for over a year and its been great. I have it mounted in a 1" scope ring. I haven't had any problems related to recoil abuse and not only that but I have not had to change the batteries yet either. It illuminates really well. I can light up my neighbors house across the street about 50m away which is plenty far enough for what I need it for. sure, i'm not saying that the G2 wont work in a lot of cases (i know lots of folks who havent had ANY problems)...i'm just saying that its not the best choice for the price necessarily, esp for a weapons mounted light i've broken several G2 bulbs (or had blow outs) simply from rough use (dropping on floors, falling out of trucks, etc), hence why i suggest the Z71 bezzel; replacing bulbs is costly enough...needing the bulb when you "need" your light is something else next, the plastic G2 body doesnt dissipate heat as well as the AL bodies, which is not usually a biggie, but can lead to faster overhead in the batts, etc as to tailcaps, current G2s/6Ps, etc have the lockout caps as you mentioned before, and imo is not a problem at all lastly, the fact that you have a G2 like light which puts out a decent amount of light is VERY well suited for most indoor application distances for IDing targets (or anything around 35 yards max imo), etc, yet imo, you are better suited in putitng a dedicated weapons light on a RIFLE to get more of the range and "firepower" from your rifle at night––at least 100+ lumens before buying a G2 to mount on my go-to rifle, i'd at least look to either the LED version, or as someone mentioned, the TLR-1 (the updated C4 version at that), which imo is a way better choice for a rifle mounted light (eventhough still not ideal); by the time the cost for a decent mount (say the Viking for $30 and a surefire G2 LED/6P for ~$40-70), then imo, i would just go ahead and opt for the TLR-1 C4 for ~$100 and have the option, which has more throw, lumens (less flood space h/w) and more compact as well as for it as a pistol light also) YMMV I'll say it once more: Surefire 6P with Mallkoff M60, 240+ lumens for about $115, you can't beat that. The TLR-1 is only 135 lumens for $100, you do the math. |
| TNVC (see banners, top of page) Sells G2 or 6P with his upgraded light. Similar to the Malkoff. Pat Rogers ran 3 for 20k rounds each, no failures. I got one in a 6P, and will soon add a second in a G2. With the upgraded head and drop in bulb, the G2 is $109. 235 Lumens, nice spot, good spill. |
| I'm surprised no one has mentioned the three cell version of the G# (G3?) I can't remember what they call it. IMO they make great weapon lights. One thing to consider when talking about lumens or candle power is if you have a light that can set vampires on fire a mile away, when you touch it off in your house at night you will loose all night vision for a while. Then if you don't find what you are looking for and have to search other rooms or outside, you are about blind in between pulses. I just don't prefer a super bright light for a weapons light. The G2's non LED are about right for me. They will still blind someone who gets them shined them in their eyes just fine. |
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Odd. I can loosen the tailcaps of both of my G2s and keep the light off, or twist them tighter and they will stay on.

