User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 6/9/2009 11:51:33 AM EDT
[Last Edit: rizzo1318]
[#1]
Originally Posted By Booge:
I haven't been around this site for too long but I am just wondering what the requirements are for something being tacked??????? It must be useful, informative, and full of win. Just like this thread. |
|
|
|
USA
|
Posted: 6/11/2009 9:43:46 AM EDT
[#2]
My vote is full of win.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/13/2009 11:21:45 AM EDT
[#3]
This thread is full of win and needs to be tacked, IMHO!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/17/2009 8:53:51 PM EDT
[#4]
Bump, cause it's good.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/21/2009 8:50:57 PM EDT
[#5]
Concise and very informative for a n00b like myself.
+1 for a Sticky |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/30/2009 10:32:59 AM EDT
[#6]
Thanks for the votes for a tack.
I'm trying out a rig with a Cree LED lamp now. It seems to have better throw than the LED lamps I've tried before, but still not as much splash as I'd like. Maybe LEDs will be able to replace incandescents completely in the near future. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/30/2009 10:51:17 AM EDT
[#7]
Originally Posted By M4builder:
Thanks for the votes for a tack. I'm trying out a rig with a Cree LED lamp now. It seems to have better throw than the LED lamps I've tried before, but still not as much splash as I'd like. Maybe LEDs will be able to replace incandescents completely in the near future. The best balanced throw vs flood weaponlight I own is my x300, too many others make you think "Does this light even have a focusing reflector?" or you end up with a light sabre that has a beam about a foot wide for 60 yds. My absolute best LED light for light tone/temp, throw vs flood is my battered E1B backup that I used as a toughness demonstrator so hard and often that I managed to make its beam a bit more yellow than it was factory. (I do not offer this as a service  )
|
|
|
|
WA, USA
|
Posted: 6/30/2009 11:06:40 AM EDT
[#8]
Very nice, same thing I'm teaching my guys. Just better laid out and organized then my notes. Very nice.
TACK This please. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/30/2009 7:38:16 PM EDT
[#9]
Originally Posted By Taztwr: Very nice, same thing I'm teaching my guys. Just better laid out and organized then my notes. Very nice. TACK This please. By popular demand. |
|
|
|
NC, USA
|
Posted: 7/3/2009 11:32:43 PM EDT
[#10]
So . . . what's the difference for mounting lights on pistols? Forgive the noob question.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/4/2009 7:49:13 AM EDT
[#11]
For pistols, just stick with the under barrel mounted lights like the X300. The rest of the rules are the same.
I'd add a lanyard too, as retention with a pistol can be more difficult with handguns than carbines. |
|
|
|
NC, USA
|
Posted: 7/4/2009 11:03:52 AM EDT
[#12]
EXCELLENT read!! I have a nikon monarch mounted on my carbine and wondered about it's effectiveness at night. After some experimenting with an 80 lumen light and setting the scope to 2.5x, I found that it can be done. The light gathering capabilities of the scope, light up the reticle nicely. Would an eotech or such be better? Yes, but I punch paper and coyotes with it, so the traditional scope is what I need. Any thoughts on this arrangement would be appreciated. Thanks again for a great and informative read.
|
|
|
NJ, USA
|
Posted: 7/5/2009 3:47:49 PM EDT
[#13]
Thank you, great write-up.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/6/2009 1:14:57 PM EDT
[#14]
Originally Posted By TD_n_NC:
EXCELLENT read!! I have a nikon monarch mounted on my carbine and wondered about it's effectiveness at night. After some experimenting with an 80 lumen light and setting the scope to 2.5x, I found that it can be done. The light gathering capabilities of the scope, light up the reticle nicely. Would an eotech or such be better? Yes, but I punch paper and coyotes with it, so the traditional scope is what I need. Any thoughts on this arrangement would be appreciated. Thanks again for a great and informative read. If I had a dedicated outdoor critter slayer, I'd go as high in light power as the ranges dictated. 200-500 lumen lights would be good for around here in Middle KS. Good luck gettin' 'em 'yotes, 'ere smart critters. 
|
|
|
|
NC, USA
|
Posted: 7/7/2009 8:27:48 AM EDT
[#15]
Originally Posted By M4builder:
Originally Posted By TD_n_NC:
EXCELLENT read!! I have a nikon monarch mounted on my carbine and wondered about it's effectiveness at night. After some experimenting with an 80 lumen light and setting the scope to 2.5x, I found that it can be done. The light gathering capabilities of the scope, light up the reticle nicely. Would an eotech or such be better? Yes, but I punch paper and coyotes with it, so the traditional scope is what I need. Any thoughts on this arrangement would be appreciated. Thanks again for a great and informative read. If I had a dedicated outdoor critter slayer, I'd go as high in light power as the ranges dictated. 200-500 lumen lights would be good for around here in Middle KS. Good luck gettin' 'em 'yotes, 'ere smart critters. Thanks for the yote advice, but in this state, no artifical lights with white or red lenses are allowed. You can hunt them at night, but without the aid of lights.  I was leaning more at getting advice of using my Ar for double duty. I live in a very rural area (tobacco fields and cow pastures) and can see the benefits of having a light on an otherwise target/hunting rifle. I know that eotechs, aimpoints and acogs are the preferred sights of choice, so I was just wondering what you thought of using a traditional type scope set on the lowest setting, i.e, as with my Monarch, 2.5x, for the purposes mentioned in your article. Thanks.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/8/2009 7:49:19 AM EDT
[#16]
Using the weapon for double duty isn't a bad thing. The light is a great aiming aide. The scope probably won't come into play in a HD role. At those ranges natural pointing is going to be your primary means of shooting. The scope may be useful if you have the time to get yourself into a static defensive position. However, magnification makes you a bit slower to get on target at close ranges.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/20/2009 8:22:31 AM EDT
[#17]
After testing the Cree LEDs I think I'll be sticking to the incandescent lights.
There just isnt enough splash for my purposes. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/22/2009 6:09:57 PM EDT
[#18]
Thanks for sharing the information. This will help me make a more informed decision for my light purchase.
Gene |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/9/2009 2:06:32 PM EDT
[#19]
A beauty of a thread. Thanks!
|
|
|
|
TX, USA
|
Posted: 9/16/2009 5:01:58 PM EDT
[#20]
Can we discuss color a little more? You use green and blue for id'ing each other but is there much of a benefit of one over the other? you also said your eye is more sensitive to green, this sounds less preferable but maybe not. i use a red one on mine because it's what i had.
|
|
|
VA, USA
|
Posted: 9/18/2009 11:05:05 PM EDT
[#21]
+1!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/19/2009 9:05:52 AM EDT
[Last Edit: M4builder]
[#22]
Originally Posted By sredish:
Can we discuss color a little more? You use green and blue for id'ing each other but is there much of a benefit of one over the other? you also said your eye is more sensitive to green, this sounds less preferable but maybe not. i use a red one on mine because it's what i had. The human eye detects colors at different sensitivities. The experiments with red vs. green lasers have shown that a person can detect a green laser at farther distances & lower intensities than the red. ( the reason for using a red lens to read maps when you don't want to attract attention) So, logic tells that a green filter will provide more detectable light to your eye than the red filter. You should try this; Place a red filter on your light and have someone play "bad guy" while you move about clearing the house. then do the same with the green. Then consider the contrast/detail each gave you, and discuss the matter of detecting your movement with the "bad guy" and determine which will work better for you. Green works better from your perspective, red hides you better from their perspective. Blue blends better with moonlight, and LEDs will do similar....while providing a good lighting level for indoor use. I use the green & blue to give an ID, and to still have enough light transfer to get good splash in an area. Red is used on my hand-held light. Try it for yourself and decide what you think for yourself. Then give your feedback here, please. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/21/2009 5:18:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: EternalVigilance]
[#23]
I was thinking of ordering one of these
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=20&t=394099 or a Malkoff M60 and dropping it in a SureFire 6P....and then putting it on my home defense carbine (which is currently sporting a plain old G2 LED). Supposudely it is 200-250 lumens. Are you saying that this is too bright for indoors, and that it is overkill? I really like the 120 lumens of my X300...I would like to up the brightness on my 6P from 80 lumens, put it on that carbine, and then do something else with the G2 LED...plus I thought that the drop-in sounded like a cool toy  .
Bad idea? Sure seems like that would disorient the piss out of someone if you shined it in their face. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2009 10:44:53 PM EDT
[#24]
Originally Posted By EternalVigilance:
I was thinking of ordering one of these http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=20&t=394099 or a Malkoff M60 and dropping it in a SureFire 6P....and then putting it on my home defense carbine (which is currently sporting a plain old G2 LED). Supposudely it is 200-250 lumens. Are you saying that this is too bright for indoors, and that it is overkill? I really like the 120 lumens of my X300...I would like to up the brightness on my 6P from 80 lumens, put it on that carbine, and then do something else with the G2 LED...plus I thought that the drop-in sounded like a cool toy .
Bad idea? Sure seems like that would disorient the piss out of someone if you shined it in their face. Get it. Then flash a wall in your house when its dark (wait a few minutes for your eyes to adjust), Then decide if you want to put a filter on it. |
|
|
|
IRQ
|
Posted: 9/29/2009 3:47:54 PM EDT
[#25]
Could you go more in-depth on lasers? Or your thoughts on using the splash from a green laser to strobe, rather than a flashlight?
I've seen and used some green lasers that have a ridiculous amount of splash, and have used them for nighttime illumination, rather than aiming, at times. |
|
|
OH, USA
|
Posted: 10/31/2009 1:37:05 AM EDT
[#26]
I was also going to ask about doing an article like this on lasers. I have an Aimshot 12mw green laser mounted on my AR and would like imput on proper use.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/11/2009 11:19:08 AM EDT
[#27]
Originally Posted By abadrs:
I was also going to ask about doing an article like this on lasers. I have an Aimshot 12mw green laser mounted on my AR and would like imput on proper use. That can be done. Most of the rules are the same as far as when/how to turn it on. The thing that makes the laser a bit more complicated is the mounting location's relation to your zero. If you place the laser at 3 or 9 'o clock, your lateral zero will be off exponentially as the range past the zero point increases. 12 or 6 'o clock locations lave the same issue for vertical zero. I would recommend a 15-25 yard laser zero for HD purposes. This will keep the dot/impact points pretty close out to 30-50 yards. For example; A laser mounted 1" from bore center at 3 'o clock, zeroed for 25 yards will be- 1" right at the muzzle, dead on at 25 yards, and 1" left at 50 yards. ...you get the idea. As far as switches, mounts, color, and cost; most of the same applies to lasers as it does lights. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/11/2009 11:24:37 AM EDT
[#28]
One additional thought...
If someone would make a front sight tower with a laser projecting from just below the front sight post, the zero could be set much like the 50/200 meter IBSZ. This could be useful for quick shots as well as a help range determination with optics. hmmmmm.....wonder if someone would pick up that ball for me. |
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 11/16/2009 4:32:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Cessna421]
[#29]
msloshooter,
You brought up an excelent point that has not gotten enough attention. Not only must you ID the BG but you need to ID his intent (in some states like mine) or make shure you actually kill him! So in court he cant say "I was unarmed and just needed a place to sleep" Be very carefull here in Cali. My plan is to tend to operate with strobe, move then light on and yell all the cusswords in the book at him as I tell him to raise his hands against the wall. Then stand there in my skivvies with the weapon/light on him while the cops arive. However if he is armed then I will shoot (looks better in court if they have a weapon when you shoot them). |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/2/2009 6:54:39 PM EDT
[#30]
Nice job.
|
|
|
|
PA, USA
|
Posted: 1/29/2010 11:16:10 AM EDT
[#31]
Excellent information.
Next time someone says "how hard is it to use a flashlite" I will ask if they are using it properly and direct them to this thread. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/2/2010 2:52:13 PM EDT
[#32]
Great information
I have been wanting to buy a light for my carbine and didnt really have a clue of what to buy. After reading this i think I will be purchaseing a 65-120 lumen light probaly a surefire G2 or 6p Now how to mount it  so many decisions.
|
|
|
|
OH, USA
|
Posted: 2/5/2010 3:32:41 PM EDT
[#33]
Great write-up. Excellent info.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/14/2010 9:50:46 PM EDT
[#34]
Excellent info!
|
|
|
|
KS, USA
|
Posted: 5/21/2010 5:51:23 AM EDT
[#35]
I'm off at the ranges...be back soon.
|
|
|
KS, USA
|
Posted: 7/9/2010 9:26:25 AM EDT
[#36]
I'm Back!
I've tested some of the new LEDs....I'm changing my stance on LED lights, the new lights from Surefire are awesome. |
|
|
OH, USA
|
Posted: 7/22/2010 9:50:54 AM EDT
[#37]
Originally Posted By M4builder:
One additional thought... If someone would make a front sight tower with a laser projecting from just below the front sight post, the zero could be set much like the 50/200 meter IBSZ. This could be useful for quick shots as well as a help range determination with optics. hmmmmm.....wonder if someone would pick up that ball for me. A bit like the X300/X400 forward of the FSB o mount on the DD 12.0 rail that so many people hate the looks of. The X400 operating upsidedown would put the laser too far above the bore line. A good low pro laser mounted there might work... |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/13/2010 4:36:09 PM EDT
[#38]
Thanks for the info. Very helpful stuff.
|
|
|
|
GA, USA
|
Posted: 8/16/2010 9:43:49 AM EDT
[#39]
Excellent... would read again.
|
|
|
MT, USA
|
Posted: 9/12/2010 4:55:56 PM EDT
[#40]
Originally Posted By M4builder:
I'm Back! I've tested some of the new LEDs....I'm changing my stance on LED lights, the new lights from Surefire are awesome. Anxiously waiting more of your thoughts on these. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/16/2010 10:30:45 PM EDT
[#41]
The Surefire LED head I'm trying out is really impressing me. It carries a lot farther than any LED I've used before, & this thing really dazzles the eyes.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/16/2010 10:34:09 PM EDT
[#42]
Originally Posted By NVBGear:
Originally Posted By M4builder:
One additional thought... If someone would make a front sight tower with a laser projecting from just below the front sight post, the zero could be set much like the 50/200 meter IBSZ. This could be useful for quick shots as well as a help range determination with optics. hmmmmm.....wonder if someone would pick up that ball for me. A bit like the X300/X400 forward of the FSB o mount on the DD 12.0 rail that so many people hate the looks of. The X400 operating upsidedown would put the laser too far above the bore line. A good low pro laser mounted there might work... ...like one of those "matchbox" lasers in green. I may have to try something like this out. Thanks for the thought. |
|
|
|
AZ, USA
|
Posted: 10/8/2010 10:35:40 PM EDT
[#43]
Great topic it is realy good for those who a. want to get a wepon light or b. those who have one and just want to know when and why to use it.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/9/2010 2:54:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: CLICKBANGBANG]
[#44]
Thanks for the article. Lots of things to ponder.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/26/2010 11:08:26 AM EDT
[#45]
Has anyone tried the Green Laser illuminator from BSA yet?
I would, but it seems a bit pricy for a BSA product. |
|
|
|
IN, USA
|
Posted: 1/15/2011 1:18:42 PM EDT
[#46]
Great write up, very informative. Gave me a lot of knowledge and beacuse of your write up, I plan on taking a special class/course here in Indiana that teaches these tactics. Thanks man
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/1/2011 10:58:57 AM EDT
[#47]
I really like coming back to reread this every now and again once I have my gear set up. Makes me re-evaluate what i have and if it works for my mindset and requirements!
|
|
|
|
OH, USA
|
Posted: 2/10/2011 9:39:51 AM EDT
[#48]
Damn you! Now I'm getting a light.
Excellent write up btw. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/14/2011 8:46:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FMJ]
[#49]
Originally Posted By M4builder:
Originally Posted By FMJ:
I dont care about try to blind the BG ID and shoot FORGOT Very nice write up / topic If you have your weapon aimed at the BG, and your light is on, he will be blind. . Depends on the subject position I dont care for the BLIND word
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/14/2011 8:53:19 PM EDT
[#50]
Originally Posted By NVBGear:
Originally Posted By M4builder:
Originally Posted By FMJ:
I dont care about try to blind the BG ID and shoot FORGOT Very nice write up / topic If you have your weapon aimed at the BG, and your light is on, he will be blind. Now, you realize your wife or child is behind him. You can't take the shot, but at least he is limited in his effectiveness until you can re-orient your position so that your family member is out of the impact zone. The BG might have lost the ability to make out details about you, but he is NOT blinded enough to be unable to shoot /charge you. If you want to have this demonstrated. You need a range area you can shoot in the dark. IDPA target, target stand, the brightest light you are comfortable with potentially shooting, and a buddy to turn the light on. Set the target up, tape the light to top of the stand beside where you staple the targets (this will approximate where your light would be in regards to your hide). Let your eyes night adjust and go stand back to the target at the 10 yard line, have your buddy turn the light on and aim it at the back of your head. (Have buddy get the hell away from the target stand). Drill start! You spin in place and shoot the target. Drill end. Go and look at the perforated target that would be you, and perhaps mourn the light you shot. The time difference between doing this spin and shoot in the day light and the described light drill is fractions of a second. Accuracy is down, but still man killing good. There is no hand held light that will blind a BG into ineffectiveness, the best it will do it cost him the details of where you are. So if you lock your light on and are painting a target, you must be ready to fire instantly. Because as soon as you lock your light on, you are a target and the BG may not have seen the Surefire or Gladius strobe ad so he doesn't realize he should be curled into a little ball screaming "Teh light it burns!" He might just blaze away at your light, or charge your light. +1 Pretty much how I see it |
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
