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Posted: 7/4/2012 9:34:24 AM EDT
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I'm thinking about adding a Magpul ASAP to my BCM Lower.
I have a few questions. I watched a few youtube videos and think I can do it but one problem is a I don't have a castle wrench. Anyone have a link to where I can get a cheap one? I only have one AR so I rather not spend $40 for a one time use tool. Also how hard will it be to get off. It looks like mine was staked to the plate. If I do get the nut off will I have to restake it or can I just use locktite and call it good? 
I thought about buying the DD EZ Carbine QD sling attachment and calling it a day 
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Here's a link to a cheaper one on Brownells:
Combo Wrench I don't have any experience with it but it looks like it would work. Re-staking is easy. Once you get the ASAP installed just use a hammer and punch (preferably one that has a sharp point) or an automatic center punch. I have been using the auto punch lately and I prefer it. Edit: spelling |
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DO NOT LOCK-TITE IT! You will be sorry later, because you THINK this is the only change you are going to make, but that is how it all starts. First you change this, then that, then something else, then it hits you, "Hell, I'm wasting money changing all this out. I'm going to build it the way I want it from scratch..." And so it begins. Get the tool, a good one, you are going to need it later, and DO NOT USE LOCK-TITE, not here anyway.
The dead giveaway that you are not going to quit here is that BCM sticker on the stock. If you are the type to put company logos on your stock you are most certainly the type that will sooner or later change out damned near every part on your rifle for something else. |
Lol i just stuck the sticker on there. I do plan on changing the stock though  The more I think about it I'm probably going the easy way and just buy the DD ez one. I'll be spending about the same since i'll need the wrench and I don't do carbine classes or anything.
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Quoted:
Did have another question. If I use a Tapco Wrench to remove the castle nut. Can I just turn the castle nut and sheer off the staking or should I use something to try and push the staking back first? I picked up a Rock River wrench for $6 At brownells, I had no trouble removing or reinstalling any castle nuts with it |
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Did have another question. If I use a Tapco Wrench to remove the castle nut. Can I just turn the castle nut and sheer off the staking or should I use something to try and push the staking back first? I picked up a Rock River wrench for $6 At brownells, I had no trouble removing or reinstalling any castle nuts with it Thanks. That Tapco is only $9 @ midway and I plan on picking up some other stuff. Was your castle nut staked? I think that's the only real problem I'm worried about and would I just need to just turn it and shear them off or use a flat head and try to push the metal back. I plan to pick up a cheap auto punch at harbor freight to restake it if I do go this route |
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Can I just turn the castle nut and sheer off the staking or should I use something to try and push the staking back first? Yes, just use the wrench to shear off the staking. I wouldn't bother with trying to push back the staking. Most staked castle nuts come off relatively easily with just a wrench. |
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Can I just turn the castle nut and sheer off the staking or should I use something to try and push the staking back first? Yes, just use the wrench to shear off the staking. I wouldn't bother with trying to push back the staking. Most staked castle nuts come off relatively easily with just a wrench. Thanks. Now the decision is do I want to do a plate or get something like the M.A.D or DD QD sling adapter. |
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Thanks. Now the decision is do I want to do a plate or get something like the M.A.D or DD QD sling adapter. For QD end plates, here are some ideas: Daniel Defense Noveske Troy I have the Noveske on one of my rifles. The only problem with it is it doesn't allow my CTR to collapse fully with the QD connector I have, but there are supposed to be lower profile QD connectors that don't have this problem. I don't run my stock fully collapsed, so it doesn't affect me. |
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Quoted:
DO NOT LOCK-TITE IT! You will be sorry later, because you THINK this is the only change you are going to make, but that is how it all starts. First you change this, then that, then something else, then it hits you, "Hell, I'm wasting money changing all this out. I'm going to build it the way I want it from scratch..." And so it begins. Get the tool, a good one, you are going to need it later, and DO NOT USE LOCK-TITE, not here anyway. The dead giveaway that you are not going to quit here is that BCM sticker on the stock. If you are the type to put company logos on your stock you are most certainly the type that will sooner or later change out damned near every part on your rifle for something else. Loctite is a brand and they make many products, not Threadlocker Red 271 which is designed for permanent assembly. You could use Threadlocker Blue 242 which according to Loctite: is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing.
OP, you could get away with using Loctite blue but it's really only designed for a fastener 1/4" to 3/4" in diameter. The receiver extension and castle nut are much larger than that so it's really hard to guess how much you really need. I've seen people recommend only one drop on the threads and others recommend three. The Army armorer's manual calls for the endplate to be staked so i would go with that if you were worried about it. As far as a wrench, I bought a cheapo $6 castle nut wrench from Brownells that has worked fine for me. |
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Thanks for all the input guys. I decided to go ahead and give the ASAP a try over using one of the clamp on one. I bought a wrench and it was hard as a mofo getting that staked castle nut off. I scratched it up a little but not too bad. Once I got it off switching end plate was easy. I haven't staked it yet though. I may pick up a new castle nut since they're cheap and slap it on and stake it. I got to get a punch anyway. I'll probably pick up a cheap auto center punch from harbor freight to do it with. I do have some blue loctite but don't think i'll need it.
I bought a MS3 sling & MSA for my MOE handguards. I tell ya. I see what you guys mean by using a sling. Rifle feels a lot more sturdy. |
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