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Posted: 12/10/2016 6:50:27 PM EDT
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I see more and more ads for various bubble levels to attach to your scope, or to your rail. I can see these being useful and all that, but I have a couple of questions about them.
First and foremost, what's the best way to ensure that your level is aligned with your scope? (That might overflow into a question about scope mounting, but I am going to go ahead and ask.) There are scope-mounted $200+ levels and scope-mounted $10 levels that look like they're pretty much identical except for fancy brand names, and I can't see how a simple spirit level (the level itself, anyway) needs to have a big name on it to just be a spirit level. Are the scope mounting rings on these things so complex that it really matters who makes the mounting part? Is there a reason to go more expensive than the $10 units? Is a Vortex scope level (about $40) going to offer a lot more (and of what?) than a $10 level? What might a $200 scope level offer that Vortex doesn't? |
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IMO, the cant of your rifle isn't very significant at the distances you would typically shoot .223/5.56...therefore I wouldn't bother with an anti-cant device (bubble level) on an AR15.
Once you're past 500-600 yards, then it definitely will come into play.  At 1000 yards, if you're canted, you're going to have a big miss. Some of the more expensive anti-cant devices purport to use fluid that is quicker to react than others, and some use some kind of indicator media other than an air bubble....hence more accurate. Accuracy 1st is among the more expensive, and preferred among many long distance shooters. I believe David Tubb makes one that is well respected also. Personally, I've never seen the need to spend more than the Vortex models, but then I'm not Tier-one. ETA: As far as mounting, I use a level on the action raceway (bolt rifle) to level the rifle. I then level the mount and the scope to the rifle with a 2nd level, and then when they are all level, I lock down the anti-cant device so that it's bubble also reads as level.  Takes <5 minutes. Some prefer bubbles that are easier to read, but are larger....some prefer not to have their line-of-sight interrupted by the larger models, and choose a slim line unit so as to facilitate faster target acquisition. I tend to mount mine as far forward as possible on the optic so that I can make out the bubble without losing my cheek weld...I simply shift my focus slightly from my strong side eye on the reticle to my weak side eye. |
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I'm thinking of this for my "long range" AR; a rifle with a 20" barrel and the best scope I can afford, so avoiding a cant that would open groups at 300 or 400 yards is definitely worth my time.
In that $10-$200 price range of scope levels, I've found pretty much every variation of bubble placement and scope attachment at every price tier, so at the moment I'm just trying to figure out if I need to spend extra money, or if something like Vortex's levels is worth bothering with. It's looking a lot like some sort of level will be beneficial, but I'm still in the research phase as far as what type and which one is concerned. How do you verify your scope reticle is level when you mount the scope? I've used a level on the rifle's rail and a level on the scope body, while verifying the horizontal part of the reticle is (as well as I can see) level, but I've felt this was iffy at best. |
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Quoted:
I'm thinking of this for my "long range" AR; a rifle with a 20" barrel and the best scope I can afford, so avoiding a cant that would open groups at 300 or 400 yards is definitely worth my time. In that $10-$200 price range of scope levels, I've found pretty much every variation of bubble placement and scope attachment at every price tier, so at the moment I'm just trying to figure out if I need to spend extra money, or if something like Vortex's levels is worth bothering with. It's looking a lot like some sort of level will be beneficial, but I'm still in the research phase as far as what type and which one is concerned. How do you verify your scope reticle is level when you mount the scope? I've used a level on the rifle's rail and a level on the scope body, while verifying the horizontal part of the reticle is (as well as I can see) level, but I've felt this was iffy at best. On AR's I use feeler gauges under the flat of the scopes turret housing to level it with the rail, and lock it down, but not all the way tight.  Then I hang a plumb line, and with a level on top of the scope's turret indicating level, I check the vertical line of the reticle against the plumb line, and then lock it down all the way (with appropriate torque).  If you have an I.O.T.A. for your scope, it makes it a lot easier to see the plumb line at inside-household distances. I've only ever had one optic where the reticle wasn't level with the turret housing, so it happens but not all the time. |
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The best way to make sure your level is correct is to first make sure your reticle is plumb, once plumb carefully mount the level.
I use a plumb line to make my reticle plumb while shouldering the rifle, don't really care if the rifle is level or not. If it is a bubble level mount it so the bubble touches one of the centering lines when the reticle is plumb for exact repeatability. It easier to precisely place the edge of the bubble on a line than centering between the lines. Once you are satisfied with the mounting you then go out and shoot a tall target test to test the tracking of the scope and to ensure that your level is correct with the reticle. If your scope is not plumb and/or the level is not correct to the reticle the shots will go to the left or right of your plumb line on the tall target. Bubble levels(well the $40 Vortex) are super accurate compared to a shooters needs even if you only manage to keep the bubble between the lines. I tested two of mine here Bubble level accuracy. The $10 levels have the vial come loose under recoil or the cast aluminum breaks in my experience. I have currently 7,928 rounds through my bolt gun with this $40 Vortex level, it is still solid, I would recommend it. I like the offset so I can view the level with my weak eye while still looking through the scope. Don't get a rail level you want a scope mounted level so it can be adjusted perfectly one time and then the level can stay with the scope where ever you put it, the scope reticle is what need to be plumb not the rifle(within reason). The only real benefits to the non air bubble type is that the air bubble can break into two which a slight jiggle fixes, the ball type wont do that obviously, and the curved tube ball type allow you to hold the rifle at a specific cant if needed. What ever expansion or contraction of the air bubble or fluid that may occur I'm sure is inconsequential. Tall target test.  Scope Tracking: Tall Target Test | Applied Ballistics with Bryan Litz |
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Thanks, Popinfresh. I've spent more time looking at the cheap levels, and when you get to looking at the pictures closely, you can see slop or poor finishing in some of them. On the other hand, Vortex has a great reputation, and their levels aren't even "expensive." And comparing the level vials in the Vortex products and some of the others, you can see how other levels use generic vials with pretty broad spaces between the lines and the bubble - not so the Vortex levels.
Your linked thread is quite interesting. Since I'm not looking at (at the moment) using a level for anything more stout than 5.56mm, I'm not worried about bubble break up. That's a big deal with some equipment, particularly devices that undergo high frequency vibration, so I was already aware of the issue, but I'll keep my eyes open for ball levels if and when... |
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Quoted:
Thanks, Popinfresh. I've spent more time looking at the cheap levels, and when you get to looking at the pictures closely, you can see slop or poor finishing in some of them. On the other hand, Vortex has a great reputation, and their levels aren't even "expensive." And comparing the level vials in the Vortex products and some of the others, you can see how other levels use generic vials with pretty broad spaces between the lines and the bubble - not so the Vortex levels. Your linked thread is quite interesting. Since I'm not looking at (at the moment) using a level for anything more stout than 5.56mm, I'm not worried about bubble break up. That's a big deal with some equipment, particularly devices that undergo high frequency vibration, so I was already aware of the issue, but I'll keep my eyes open for ball levels if and when... Bubble break up is not really an issue, it is a minor problem that is simply and quickly fixed with a jiggle. I can't recall if my .223 Vortex level bubble ever breaks up. Friday with my .308, shooting stiff 230gr loads it never broke up over 150 rounds, it is something that very seldom happens. Even if the bubble is split, keeping the edge of it on the line works to nearly the same level of accuracy. This was just the only negative I can think of for the Vortex so I mentioned it. To be clear, I don't know that the Vortex vials are any better, but I do know they are held in place better, I have had the cheap levels vials fall out, the Vortex are held in place with a snap ring. This doesn't have to be a precision instrument, it just has to stay put and not fall apart. The Vortex covers that, cheaper ones I've tried don't. This is what I am talking about mounting with the bubble on the line, just like this the reticle is plumb and when I shoot I will place the bubble on that line everytime to be perfectly accurate. When I did my test(linked above), I went from one line to the other and it was only about half a degree difference. 
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